Gauges......

kbnugggz

New Member
Feb 22, 2009
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So i am tired of running my factory oil pressure and water temp gauges. I have ordered an autometer gauge pod for my vent space with oil pressure and water temp. gauges. As far as making both sets work is my issue, i don't want my in dash gauges to just be dead wieght. I figure i can get a tee fitting for my oil pressure lines and the factory sending unit. The problem i am having is trying to figure out how to maintain my factory temp. gauge and run the aftermarket. Any ideas.......
By the way this is on a 1989 GT 5.0 with a 1996 explorer intake, any ideas or thoughs would be helpfull.
thank you for the help.
kinda new at this forum thing lol
 
You can add a copper "T" fitting in the heater hose and add a threaded nipple to the top of the "T" to insert the new temp sensor to get your a working temp setup. As for oil pressure I would imagine you could "T" off the current pressure sensor and install the new one but I would think this would divide pressure readings but who knows. Good luck
 
You'll want to put the aftermarket sender in the stock location and then install the stock sender elsewhere.

The t-stat housing location is not ideal if the t-stat sticks closed.
You can buy a tapped t-stat housing for 10 bucks.

There might be a spare port on the rear of the lower intake. You can relocate the stock sender there and put the new sender in the stock location.

Or as mentioned, you could do a tee in the heater line.

Do not do a tee with two temperature senders however (you cannot do the coolant senders like you will do the oil pressure senders).
 
Tee fitting for the oil pressure gauge works good with no problems.

Mechanical oil pressure gauge installation.


1.) Remove old pressure sender. It is located down by the oil filter and has 1 wire on a push on screw connector.
2.) Install ¼” pipe tee fitting with a short ¼” nipple on the place where you removed the oil pressure sender.
3.) Install the original oil pressure sender back in one of the tee ports.
4.) Install the gauge line restrictor in the remaining port of the tee.
5.) Connect the flex tubing or hydraulic hose to the gauge restrictor. Be sure to route the tubing or hose away from the exhaust manifolds. Be sure to either use hydraulic hose or oil and heat resistant flex tubing for the pressure line. Do not use copper tubing for the connection to the gauge restrictor or engine. Over a period of time, the vibration will work harden the tubing and cause it to crack and fail.
6.) If the gauge is going to mount under the hood, connect it to the end of the hose or flex tubing. Use some Tie-wraps to secure the gauge and its plumbing to the wiring harness on the driver’s side inner fender.
7.) If the gauge is going to mount in the passenger compartment you get to find a place to run the tubing through the firewall. I suggest that you pick your spot from the inside since that is the area with the most difficult access. Do not run the tubing through the exact same hole as the steering shaft. It will tangle up with the steering shaft and cause major problems.
8.) Install the gauge inside the car in the location of your choosing. Connect the pressure line to the gauge and secure it out of the way of moving parts with Tie-wraps.
9.) Be sure to ground the gauge lighting wire to clean, shiny bare metal. Connect the other wire from the gauge lighting to a light brown/red wire on the radio wiring harness. There are 2 connectors in the radio wiring harness, but only one of them has the light brown/red wire you need for gauge illumination. Solder the gauge lighting wire to the light brown/red wire on the radio harness and cover the soldered joint with heat shrink.

How to solder like a pro - Ford Fuel Injection How To Solder Like a Pro a must read for any automotive wiring job.

49295d1172975440-pressure-gauge-line-restrictor-pressure-gauge-flow-restrictor.gif



Alternate placement for a temp gauge sender or temp switch/temp sensor for an electric fan. Use the heater feed that comes off the intake manifold. Cut the rubber hose that connects the manifold water feed to the heater and splice in a tee adapter for the temp gauge sender. Be sure to use the same water feed line as the ECT sensor. That way you will get the most accurate temp readings.

Tee adapter info:
Make a pilgrimage to your local hardware or home supply center and get some copper pipe and a tee that fits the temp gauge sender. Solder two pieces of copper pipe onto a copper pipe tee with threads in the tee part. Find the correct brass fitting to match the temp sender threads to the tee fitting.

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Those are some awsome instrucions on the oil pressure gauge hook up. As for he TTemp. gauge i did some more research on he port on the back of the intake, and am thinking i will move the factory sensor to he back port and use he factory port for the afer market gauge. I geuss ford put that port there for an accurate reading so i will use it. Thank you for all your help and input. :)
 
Tee fitting for the oil pressure gauge works good with no problems.

Mechanical oil pressure gauge installation.


1.) Remove old pressure sender. It is located down by the oil filter and has 1 wire on a push on screw connector.
2.) Install ¼” pipe tee fitting with a short ¼” nipple on the place where you removed the oil pressure sender.
3.) Install the original oil pressure sender back in one of the tee ports.
4.) Install the gauge line restrictor in the remaining port of the tee.
5.) Connect the flex tubing or hydraulic hose to the gauge restrictor. Be sure to route the tubing or hose away from the exhaust manifolds. Be sure to either use hydraulic hose or oil and heat resistant flex tubing for the pressure line. Do not use copper tubing for the connection to the gauge restrictor or engine. Over a period of time, the vibration will work harden the tubing and cause it to crack and fail.
6.) If the gauge is going to mount under the hood, connect it to the end of the hose or flex tubing. Use some Tie-wraps to secure the gauge and its plumbing to the wiring harness on the driver’s side inner fender.
7.) If the gauge is going to mount in the passenger compartment you get to find a place to run the tubing through the firewall. I suggest that you pick your spot from the inside since that is the area with the most difficult access. Do not run the tubing through the exact same hole as the steering shaft. It will tangle up with the steering shaft and cause major problems.
8.) Install the gauge inside the car in the location of your choosing. Connect the pressure line to the gauge and secure it out of the way of moving parts with Tie-wraps.
9.) Be sure to ground the gauge lighting wire to clean, shiny bare metal. Connect the other wire from the gauge lighting to a light brown/red wire on the radio wiring harness. There are 2 connectors in the radio wiring harness, but only one of them has the light brown/red wire you need for gauge illumination. Solder the gauge lighting wire to the light brown/red wire on the radio harness and cover the soldered joint with heat shrink.

How to solder like a pro - Ford Fuel Injection How To Solder Like a Pro a must read for any automotive wiring job.

49295d1172975440-pressure-gauge-line-restrictor-pressure-gauge-flow-restrictor.gif



Alternate placement for a temp gauge sender or temp switch/temp sensor for an electric fan. Use the heater feed that comes off the intake manifold. Cut the rubber hose that connects the manifold water feed to the heater and splice in a tee adapter for the temp gauge sender. Be sure to use the same water feed line as the ECT sensor. That way you will get the most accurate temp readings.

Tee adapter info:
Make a pilgrimage to your local hardware or home supply center and get some copper pipe and a tee that fits the temp gauge sender. Solder two pieces of copper pipe onto a copper pipe tee with threads in the tee part. Find the correct brass fitting to match the temp sender threads to the tee fitting.

attachment.php


Listen to this guy, he knows what he is talking about. I did the same install on mine and it has been working fine for several years. Just wish I would have had this knowledge back in 1996 when I first got my Mustang.