get a set of noid lights and hook it up to an injector harness. Crank it over when it's doing it's no start thing and see if you have pulsing. If it pulses, I'd look towards the coil or the ignition module overheating.
If it's not flashing, I'd look towards the PIP sensor (hall effect) inside the dizzy.
Also, I'd check your battery voltage. I don't think it has anything to do with your current problem...but, a low voltage can throw things off somewhat. Also check to make sure your grounds are in good shape.
If it's not flashing, I'd look towards the PIP sensor (hall effect) inside the dizzy.
Also, I'd check your battery voltage. I don't think it has anything to do with your current problem...but, a low voltage can throw things off somewhat. Also check to make sure your grounds are in good shape.
I like the bad battery or bad cable/connection idea of Matt's. The connection is borderline when cold but becomes resistive when hot. This can lead to a no-crank situation (though your voltmeter dropping like it did suggests a bad battery over a cable. I'd look into it). A batteyr can have ok potential (voltage) but crap its pants when hit with a large draw.
It could also be a starter that's on the outs (resistve and causing a massive draw when hot).
For the studder, I like Clay's idea. If it becomes more regular, I like to run a magnet around the dizzy bowl (ferrous material suggests PIP failure and possibly dizzy bushing failure, which took otu the PIP in the first place). I also douche the dizzy bowl with electrical contact cleaner.
:OT: Clay, did you get that issue worked out finally? PM me with the goods if you did. I'm curious.
It could also be a starter that's on the outs (resistve and causing a massive draw when hot).
For the studder, I like Clay's idea. If it becomes more regular, I like to run a magnet around the dizzy bowl (ferrous material suggests PIP failure and possibly dizzy bushing failure, which took otu the PIP in the first place). I also douche the dizzy bowl with electrical contact cleaner.
:OT: Clay, did you get that issue worked out finally? PM me with the goods if you did. I'm curious.
I'm interested in this... my mustang does this in the summer or when its warm and i've driven it a while. i shut it off and run in somewhere and i come back out and it gets 3/4 through the crank about to start and cuts everything.
-i've also noticed i have to crank alot longer than i used to, to get it to start ...
i've checked grounds and connections at battery, all good and new batt. if i wait like 10 or 15 then try again it barely gets it but starts just before it seems like it's going to cut out again. ....very annoyin when in a hurry. i have to leave it run pull the keys and lock it to run in somewhere... (not hijacking but the longer cranks i was leaning to fuel pump breaking down because i run the tank 1/4 tank or less makin it work harder to maintain pressure in the tank ..right? anyways ... possibly starter? and how would i load test the starter and what numbers should it be at or not at?
i know this is alot but i feel its along his same lines and could answer a question he might have if he was to slide under to the starter with a meter
...thanks for any help
-i've also noticed i have to crank alot longer than i used to, to get it to start ...
i've checked grounds and connections at battery, all good and new batt. if i wait like 10 or 15 then try again it barely gets it but starts just before it seems like it's going to cut out again. ....very annoyin when in a hurry. i have to leave it run pull the keys and lock it to run in somewhere... (not hijacking but the longer cranks i was leaning to fuel pump breaking down because i run the tank 1/4 tank or less makin it work harder to maintain pressure in the tank ..right? anyways ... possibly starter? and how would i load test the starter and what numbers should it be at or not at?
i know this is alot but i feel its along his same lines and could answer a question he might have if he was to slide under to the starter with a meter
...thanks for any help