Fusible Link Wire - Technical help please!

[FoMoCo17]

I have to replace several fusible links on my 1990 Mustang GT and was looking at Tmoss diagram located at:

http://mustangstock.com/wp-content/uploads/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

Is this diagram accurate in regard to the yellow wire coming from the starter relay (fender) to the four (4) fusible links. Three are supposed to be black and 16 gauge it states (circled) but the bottom one goes to a 18 gauge fusible link ... does this make sense??? The center two are labeled as 16 gauge wires running to 16 gauge fusible links and then to a 12 gauge wire. This make sense since the fusible link should be 2 sizes smaller. The last one is also 2 gauges small but is fed by a wire size that is different than the fusible link size ... though larger, I was wondering if this is an error and possibly the fusible link size is labeled wrongly. Since I want to replace this last link, I certainly want to put in the right size. If you notice the first fusible link connected to the yellow wire the wire is 18 gauge fed to an 18 gauge fusible link and protecting the 12 gauge wire (though shouldn't this be a 14 gauge wire on the other side of the 18 gauge fusible link? Thus, the 1st and 4th wires do not stick to theory or are in error. Can anyone with good technical wiring knowledge verify this diagram for sure??? I would like to put in the right size fusible links etc..

Also, does any required length of fusible wire (that comes in a roll) have to be used when replacing a fusible link??? I mean, do you just use as much as you need, or would an inch of the right size fusible link wire work as opposed to 15 inches. Would it burn out just the same???

Thank you for your help!!! possibly JRichter can help me here

 

[jrichker]

Use the same length fuseable link wire as the stock application.

 

[FoMoCo17]

JRichker,

First of all, always a pleasure! I love dealing with people that have good technical knowledge and information rather than BS. Anyway, I appreciate the good help you have provided to me in the posts I have put up.

Anyway, In the diagram that you posted, I wanted to snip out 2 of the links your diagram states are under the harness (actually mine were exposed from the factory. They have some melted clear goo around them so they have seen some heat. And 2 of these could have been responsible for my Code 96 problem so I wanted to replace them. Can I just snip them about an inch or two on each side of the actual link and splice in a new link from a spool of fusible link wire??? Didn't want to have to rebuild that whole yellow 4 to one connector since I think it is okay but will check. Wanted to do a clean job and not make it an ordeal so this would be the easiest. I look forward to your response!

I replaced the green fusible link with a 9 inch link with ring terminal last summer with a Pico brand link. And a few months later while moving wires around for other reasons, I noticed the insulation was cracked in 2 places so I must redo it again. Apparently, it was made with faulty insulation and guys are unloading them on Ebay (even though I bought it at a local auto store. Just want to do it right with the least amount of intrusion on the factory harness.

As always, THANK YOU!!!

 

[jrichker]

The proper way to replace the fuse links is to cut all of the old fulse link out, leaving only fresh copper wire to solder to. That way you are not soldering to something that will weaken when exposed to the heat required to solder wire.

 

[FoMoCo17]

How do you know what is part of the actual link? Is it just the fat piece in the wire? Or, does it extend outward from the fat black piece in the wire on both sides back into the harness for say a few inches on each side of the fat piece. In other words, is the actual link just the fat section encased in rubber with good wire on both sides which can be soldered to???

As always Thank you!

 

[jrichker]

The link is the different colored part of the wire. It may be larger in diameter and have different insulation. Cut out that section of the wire and you should be good.

 

[87_LX_5.0]

The fat rubber part is the insulation covering the factory connection between the wire and fusible links. You'll need to remove the rubber insulator to get to the wire.

 

[FoMoCo17]

Thanks guys, I was 99.9% sure it was under the fat part of the wire but just wanted to be sure so it is done right.

Found a plug with a cracked insulator in two places from the tip down to the base of the plug in two places ... I'm sure this was causing my detonation problems last Summer! And, I checked them .... must have been on the down side of the plug when installed. The simple things get you every time! At least I found it now before this Summer season!!!

 

[jamessims]

yellow wire fuse link

so what fuse link did you end up using between the starter solenoid and the yellow wire? i am having the same problem finding this info in the 4 ford service books i have here. none of them show anything

 

[Saleen0679]

The fusible link connecting the solenoid to the yellow wire is a 16 gauge link 9 inches long. If you have the Ford EVTM it will show the fusible link circuits in the power distribution diagrams.