Granada Discs, T5 question, Pan Rust Question

65-Fstbk said:

I'm doing the Granada disc swap on my 65 FB. The car I have is currently a I6 but will be converted to the V8.

Is there some sort of sleeve that I can buy that will mate the outer tie rod from the Granada to the inner tie-rod on the Mustang?

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http://www.mustangsteve.com/granadadiscs.html

The whole article is useful but skip to part eight for your specific question.

Also, I'm thinking of putting a WC T5 into the car. Some say the tunnel needs to be cut and some say it doesn't bang. Too many comments from well meaning people who are speculating....has anyone actually done it and knows FOR SURE? I thought the tunnel cutout on a 65/66 is in the exact spot for a T5.

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It does, but it needs to be clearanced slightly so it doesn't hit. I had to remove about 3/8" of material on the PS of the opening.

There is a little floorpan rust right in the seam where the front floor bends up towards the firewall. It has gone through in a few spots but the majority of the surrounding pans are good and I don't want to cut them. Is there a good way to patch just that area? Any ideas?

Thanks for your help.

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You could cut down the replacment pannel and carefully section out the bad piece. Then butt weld it in place. If you're careful, you'll never see it.

You have to do some minor trimming for the shifter to clear

http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x98/88dragtop/shifterhole.jpg

65-Fstbk said:

What do you think?

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I think (if it was me) I wouldn't do the Granada conversion. But if you have to, you can change the outer tie rods to Granada units and get the adaptor sleves from Mustangs Plus. But I don't do projects that way. Not in business, not on cars, not on my house, not at all.

Here's how I do it.

1. Write down everything that you'd like to do. Try to come up with as complete a parts list as possible.

2. Budget time/parts/money to each thing you'd like to fix.

3. Break it up into functional areas and work on it as you can afford it and have time. To me, not driving a car between steps isn't a big deal, but for some it's a real deal breaker.

One could reasonably assume they wanted to:

1. Do the brake swap and axle swap and wheels and roll the fenders. Drive for a while while you look for other parts and save $$$ for #2.

2. Swap the drivetrain. Redo all the wiring and plumbing. See #1.

3. Change the seats and do the interior less the headliner. See #1.

4. Do a full rotisserie resto on all the cosmetic stuff since the drivetrain is all fixed up.

When they build full on pro cars, they do a "dry fit" where they literally do everything but drive the car. Sometimes they do that. They then dissasemble the whole car (!) and paint it because they know it won't puke when they go to start it. It takes about 40 man hours extra to do it this way, but it saves hundreds because you didn't forget about the parking brake handle or the seats that hit the roof or any other teething pains.......

88dragtop said:

You have to do some minor trimming for the shifter to clear

http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x98/88dragtop/shifterhole.jpg

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You have an ACC carpet kit don't you?

Does anyone make one that doesn't turn purple in the sun?

I used the Granada disc brake swap and am completely satisfied. I bought the disc setup with spindles and rotors off ebay and went to MustangPlus for the rest of the conversion. They have the tie rod parts and the brake lines needed to complete the install. Cost $300 complete!!!

I changed my I-6 front end over using Granada spindles. I just changed the whole steering to V8 at the same time. Inner/outer tie rods, draglink, and Idler all at once. No need for shims.

The only tunnel work I had to do when I put in my T5 was to open up the shifter hole a smidge.

www.midnightdsigns.com/james

65-Fstbk said:

Also, I'm thinking of putting a WC T5 into the car. Some say the tunnel needs to be cut and some say it doesn't bang. Too many comments from well meaning people who are speculating....has anyone actually done it and knows FOR SURE? I thought the tunnel cutout on a 65/66 is in the exact spot for a T5.

Click to expand...

I installed a '95 T-5 in my '65, which is about 3/4" longer than a Fox (87-93) T-5. The shifter is in exactly the right place to come up through the stock floor opening, and no trimming was required. That's what I know for SURE.

I've HEARD that trimming is generally required with the Fox T-5, although not a lot.