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  • 2005 - 2014 S-197 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • 2005 - 2009 Specific Tech

Getting rid of the 2005-up throttle dead-play?

  • Thread starter Thread starter metroplex
  • Start date Start date Jul 29, 2008
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Hoboattacker

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Sep 7, 2005
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Baton Rouge (LSU) / Houston, TX
Aug 2, 2008
#41
  • Aug 2, 2008
  • #41
ThumperMX113 said:
Personally, I like the drive by wire systems. Tuning is much easier. It's no fun when you brake a throttle cable. Trust me, I've done it, on the car in my avatar.



No kidding, that's just a fabricated figure.
Click to expand...

I dunno man. There are so many people that have NO clue what they are doing when tuning these new mustangs. The hardest part about these Drive By Wire systems is getting rid of the "drop in" when you tune the car. I know quite a few friends that have had their car tuned by a guy who is great for 03/04 Cobra's and Mach 1's and when he does S197's he has no clue on how to get the drop in out. The drop in is awesome...for about a week and then it gets old. I drove a good 200 miles to get my car tuned by one of the best tuners in the nation (James @ Runnin' With The Devil) just so I wouldn't get that drop in and my car would stay streetable.
 
M

mustangdave

My rearend needs a stud and two nuts.
Founding Member
Feb 26, 2002
2,976
1
56
North Carolina
Aug 2, 2008
#42
  • Aug 2, 2008
  • #42
Uh, has anyone e-mailed Ford about the problem?!! I have, no response yet. Unless we all complain, there will be no fix from Ford. I will try bending the "brushes" if they deny a problem, but I would rather not have to go there.
 

rd

Founding Member
Jan 12, 2000
3,316
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109
Ocean Springs MS
Aug 3, 2008
#43
  • Aug 3, 2008
  • #43
In 10k miles I have never noticed this with my Bullit. The gas pedal seems to work perfectly in every circumstance. This is my first stick shift in 35 years, and I like that it is harder to stall than the old cars used to be. Even the rev limiter works fine.
 
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Lifter583

New Member
May 29, 2008
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Aug 5, 2008
#44
  • Aug 5, 2008
  • #44
This is what I did a while back. I pushed down the thottle with my hand, looked at the gap the thottle arm made at the piviot point when the RPMs came up. I shimmed the gap, making the throttle stop at the point where the RPMs rose. Now I breathe on it and it jumps about 200 rpms. I love it!! No lag. was much easier then taking it apart. Took out about 3/8" play.
 

tr7driver

Member
Sep 5, 2006
117
3
19
Illinois
Aug 6, 2008
#45
  • Aug 6, 2008
  • #45
Lifter583 said:
This is what I did a while back. I pushed down the thottle with my hand, looked at the gap the thottle arm made at the piviot point when the RPMs came up. I shimmed the gap, making the throttle stop at the point where the RPMs rose. Now I breathe on it and it jumps about 200 rpms. I love it!! No lag. was much easier then taking it apart. Took out about 3/8" play.
Click to expand...

What did you use as a shim?
 
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Lifter583

New Member
May 29, 2008
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Aug 6, 2008
#46
  • Aug 6, 2008
  • #46
Really high tech stuff, LOL. I used a little JB weld and a washer with a thin felt attached.
 

tr7driver

Member
Sep 5, 2006
117
3
19
Illinois
Aug 6, 2008
#47
  • Aug 6, 2008
  • #47
Cool Beans

Lifter583 said:
Really high tech stuff, LOL. I used a little JB weld and a washer with a thin felt attached.
Click to expand...

Think you could post a photo?
 
L

Lifter583

New Member
May 29, 2008
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Aug 6, 2008
#48
  • Aug 6, 2008
  • #48
pretty hard to get under there with a camera, just run the seat back and with a light look at where the throttle pivot point is. Then push on the pedal with your hand. See the gap open as the pedal moves down. Now I started the car and let it drop to idle RPMs, then watched the size of the gap as I pushed down the throttle to where the RPMs increased. Just need to put something in there to make a new stop, I used a washer JB welded on the pedal arm which spaced about an 1/16 " but at the pedal end, that is about 3/8" travel gone. The car will sense the new position and that will be the idle point. Then if your shim is correct, the throttle will respond without much pressure. I had to play with the shimming a bit to get it perfect.
 
M

mustangdave

My rearend needs a stud and two nuts.
Founding Member
Feb 26, 2002
2,976
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56
North Carolina
Aug 7, 2008
#49
  • Aug 7, 2008
  • #49
The response from Ford was "take it to the dealer, if they don't fix it, it is your responsibility". Wow, what jackasses.
 

NastyStang113

New Member
Sep 12, 2008
1,567
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Florida
Aug 7, 2008
#50
  • Aug 7, 2008
  • #50
mustangdave said:
The response from Ford was "take it to the dealer, if they don't fix it, it is your responsibility". Wow, what jackasses.
Click to expand...

And what did you expect them to say?
 
7

7upstang

New Member
Sep 20, 2004
75
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Calgary, Alberta
Aug 15, 2008
#51
  • Aug 15, 2008
  • #51
Hey Metroplex,

I really like the 350Zs too, but you might want to go to some of the "Z" forums and check the problems they are having. I was really thinking of buying one, but the early ones have terrible tire feathering issues that Nissan has been both unable and unwilling to fix. Some of The newer "Z"s and Altimas (07, 08) have been using oil to the tune of a quart every 1000 miles. Not trying to stand on a soap box and defend Ford here, just trying to prevent you from being really disappointed from another car. Two guys at work drive '04 350Zs and they have to replace their front tires every 5000-6000 miles.

Not saying that happens with all of the Z's, but you just never know.

Peace
 

40th GT

New Member
Apr 7, 2004
916
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0
Lawrenceville, GA
Aug 15, 2008
#52
  • Aug 15, 2008
  • #52
Yeah Z's and G35/37s are weaksauce. They may have nice interiors and all but I don't consider them as performance cars. For me, it's all about Mustangs, Camaros, and Corvettes.

back on topic:
I would just try Lifter583's brilliant idea and call it a day.
 
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