got codes now what??

[ptfoxbdy89]

well i checked some error codes for my check engine flickering in my 89 lx 2.3L and it spit out a 31 in KOEO and a 32 in KOER both had to to with EGR valve position.. how should i got about checking the problem from there? just pull of the egr from the top and clear the probably crust covered part? I'm working with my limited mechanical knowledge but im trying.. usually through trail and error can anyone help. sorry if i sound mildly retarded..

 

[ethangsmith]

First and easiest thing to do is to remove the valve and ensure that the exhaust passage is clean and free of debris and the valve, with vacuum applied to it, opens and closes smoothly and holds vacuum (no tears in the diaphragm). Also, while you're at it, follow your vacuum lines to ensure they are not cracked, disconnected, or loose. Put it back on and drive it for about 5-10 minutes. Stop the car (be careful doing this!) and pop the hood and feel the EGR pipe coming up from your exhaust manifold at the valve. If it's blazing hot, your EGR system is now working. If it is only warm or slightly hot, a quick check of the codes again will probably show it is still not working. Next thing to do is replace the sensor on the EGR valve. It's held in with 3 screws. They are prone to fail so replacement sensors are cheap and readily available. About $25 bucks from NAPA. Replace the sensor and once again apply vacuum to the valve to ensure the diaphragm is not torn and the o-ring for the sensor has seated. Drive it around again. Check to see if the tube is hot and then run your codes to confirm repair or not. If still not working, the only thing left would be the vacuum control solenoids located on your passenger side strut tower. There are 2 solenoids. New ones are available for about $80, or you could go your local junkyard and snag a few for a much cheaper price.

Hope this helps!

 

[ptfoxbdy89]

First and easiest thing to do is to remove the valve and ensure that the exhaust passage is clean and free of debris and the valve, with vacuum applied to it, opens and closes smoothly and holds vacuum (no tears in the diaphragm). Also, while you're at it, follow your vacuum lines to ensure they are not cracked, disconnected, or loose. Put it back on and drive it for about 5-10 minutes. Stop the car (be careful doing this!) and pop the hood and feel the EGR pipe coming up from your exhaust manifold at the valve. If it's blazing hot, your EGR system is now working. If it is only warm or slightly hot, a quick check of the codes again will probably show it is still not working. Next thing to do is replace the sensor on the EGR valve. It's held in with 3 screws. They are prone to fail so replacement sensors are cheap and readily available. About $25 bucks from NAPA. Replace the sensor and once again apply vacuum to the valve to ensure the diaphragm is not torn and the o-ring for the sensor has seated. Drive it around again. Check to see if the tube is hot and then run your codes to confirm repair or not. If still not working, the only thing left would be the vacuum control solenoids located on your passenger side strut tower. There are 2 solenoids. New ones are available for about $80, or you could go your local junkyard and snag a few for a much cheaper price.

Hope this helps!

it does ill try it first thing in the morning.. thx for the help man most people won't take the time to help someone now a day you know.. haha anyway thx for the input

 

[ethangsmith]

No problem. That's what these forums are here for. Since most people have knowledge of the 5.0L engines, when I post a 2.3L question, I seldom get good responses. So I started dissecting my 2.3L's myself and finding my own answers and ways to diagnose stuff. My 86 is carbed, my 88 is EFI, so I get to work on both systems.