Gear and Suspension Questions

lgbnaf7 said:

I have a 89 convertable gt automatic that is a complete virgin. Nothing at all is done to this car. I was thinking of starting from the rear and working my way forward. Changing the gears first and what not. Why do people say run 4:10's in the rear of a automatic. And what suspension upgrades are do the most for a mustang. I see a whole list of stuff on the Steeda website. I was just wondering if all this stuff is necessary. Thanks.

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Well I dont have intimate knowledge on any of this stuff, but I can offer a little info. People reccommend the 4:10's with an auto because of the way the stock aod is geared it is just a dog. I know this from personal exp. If you want to get off the line at all without modding, or ditching, the stock aod you need that much gearing. As far as handling, the steeda kit is a great and viable option. Since yours is a vert, it has an especially weak chassis and I would highly reccomend doing all in your power to strengthen it. First priority would be sub frames. As for the rest, its all important but a complete kit from steeda is a good move. Either way, have fun with it! IMO, it is a smart move to start with suspension and handling before adding power as well. Good route to take...

dont for get about brakes stock foxes can eaisly over power the brakes i think autos would be worse on the brakes but i have not owned one. you dont want to lose your brakes in any car let alone a mustang

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lgbnaf7 said:

I have a 89 convertable gt automatic that is a complete virgin. Nothing at all is done to this car. I was thinking of starting from the rear and working my way forward. Changing the gears first and what not. Why do people say run 4:10's in the rear of a automatic. And what suspension upgrades are do the most for a mustang. I see a whole list of stuff on the Steeda website. I was just wondering if all this stuff is necessary. Thanks.

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What are your goals and uses for the car? : Do you plan to drag race? Slalom? Use the road course? Does the car need to pass emissions? Is it a daily driver, or a toy? Does gas mileage matter?

first mod should be subframes... then I'd go with 4:10's... five oh hit the nail right on the head

If it is just a toy then you don't wanted too much hardcore racer stuff then.... If you drive her on the freeway I would go with 3.55 or 3.73 gear,4.10 is a lots of gear if later down the road you really gets into the sports and wanted to put in a Supercharger/Turbo etc.( The first time that Honda smokes you at the stoplight ) Take a look around the forum and just about everyone have upgraded their shock and struts by now,anything out there in the aftermarket is superior to the factory stuffs. You might like the looks and the better handling of your Mustang if you lower it with some aftermarket springs. A stock AOD Mustang with 3.08 gear and converter is a dog. I would replaced the converter with a aftermarket unit ( B & M 2400 Holeshort,Edge ,TCI are just a few brand that cater to the AOD crowd ) with a stall speed of around 2400-2600 max. A aftermarket valve body or shift kit ( Lentech, B & M etc ),with the addition of the higher rear end ratio your car will feel like it just lose a thousand pounds of dead weight. All this with out even getting into the engine. A lot have been publish about switching over to the 5 lugs setup for cheap ( Ranger axles etc ) and aftermarket company sell the whole rear disc brake for the Fox Mustang. A better set of Brake pads ( Front and Rear ),Steel braided brake lines from Russell or Earl's will do wonder for the feel and braking distance if fund are running low ( The aftermarket lines could still be used on the new disc setup later down the road ).

Have fun in exploring the endless world of the 5.0 Mustang.

Check out this 4 lugs rear disc set up with factory 3.27 gear.

I would redo the AOD with the 4rw70 1st gear (2.85) and the use 3.73`s in the rear, that will get it off the line much quicker.

on the brake thing i have the part numbers you would need to do the swap to 93-95 cobra brakes i dont know on prices i havent bought anything yet. and you will also need the master clyinder and proportioning valves

imho.... If you plan to build the motor down the road, or go to a power adder, etc... then 4.10 seems like alot of gear. It is probably great with a near stock 5.0, maybe just a cat back, headers, knN, etc... but with H/C/I, shift kit, stall, maybe stroked, etc... then youll probably be blowing the tires off nonstop. You might want to go 3.55 if it will have a 392 or blower, etc down the road, espitially if you plan to drive it on the highway.

DD