i am about to regasket my gt40 intake, my buddy tells me to lay a bead of silicone on the ends, not to use the cork end pieces that come with the kit as they blow out. this makes sense, but i am reluctant to do this procedure again any time soon, so any thoughts on this matter, i appreciate.
shouldn't they have came with rubber ends? seems like the last time I did gaskets on the cobra the fel-pro kit came with rubber ends. The stock intake gaskets came with rubber ends also, worked well so far with just a little goo to keep them from moving on the re-install.
I get the gasket set that comes with the rubber gasket ends and use silicone at the corners. That is my first option, second is only silicone, last option which really isn't even an option is cork, just don't use it.
Here's the fix for all kinds of gasket problems. It works for the pan oil gasket too.
My favorite trick that saves time and effort is the stay in place gasket. Be sure that you scrape (don't use a wire brush) all the old gasket material off, then clean all the surfaces with acetone or MEK.
When the surfaces are clean, use weather strip adhesive on the head to manifold surface. Also use the weather strip adhesive on the side of the gasket that mates to the head. When you are done, the head surface and the gasket surface that mate together will have weather strip adhesive on them. Follow the instructions on the tube or can and when it gets tacky, press the gasket down on the head.
Clean the area where the rubber rails mount to the block in front and in the rear with more acetone or MEK and do the same trick with the weather strip adhesive that you did to the heads.
Coat the rubber seals and the gasket area around the water passages with Blue Silicone gasket sealer and put it together. Bingo! no leaks, and no gaskets that shifted out of place.
I've used both the cork and rubber gaskets with BIG globs of RTV on the corners. I've prob done a dozen intakes this way with no issue. The Cobra intake sitting on my car now has cork gaskets with RTV.