good setup??

DMAC88LX

New Member
Nov 28, 2004
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Boston
just bought my first stang, 88 lx 5.o it's completley stock now. tell me how this setup sounds.
345hp ford gt-40 crate, b-303 cam
24# injectors

:flame: 1 3/4 mac ceramic long tubes to a 3 inch collector, mac pro chamber, and mac catback w/ 3-1/2" tips

the new bbk intake, matched with their 75 mm throttle body, 75mm mass air, and mac cold air

3:73's

I haven't heard much about the bbk intake but what i have heard has been good, has anyone tried one yet??? if so what do you think?

also, what kind of mass air kit should i get???

thank you all in advance for the help!!

<<i added another post a little more in depth down :notnice: a few posts>>
 
Get the crate motor with the Ecam over the Bcam...better yet look to other companies for a long block. Better yet get your self a rebuild on the exisiting block..it's cheaper and you can provide the components to add to it. Next..sorry dude but your exhaust choice is TOO BIG you need to downgrade to 1-5/8 LT's and 2-1/2 exhaust..bigger is not always better. The BBK is the MOST expensive intake out..it's not the best performing...and it's not widely used..my take on that is there are better ways to go as well. Now for the MAC CAI...you're better off with simply removing the silencer from the passenger side fenerwell and adding a K&N panel filter in your air box. I flows MORE than enough to meet your needs..however is not as pretty as the MAC system...but yet both are still CAI as both draw air from the same location. Just opinions..you'll get lots of them on here, good luck and enjoy.
 
for the mass air set up the 93 cobra would be perfect. it is calibrated for 24# injectors. the tb choice for your car is too much, unless you go fi. a 70mm is good for n/a. not sure but heard the bbk intake is back ordered for a long time. it is an ok choice for the street and the extra cost of that intake is the fact that it includes its own fuel rails. a crate engine is good especially if you just want a nice little ride with low maintance. it can be cheaper to rebuild. its your first stang so what are your intentions and plans for the car? giving more info will help lead you into the right direction. ppl like DMAN302 have nice combo's that can give good advice. his sig shows a good example of parts similar to what you seem to be looking for.
 
70mm t.b. is more then enough, as said, 1 5/8" long tubes with 2.5" exhaust, and ur gonna need to mass air convert, Just get the basic 5.0 stuff, computer and harness, that way you can get whateevr mass air meter and any inj u feel that will be calibrated with the mass air
 
There is a company in 5.0 mag..AMP I think they are called, they sell the Mass air conversion with several options. You can buy the original FMS with factory MAF, or upgrade to a PRO-M (or other aftermarket maf) calibrated for larger injectors. You can even order the mass air kit to include MAC CAI (no gain in performance but no doubt looks great) and the upgraded maf. The benefit of this style kit is..you get the FMS jumper wire and plate and mass air computer that really is a plug and play install (1 easy hour) and the upgraded parts you'll need at a cost savings. Collecting parts from ebay and salvage yards is also an option..but I was more interested in getting everything ASAP together and in..cost more but much easier.
 
thanks for all the advice everyone!! Here's a little more of what I'm working towards.

My motor now, from what the title says has at least 264,000, my buddy i bought it from claims the person he purchased it from told him it had about 140,000. Seams like a strong motor, haven't done a compression test yet but it doesn't burn oil, at least i can't smell it, or see it. it does have the typical lower intake leak I've read about, the pan might be leaking, along with the r.main, just cant tell yet with all the oil from the intake.


i am going to the salvage yard tomorrow to try and find a maf setup, and any other parts that are pretty that haven't been raped yet...
I'd like the gt 40 crate just for the fact that it's gone down the ford assembly line so it should be a damn good motor, and since it's gonna be a DD during the summer it has to be reliable. it seams fairly priced to me for a basically ready to go 345 horses. and the 9:1 compression would allow for a vortech to be bolted on in the future. Who makes a good kit to rebuild my current block? I'f I bore it to a 306 or stroke it (hehe i said stroke it) do i have to change or re-calibrate the computer or anything else???
after starting this tread i was reading about the mac exhaust, and found alot of negative remarks regaurding fitment problems, but they are so cheap compared to some other companies, on the other had i love the way they sound. :shrug: The bbk LT's look nice, but i'd like 1-3/4, and they don't offer one am i right?? Maybe since i'm looking for more of a road course car instead of just a drag car would it be smarter to choose equal length shorties so i don't have to worry about bottoming out when the suspension is lowered(coil overs)??
As for the intake, the BBK attracted me because it's different. Although i do like the edelbrock Performer RPM, ecspecially after a nice port and polish.
If i were to keep the current motor after a rebuild, the AFR 185 heads tickle my fancy.(tickle what?)
Then for the clutch, i saw a FRPP clutch for, i wanna say under 150 beans, then see the centerforce clutchclutch for 399, is centerforce really that much superior?
Tranny, keep the stocker and rebuild it, or buy a tremec 6 speed?(just to give me that extra gear on the highway)?

I love going fast, who doesn't? I just want to be able to take corners like a porsche too!! :rlaugh: I like to drag too but the roads i drive on aren't strait. for that reason i think i would choose to go with coil over on all four corners to perfectly tune weight distribution. Why not throw a tubular k and some A-arms too??? I like the maximum motorsports line of parts, but they seam a bit pricey compared to say a D&D setup.
In the back, steeda 5 link setup, S+S solid rear, with 3:73's or possibly 3:55's, how high are the rpm's with the 3:73's doing 75 in fifth, because i have a long stretch of strait I-95 to screw down to get to the track in NH. That's the only reason i might choose the 3:55's. Then for a posi diff., I'd like something that allows tight quick corners to be made without the ass end hopping everywhere...... also change to 5 lug's, i like my tires to stay one the car thank you very much. :nice:

And we gotta have disc's on all four's!

now it's 4:15 in the morning and my brain hurts from all this late night inebreated thinking!! :cheers: Can't wait to read all your input! If i missed anything let me know!

Thanks again, Dan Mac
 
rebuild or short block is up to you. I would look into the crate explorer motors (1500ish). They feature a good bottom end and good "P" heads. i personally hate anything that has MAC on it except the tools (differant company altogether). Get away from the 1 3/4 exhaust. You don't need it and is a waste of time, space, and aggrevation, and lowend power. I run BBK longtubes on my 86 Vert and 89Lx. They are the best fitting longtube i have seen one the market. Just get the ceramic coating as the chrome is kinda cheap. I have just as much ground clearance as I did from the factory (minus the 1 3/4 drop). Let's put it this way...My sub frame connectors hang lower than the BBk's.

And speaking from a guy that has had a bunch of 3.55's....go with the 3.73's. I would also personally stay away from the motorsport alphebet cams. Comp, Crane, AFM, lunati, crower, etc all make better cams. A 65-70mm TB is a good choice for your combo. A 75 will just result in lost hp and tq in the driveable rpm range.