Getting Upper and Lower Control Arms

StangPro

New Member

Sep 30, 2004

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Roseville, MI

Apr 12, 2005

#21

• Apr 12, 2005

• #21

EDGE Motorsport said:

do the uppers make that much difference or are the lower ones the best ones to get first ?

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Do the lowers first if cost is a factor, but the uppers to make a difference as well. The lowers help the straight line more and are more noticeable.

 

EDGE Motorsport

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Sep 24, 2004

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Saleen S281, London, UK

Apr 12, 2005

#22

• Apr 12, 2005

• #22

i might just go with the lowers for now and see how they go then upgrade the uppers later on when ive got another $300 spare..

EDGE

 

R

rjstaaf

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May 31, 2002

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Apr 12, 2005

#23

• Apr 12, 2005

• #23

Steeda uppers (they are stock uppers that are reinforced and have stiffer bushings.

Maximum Motorsports (MM) adjustable lower control arms.

Just have to get my MM full length subframe connectors installed and then I will install the control arms as well as Bullitt springs, shocks, struts and sway bars.

 

S

Silvr04GT

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Feb 4, 2002

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San Jose, CA

Apr 12, 2005

#24

• Apr 12, 2005

• #24

How about an adjustable versus nonadjustable debate?

 

StangPro

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Sep 30, 2004

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Roseville, MI

Apr 12, 2005

#25

• Apr 12, 2005

• #25

Adjustable is almost always a waste, unless the car races at several different tracks where you need the pinion angle adjustment, or has some odd set-up where the weight jacker is actually used.

We almost always recommend against adjustables unless it's a dedicated race car.

 

hognutz

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Nov 12, 2002

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albany, oregon

Apr 12, 2005

#26

• Apr 12, 2005

• #26

go read some of the tech articals on the global west site and MM site. they have some good info if you car abou the handling of your car.

you can get away with almost any of these in a drag race only setup.

definatly get the lowers first. ultimatly you would delete the uppers and run a torque arm or something if you really wanted to run a great suspention IMO. then again I like to drive my car around corners as well.

 

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OC Stang

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Jul 21, 2003

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Orange County, CA

Apr 12, 2005

#27

• Apr 12, 2005

• #27

I would get MM all the way. They make some of the best built and quality suspensions parts out there.

 

95BLBLVert

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Nov 2, 1999

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Lake Wylie, SC

Apr 12, 2005

#28

• Apr 12, 2005

• #28

I don't understand why nobody seems to know about Metco Motorsports. They make the highest quality rear suspension components in the aftermarket...hands down. I've used their lowers for years and would never use another brand. I will say that Global West makes good lowers as well but they are heavier. What this boils down to is quality engineering= higher price but I don't care about price. I want the very best for my car. I do understand that there are quite a few college guys/gals out there that don't have the money but hey, save up.

 

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laser01gt

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Mar 9, 2004

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Apr 13, 2005

#29

• Apr 13, 2005

• #29

I have teh Granatteli Motorsports and they made a huge difference in handling and wheel hop. And as an added bonus, you can snag them on Ebay right now for 149 bucks for both Uppers and Lowers.

 

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ffr66cobra

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Dec 18, 2004

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Apr 13, 2005

#30

• Apr 13, 2005

• #30

MM's are $380.... These Granatelli's are pretty much the exact same control arm for $200 at Jegs.

 

StangPro

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Roseville, MI

Apr 13, 2005

#31

• Apr 13, 2005

• #31

Problem with those is the spherical bearings that aren't recommended for street cars. Bearings need to be inspected regularly and relaced fairly often, especially if the car sees bad weather or rough roads.

 

R

rjstaaf

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May 31, 2002

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Apr 13, 2005

#32

• Apr 13, 2005

• #32

ffr66cobra said:

MM's are $380.... These Granatelli's are pretty much the exact same control arm for $200 at Jegs.

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Go over to the forums at www.corner-carvers.com and ask them what they think of Granatelli. Their stuff is ok but, they have a really bad reputation for poor customer service. On the other hand you will have a hard time finding someone who has had a problem with Maximum Motorsports.

 

S

Silvr04GT

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Feb 4, 2002

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San Jose, CA

Apr 13, 2005

#33

• Apr 13, 2005

• #33

Alright, all this info is super good to know! I was planning on getting MM LCAs, FRPP UCAs and an MM Panhard Bar. Are the UCAs not required when you have a panhard bar?

 

wms004

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Jan 15, 2002

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Los Angeles

Apr 13, 2005

#34

• Apr 13, 2005

• #34

ffr66cobra said:

MM's are $380.... These Granatelli's are pretty much the exact same control arm for $200 at Jegs.

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Umm no. Look at the spherical bearing on the MM arm.. Its different. I'll bet the 3 piece poly bushing is different too. Go with the MM.

 

wms004

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Jan 15, 2002

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Los Angeles

Apr 13, 2005

#35

• Apr 13, 2005

• #35

StangPro said:

Problem with those is the spherical bearings that aren't recommended for street cars. Bearings need to be inspected regularly and relaced fairly often, especially if the car sees bad weather or rough roads.

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Poly bushings are the ones that need to be replaced. I run spherical bearings on both sides and its not too harsh on "bad roads" and the ride is not harsh. Better ride quality than stock actually. I would be surprised if I EVER had to replace a spherical bearing, especially with the lifetime warranty MM gives.

 

StangPro

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Sep 30, 2004

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Roseville, MI

Apr 13, 2005

#36

• Apr 13, 2005

• #36

I see that you're in CA though. Here in Michigan bearing won't last a year on a street car.

 

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JOHNS01GT

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Feb 26, 2004

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Vermont

Apr 13, 2005

#37

• Apr 13, 2005

• #37

I've had the steeda aluminums for about 10,000 miles and the only problem is that they creak when I'm in first under light take off. I like them, they have definately improved the handling and launching.

 

xseler8

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May 4, 2004

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Montgomery County,Pa.

Apr 13, 2005

#38

• Apr 13, 2005

• #38

Rocketman said:

I have the exact Steeda set you have pictured. Couldn't be happier!

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Same here