Getting My 302 Running Again

Hey All,

So I have been in the process of getting a 1971 302 running again after sitting for about 7 years in a garage. As far as I know, its running a stock cam, heads, and pistons/bore. I bough the engine off a friend's donor car years ago, and it was supposedly rebuilt, but in retrospect I have no idea if it really was or to what quality level. It is possible the cam may be non-stock, but I have no clue.

The engine has an old Holley Contender manifold, a 500 cfm Eddlebrock, high volume oil pump (plan to swap that out with a stock unit ASAP), Tri-Y headers, an old Jacobs electronic ignition, and standard distributer with a Pertronix Ignitor. I've changed the spark plugs, oil, and coolant too, of course, and put a on new intake gasket. I also just had to replace the harmonic balancer.

I recently fired it up for first time, ran it for a few minutes, notice a freeze plug and exhaust leak as well as a wobble in the original balancer, and shut it off. After repairing the leaks and changing the balancer, I started it up again the other night, ran it for a couple minutes, and shut it off.

So it has been only run for a few minutes after sitting for 7ish years.

My question is if I need to be doing anything different in trying to get this thing running again. I noticed that the engine runs rough, sounds rattley, and stumbles when I rev it. The carb is new, out of the box, and I have not made any adjustments to it. I have advanced the timing a little.

Should I just start it up and let it run for a good 20-30 minutes before messing with any tuning? Should I compression test first? What about adjusting the valves (never tackled that before).

I am also suspicious of the distributer. The 302 did not have one when I got it, so I picked one up at the local mega parts store, asked for one for a 1971 302 with a vaccum advance. But, I wonder if I got the right one, or if I should upgrade to something slightly better (just not too much $$!).

I aslo had to crimp the passenger side header to clear the bell housing--good that be causing excessive back pressure and making the engine run rough? Should switch to stock manifolds?

I would really appreciate any tips or suggestions. This forum has been a lifesaver with this car!!
 
an old Jacobs electronic ignition, and standard distributer with a Pertronix Ignitor.
Really? I've always used Pertronix as the whole ignition system.

My question is if I need to be doing anything different in trying to get this thing running again. I noticed that the engine runs rough, sounds rattley, and stumbles when I rev it. The carb is new, out of the box, and I have not made any adjustments to it. I have advanced the timing a little.

Should I just start it up and let it run for a good 20-30 minutes before messing with any tuning? Should I compression test first? What about adjusting the valves (never tackled that before).
Always a good idea, but kind of a pain with the stepped 71 valve stems.

I am also suspicious of the distributer. The 302 did not have one when I got it, so I picked one up at the local mega parts store, asked for one for a 1971 302 with a vaccum advance. But, I wonder if I got the right one, or if I should upgrade to something slightly better (just not too much $$!).
You already have upgraded, with the Pertronix. BUT- it is unlikely in the extreme that the advance curves are within limits, or even close. This could be done for a lot less than some exotic distributor, which itself would probably need adjusting.

I aslo had to crimp the passenger side header to clear the bell housing--good that be causing excessive back pressure and making the engine run rough? Should switch to stock manifolds?
If all you did was flatten the Tri-Y tube a little, you should be fine. Stock manifolds? Bite your tongue. You'd have to mash the tube to make it that bad, although I use the 289HP manifolds on my 289HP.

Just go through the usual tune-up adjustments, and get that distributor adjusted. If no one does it locally, I know a Mustang shop you can send it to.