best rear control arms?

[nickyb]

Metco still sells there billet arms for $300ish I think if you don't need the weight jacker design, not sure if they every updated to the 3pc ball style bushings though. Still remember when GMS ripped that off and windowed the design lol.

Me, give me some Dom tubing and decent heim joints, rest I can burn my self. Majority of the adjustment I would want is in the mounting points on the chassis and axle housing, but then again most of my cars still have skinnes and no sway bar so corner carving isn't my thing.

I've got metco upper and lower 15+ years street duty.

 

[FastDriver]

On topic, obviously I'm a fan of maximum motorsports. The adjustable type really isn't necessary.
That team z set of uppers looks like a weaker copy of the steeda version, which at least has half the top boxed for strength. I never liked the open top version.

I needed the adjustable to get the pinion angle right, which helped with the vibration issue I had. That's why I pulled out the non-adjustable BBK Gripps on the car for the Team-Zs. I think it's a moot point on strength. Never heard of any of these breaking.

 

[2000xp8]

I needed the adjustable to get the pinion angle right, which helped with the vibration issue I had. That's why I pulled out the non-adjustable BBK Gripps on the car for the Team-Zs. I think it's a moot point on strength. Never heard of any of these breaking.

I'm not really against the adjustables, i also think they are way better with a bushing like the ones you have.
But the side to side movement can spread them (not break) when there is no plate on top when the car isn't only used for drag racing.
The steeda ones have been around forever and my guess is that not everyone beats their car around bends and it could really be a non issue, but i'd still pay the $50 more for the ones with the plate on the top.
With that said, with a $500 budget, it's not where i would put the money unless necessary.

He didn't say either yet whether or not he has sub frame connectors and is the horsepower 325 at the wheels?

 

[General karthief]

Didn't I send you my old Steeda lowers with 3 piece bushings?

On topic, obviously I'm a fan of maximum motorsports. The adjustable type really isn't necessary.
That team z set of uppers looks like a weaker copy of the steeda version, which at least has half the top boxed for strength. I never liked the open top version.
I ran a version of them with heims only on the body side and that would be a firm hell no a second time.
Before I had the torque arm I ran motorsport uppers as my last set, I would do that again.

Yes you did, they do not have the provision for sway bar, I still have them in the box.

 

[2000xp8]

Yes you did, they do not have the provision for sway bar, I still have them in the box.

You better look again. There is a 100% chance i ran a sway bar. Along with 2 sets of different strength new 3 piece bushings.

https://stangnet.com/mustang-forums/attachments/20190724_110754-1-jpg.631978/

 

[FastDriver]

I'm not really against the adjustables, i also think they are way better with a bushing like the ones you have.
But the side to side movement can spread them (not break) when there is no plate on top when the car isn't only used for drag racing.
The steeda ones have been around forever and my guess is that not everyone beats their car around bends and it could really be a non issue, but i'd still pay the $50 more for the ones with the plate on the top.
With that said, with a $500 budget, it's not where i would put the money unless necessary.

He didn't say either yet whether or not he has sub frame connectors and is the horsepower 325 at the wheels?

If anyone is going to tear them up, it's me. I'm autocrossing the car and just got the R-compound tires to do it on. My feel is that unless you're reinforced, they are thick enough to tear up the chassis. I get, from a structural engineering point of view, that a box end is better, but pragmatically, these aren't bending from driving forces.

 

[limp]

That was a great price.... they're $550/pair now!

I went through all of my receipts looking for the actual price and could not find it...
I will say that looking at all of the invoices kinda scared me... Out of control project here, and its nothing special at all..... LOL..

 

[colehelm]

I'm not really against the adjustables, i also think they are way better with a bushing like the ones you have.
But the side to side movement can spread them (not break) when there is no plate on top when the car isn't only used for drag racing.
The steeda ones have been around forever and my guess is that not everyone beats their car around bends and it could really be a non issue, but i'd still pay the $50 more for the ones with the plate on the top.
With that said, with a $500 budget, it's not where i would put the money unless necessary.

He didn't say either yet whether or not he has sub frame connectors and is the horsepower 325 at the wheels?

i dont have subframe connectors yet, i was going to buy those and torque box reinforcements at the same time as control arms, and it its 325, at the wheels

 

[General karthief]

I went through all of my receipts looking for the actual price and could not find it...
I will say that looking at all of the invoices kinda scared me... Out of control project here, and its nothing special at all..... LOL..

Aren't they all?
Well, not mine, I'm a cheap btch

 

[FastDriver]

I said I wasn't gonna do that this time... But on the flip side, I didn't go dart, turbo, etc... with black jack, and am maybe enjoying it more.

 

[WhiteCobra95]

While we're on the topic, do any of you guys run the spherical UCA axle bushings? If so, which UCAs do you run them with and what do you think of them for street driving? I've been considering switching, but I'm concerned that they will make things too loose in terms of lateral axle movement without a panhard bar or be too harsh for the street. Long term durability would be another concern. They aren't that expensive and don't seem like they're much more work to install compared to rubber bushings, so all else being equal, are they a real improvement or more of a track only thing?

 

[FastDriver]

I have em in the 331 Turbo car, but it's hard for me to speak to those questions, as I don't have many miles on 'em. Full Team-Z setup.. It's a straight-line oriented street car on 28" tires, so I don't take it around corners like I do with the other cars, but there's no noticeable lateral movement at all. But, it's a comfortable ride ever since I fixed Team-Z's own installation mistake with their ARB.

On balance, I'd advise against in a street car. Worse NVH, more wear & tear for minimal improvement. Spherical will not handle rain, rust, and crud from the road the way rubber or poly will. They are a solid connection form road noise to transmit through, etc... And I definitely wouldn't play without upper boxes.

Plenty of guys go very fast with non-spherical bushing setups.

 

[foxbodybill89]

Ford Performance replacement uppers from MM, and their axle side bushings. Still rubber but harder than stock. J&M street lower arms with the three piece poly/rubber bushings. 355 bucks for all, not too extreme for street duty.

 

[Yel2002GTAuto]

I reccomend the steeds upper and lowers with polyurethane bushings...that with maximum motorsports rear adjustable coil overs with 50/50 shocks...best traction at the track with just MT drag radials.. cut 1.56 60 ft on any track consistently...

Ed

 

[AeroCoupe]

Griggs Racing lowers and Global West uppers on my T-Bird. Global West uppers have spherical bushings on the body side and stock rubber bushings in the rear end. Griggs units are urethane on the body side and spherical on the rear end side. Car has coil overs and a sway bar in the rear and it sticks in the corners. Zero rubbing on the fender lip or wheel well or the 3" tail pipes. Running 275/40R17 Nitto 555RII's so they are fairly wide.