Got IRS??
- Thread starter simplyJ
- Start date
That'll do too
I didn't realize it would have to be changed untill I was already into it.
same here... had to make an emergency trip to the local wrecking yard. Good thing one of the guys there is a mustang guy... he matched up the cobra flange (which I had removed and brought in) to a 95 explorer driveshaft flange for me.
Hey J, It's getting warmer so I'm getting the itch to do some work to the fox. I remembered this post and had a couple of questions for you. I know you have 03 control arms and an sn95 rack in your car. I'm wondering if those were 03 cobra/gt/or v6 control arms (I'm not sure of the differences if any), and I'm also interested in the sn95 rack. I know that with those control arms you don't need to mess with the tie rods, but I hear that the steering shaft connection is different, and I'm curious if that's true, or if everything bolted right up. If everything didn't bolt right up, what did you need to do to make it work?
Thanks!
Well you guys inspired me to do the conversion. I picked up an 04 cobra IRS! It didn't have the brakes which is expected but it doesn't have the subframe mounting brackets. Does anybody have a part number or know of where to find them. I have been searching for a day or so on the net... craigslist/google/ebay and havn't come up with anything. Any other info on parts or suggestions is also greatly appreciated.
Kevin
Kevin
Is this the part?!?! #7?
http://www.parts.com/partlocator/in...=2004&graphicID=JC99760&callout=4&catalogid=2
Can I also use my Koni reds from my solid axle? As much as I would like to get some new shocks for this thing, my wallet says otherwise... I know, I know... wrong hobby to be in....Thanks.
Kevin
http://www.parts.com/partlocator/in...=2004&graphicID=JC99760&callout=4&catalogid=2
Can I also use my Koni reds from my solid axle? As much as I would like to get some new shocks for this thing, my wallet says otherwise... I know, I know... wrong hobby to be in....Thanks.
Kevin
IRS swaps are pretty easy.
The only thing is...and I'm not knocking putting the bolts through the trunk pan as that is how most people do it, but that method is a bit questionable as far as strength is concerned.
When people ask me about it, I suggest opening doors in the trunk pan over top of the frame rails first, and then drilling and affixing the rearend to the fram rail rather than the pan. Once that is done, you can tack weld the corners of the door down (do not bead the seam as you may have to get in there again) and seam seal the rest.
If you do it through the pan, I would recommend some reinforcing plates.
That is before the rearend was tightened down. The doors look ugly there, but once they are tacked down and sealed, it looks fine.
In this picture, you can see in the bottom right where it was sealed down.
The only thing is...and I'm not knocking putting the bolts through the trunk pan as that is how most people do it, but that method is a bit questionable as far as strength is concerned.
When people ask me about it, I suggest opening doors in the trunk pan over top of the frame rails first, and then drilling and affixing the rearend to the fram rail rather than the pan. Once that is done, you can tack weld the corners of the door down (do not bead the seam as you may have to get in there again) and seam seal the rest.
If you do it through the pan, I would recommend some reinforcing plates.
That is before the rearend was tightened down. The doors look ugly there, but once they are tacked down and sealed, it looks fine.
In this picture, you can see in the bottom right where it was sealed down.
Attachments
IRS swaps are pretty easy.
The only thing is...and I'm not knocking putting the bolts through the trunk pan as that is how most people do it, but that method is a bit questionable as far as strength is concerned.
When people ask me about it, I suggest opening doors in the trunk pan over top of the frame rails first, and then drilling and affixing the rearend to the fram rail rather than the pan. Once that is done, you can tack weld the corners of the door down (do not bead the seam as you may have to get in there again) and seam seal the rest.
If you do it through the pan, I would recommend some reinforcing plates.
That is before the rearend was tightened down. The doors look ugly there, but once they are tacked down and sealed, it looks fine.
Why not leave the body metal in place and drill your pilot holes all the way through the fame and body. After you drill the frame and body 1/4", use the drill size that matches the bolt size and drill just the frame. Then use a 3/4" or 7/8" hole saw on the body so you could directly access the frame area to hold the nuts with a socket or box end wrench. Much neater and a couple of cheap Body-Tite plastic plugs cover the holes.
Alternate plan: use the cutaway method and weld a piece of angle iron inside the frame to work as a stiffener or reinforcement
Attachments
Great idea with the access holes and body plugs. I was thinking about cutting windows in the side for access, but I like the top much better. This will also let me run my ground cable for the battery using one of these bolts without it sticking out in the hatch area.
Option 1 sounds like a winner to me. Probably a lot easier... at least for me... I get a bit carried away with angle grinders. I don't mind some nuts sticking up from floorpan of the trunk, would it be stronger to put a reinforcement plate on top and keep the frame "boxed"?
Seijirou. Thank you in advance if you have a moment to pull the part numbers for the brackets.
Kevin
Seijirou. Thank you in advance if you have a moment to pull the part numbers for the brackets.
Kevin
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