Girdles...fact or fiction?

87'GTstang

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Feb 16, 2004
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I have been hearing so much that any type of girdle has its drawbacks, on the other hand they make things stronger, last longer, and so forth.

Main cap - I have heard that they can make the configuration stronger than some 4 bolt blocks out there, that they can decrease main cap walk. Also I've heard that they can add some bad harmonics throughout the caps and induce a spun bearing. On another note, I've heard that the material that the main cap girdle is made out of has a big impact on the strength or effect the girdle has (weather is it aluminum or steel, ect.). Some say that in the end the girdle has contributed to the eventual cracking down the center. Others say that all it really does is hold things together when it's all said and done and is laying in two pieces in your engine bay.

Lifter valley girdle - I haven't heard a lot about this until as of recently. The main deal I have with it is the makers of this act as though nothing is there in between the "V" or valley of the block and this is the reason it splits down the middle. To me, does the lower intake manifold not act as a big help due to its natural design and placement? At this point, does the lifter valley girdle make it that much more better. On the flip side, everyone knows the block cracks down the middle. The makers of these things claim that it starts at the top where most of the stress comes from the cylinders during the power cycle. So this makes sense since with each power stroke, I know as well as most others do here that each combustion is basically trying to blow the cylinder heads off the block (it's the fact that they don't that makes the piston go back down the bore and create power) so basically this wants to rip the block apart. Okay, but many say that the cracking starts from the bottom where the crank resides and moves upwards. In that case, what good is the lifter valley girdle?

Rear axle Bearing cap girdle - This one has personally been in my opinion just like an add-on. There is the usual "will extend ring and pinion life", "will make your differential run cooler" but also people say it makes it that much more stronger. Okay so it adds some support, but I have heard people say that if you are at the power level where your bearing caps are ready to blow themselves out of the pumpkin, what good is that casted piece of aluminum back behind them? So install says that you just snug the bearing cap supports down and don't crank on them - in this case if we are talking about 500 ft/lbs torque from the engine and a steep gear ratio, can just "snugging" something down rival the force of all this monsterous torque back there?


So here are the questions I pose, What works well and what doesn't, what is fact or BS, and of what does work, what designs, materials, or special installation methods are the best?
 
It all kinda sounds like BS to me...the only good things i have heard for main gurdles is that when it does blow or split down the middle that you may be able to reuse some parts because it keeps everything together. Dont know if i believe it tho....simple answer...get a nice block
 
87'GTstang said:
Lifter valley girdle - I haven't heard a lot about this until as of recently. The main deal I have with it is the makers of this act as though nothing is there in between the "V" or valley of the block and this is the reason it splits down the middle. To me, does the lower intake manifold not act as a big help due to its natural design and placement? At this point, does the lifter valley girdle make it that much more better. On the flip side, everyone knows the block cracks down the middle. The makers of these things claim that it starts at the top where most of the stress comes from the cylinders during the power cycle. So this makes sense since with each power stroke, I know as well as most others do here that each combustion is basically trying to blow the cylinder heads off the block (it's the fact that they don't that makes the piston go back down the bore and create power) so basically this wants to rip the block apart. Okay, but many say that the cracking starts from the bottom where the crank resides and moves upwards. In that case, what good is the lifter valley girdle?

I've wondered the exact same thing. I think the lifter valley girdle is :bs:
 
yeah i had both on my block when it split, my engine buider says there crap for making a stock block stronger, but they dont hurt anything.

when mine split he said i was lucky that i was fully girdled b/c i was able to save my zero ballanced rotating asm.

and for 400 bucks worth of girldles it was cheap insurance i feel.
 
shttygtstang said:
this is what ive heard and read they add no strenth and they just keep it a nice complete peice when it does split

I'm not trying to be an @$$ but can you provide some of these sources?
I would be interested in reading who has made these types of statements, and also why they made those statements.

The harmonics that could result from installing the main girdle, is the only argument that may be real in my opinion. However, the same vibrations would exist without the girdle, but they would shake out better due to more flexibility. Can't see how it would be better to let the vibrations continmue through out the entire block, inducing stress as it travels and interacts with other vibrations.
 
mackey said:
The valley girdle is pretty new and hasn't been tested as much as the others. I'm still waiting on some results on it. I've seen good ones so far... Still waiting on the bad.

I've never seen one of the valley girdles for the windsor.

Who makes them?

Any links?
 
mackey said:
The valley girdle is pretty new and hasn't been tested as much as the others. I'm still waiting on some results on it. I've seen good ones so far... Still waiting on the bad.


arhhhmm

on a dyno 570hp and like 580 or so torque @ 3,200 rpm

Apr18_001.webp


w/ like 13 lbs boost. both girdles didn't do anything but hold the pieces in..
 

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I just went with the whole bottom end kit... girlde, windage tray, main studs pan high flow pump etc. I cant imagine the girdle would hurt any, and im not saying it helps much but im sure it does a little. If there is any flexing in the mains im sure it helps eliminate it or tries.. lol
 
vristang said:
I'm not trying to be an @$$ but can you provide some of these sources?
I would be interested in reading who has made these types of statements, and also why they made those statements.

The harmonics that could result from installing the main girdle, is the only argument that may be real in my opinion. However, the same vibrations would exist without the girdle, but they would shake out better due to more flexibility. Can't see how it would be better to let the vibrations continmue through out the entire block, inducing stress as it travels and interacts with other vibrations.

MUst i realy go into back threads ive read or isthe pictures and post in this thread enough they save parts thats all a nice clean split mees is all you get...If all else fails blaim canada :canada:
 
I still like the main girdles, in most cases if the block breaks they will save the rotating assembly and I think they do help a little. I also like the DSS girdle (ALUM) the best they fit great. I think the alum grabs some of the harmonics and could possibly help the bearings.

NOW nothing will take the catastrophic event of a crank breaking like the above picture, I've seen 4 bolt blocks break because of that. You must have the mains checked and possibly align honed with the girdle installed, if not this could lead to other issues.

Now I don't believe the lifter valve girdles so a thing, a few 5/16" or 1/4" bolts are going to do a thing in a thin structure.

Rick
www.rnhperformance.net
 
I have not seen any proof of thier effectivness. They may hold the rotating assembly togeather but that's about it. They make it because they know someone is going to buy it, and they want to make money. A chain is no stronger than it's weakest link, and that weakest link is right up the center of the block on a 302W.