Hey guys, I've got a question for ya. I have been getting an average of 11mpg in the city ever since I bought the car back in october. Since then, I have added a CAI, MAC o/r H pipe, and new plugs, wires, and dizzy cap, and replaced the 02 sensors. She should be running like a top here. However, the mileage it is getting sucks. I have 2.73 and a 5spd. I get bad mileage no matter how I drive the car. It does run rich, as I can smell it when I come to a stop, or start the car in the morning. I am thinkin its the fuel pressure regulator. Whattdya think? Any ideas on anything else?
Gas pig!!
- Thread starter MisterCMK
- Start date
illwood
Member
How many miles are on the car? My '94 gets me about 18mpg city with a little "spirited driving". Are you sure that you have a 2.73 rear? I was pretty sure that '94 GTs got 3.08 rears.
I'd start checking for leaks on my injectors and fuel rails if I were you (and maybe the rest of the fuel system). That would help explain both the smell and bad milage.
I'd start checking for leaks on my injectors and fuel rails if I were you (and maybe the rest of the fuel system). That would help explain both the smell and bad milage.
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $33.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $33.
jackchan
New Member
I'd check the themostat to make sure its getting hot enough! If someone replaceded it with a 170 degree or below it could be going in to choke loop and flooding! ............may not be your problem, but if I had to guess that would be my first guess! my car only gets 18-19 mpg on the hwy and I plan on changing mine out tonight for the same reason! I'll keep ya posted as to how it does...........
good luck
Jack
good luck
Jack
codes can be stored w/o triggering the CEL.
the SN guys bend over backwards, forwards and jump through rings of fire to run rich (the factory tune is lean - ping city) so i doubt you are truly running rich. remember, the 94+ puters will adapt to stoich at all times (WOT included). it is hard to run rich, even if you want to. often when sensors get out of calibration, they tend to run lean. cleaning the MAF, ECT, ACT, et al sensors can help. not your case though.
the lack of cats is probably making a little bit of a stink that you are not used to.
SN's have the same 8.8 that foxes do - same ratios were offered (2.72, 3.08 and 3.27 as an option for autos).
the SN guys bend over backwards, forwards and jump through rings of fire to run rich (the factory tune is lean - ping city) so i doubt you are truly running rich. remember, the 94+ puters will adapt to stoich at all times (WOT included). it is hard to run rich, even if you want to. often when sensors get out of calibration, they tend to run lean. cleaning the MAF, ECT, ACT, et al sensors can help. not your case though.
the lack of cats is probably making a little bit of a stink that you are not used to.
SN's have the same 8.8 that foxes do - same ratios were offered (2.72, 3.08 and 3.27 as an option for autos).
pull and cap the vac line to the reg - see what it reads. foxes are ~32 at idle with the line attached (i think down to 30 is acceptable) and around 38-40 with the line capped (which simulates WOT).
sounds like your pressure is low, but i would investigate further (as well as checking if it is the reg or pump). good luck.
sounds like your pressure is low, but i would investigate further (as well as checking if it is the reg or pump). good luck.
one can carefully crimp the return line to see if it is the pump going bad or the reg returning too much fuel to the tank. i think it is more likely that the pump is on the outs, but checking will tell the story.
good luck.
good luck.
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