Going To A Slot Style Maf For Na Possibly. Got Some Questions

from6to8

There's suction so I used that end O_O
15 Year Member
Sep 2, 2012
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Ok some are suggesting that it's definitely the way to go but I haven't had a lot of feedback as to why it would be far more beneficial other than it seems to be a piece of mind to not rely on a meter that's calibrated from a company. Then there's this video that I just watched while googling information as to exacty what the slot meters are, what choices do i have if I were to go that route, ect. That video shows that the Pro M meters ( calibrated from a company), seem to be on the same level if not better as far as what it shows on the graph than the slot styles and others comparabe. I have heard the names SCT BA 2600 and 3000 and a video from american muscle shows that it's a type that seems to be for forced induction but seems it can be used on cars prior to 99 but the car will need to be tuned.

So please enlighten me on this whole matter and in the meantime I'll keep reading up to try and get a better understanding of the whole lingo of just what these meters are about.

Oh and also it seems going to this one thread, going slot style actually you get rid of the IAT sensor and maf sensor being 2 seperate connections and combines them into one. And my car is going to be a 331 Na and going to get a dyno tune. I am going to get another 95 after I build it and will be doing a 400.

link to video:

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q_rBtdQ_2Zk
 
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Looked into this myself recently.. honestly I kept it separate because of the vortech.. but i've heard a LOT of bad things about pro m.. of course this likely goes for any company.. as it stands i've got what I believe to be 2 diff. bad 90mm lightning MAFS.. one from ebay which was from a reputable company.. then dropped and believed damaged.. now I bought a new FMS one.. and it's doing the same damn thing.. sooo.... hmm... lol...
 
Looked into this myself recently.. honestly I kept it separate because of the vortech.. but i've heard a LOT of bad things about pro m.. of course this likely goes for any company.. as it stands i've got what I believe to be 2 diff. bad 90mm lightning MAFS.. one from ebay which was from a reputable company.. then dropped and believed damaged.. now I bought a new FMS one.. and it's doing the same damn thing.. sooo.... hmm... lol...
wowww. Yeah with some things I don't mind upgrading and going to the latest and greatest since there might be a chance something could be wrong or go wrong in the calibration.

Keep it separate? It seems the slot maf combines the IAT and maf sensor in one pigtail connector and one sensor and it's for forced induction setups actually.

Are you the guy from maryland that has the car for sale?
 
Negative. Just did a 95 cobra to 95 v6 chassis swap.. in Cali. I dislike the combined sensor for forced induction bc I prefer to actually have the physical IAT right behind the outlet to the vortech and directly in front of the inlet to the t.body.. you can't get a better spot for monitoring air intake temp properly on a forced induction setup.

IMO of course.
 
Negative. Just did a 95 cobra to 95 v6 chassis swap.. in Cali. I dislike the combined sensor for forced induction bc I prefer to actually have the physical IAT right behind the outlet to the vortech and directly in front of the inlet to the t.body.. you can't get a better spot for monitoring air intake temp properly on a forced induction setup.

IMO of course.
Oh gotcha.
You went from a cobra to v6 chasis or vice versa lol?

Yeah I have to read up more on the slot maf's so I can decide on which brand/options I have to choose from, ect
 
Bought 95 cobra with a f ton of mods. Had minor incident.. lol. Actually I think it was the PIP sensor.. or something similar.. I have yet to solve.. the car would randomly 'die' in mid driving.. for a second.. just go dead.. and pop right back.. but one time it did it.. and locked the steering in a turn.... ugh. So... if you look at the 2nd thread down in the forum you can see a few pix.. the 'shell' thread..

I took the entire pair of cars down 90%+.. and made a beast of one along with some new stuff lol.

As for the slot mafs.. i'm fighting my own demons with one I think lol.. ugh.
 
Bought 95 cobra with a f ton of mods. Had minor incident.. lol. Actually I think it was the PIP sensor.. or something similar.. I have yet to solve.. the car would randomly 'die' in mid driving.. for a second.. just go dead.. and pop right back.. but one time it did it.. and locked the steering in a turn.... ugh. So... if you look at the 2nd thread down in the forum you can see a few pix.. the 'shell' thread..

I took the entire pair of cars down 90%+.. and made a beast of one along with some new stuff lol.

As for the slot mafs.. i'm fighting my own demons with one I think lol.. ugh.
yeah both times I've changed PIP sensors in the dizzy before, I had those symptoms.

From your first reply I couldn't tell if you said you were inquiring on the slot maf's to you just seeming to say you have a slot maf now and it's causing issues lol
 
Go
One was ebay and one was amazon
Gotcha.
Well reading up on things today and calling Pro-m I am going to for the 331 I'm either going to stay with the 75 millimeter that I have and send it to get calibrated for 30 pound injectors or I'm going to go with and the 80 if I made depends on if I find a used one that I feel and Trust to be good. If I don't I'll stay with the 75 and get it recalibrated for $100. For the 400 Windsor I'm going to go 92 millimeter Pro-m so I'm not messing with the slot type after what I've learned today. Not that anything is wrong with them but I don't need to go to it as in something that tonight and day difference if any