GT40P heads... good deal?

jrp27540

Active Member
Sep 9, 2016
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#1
I have a chance to pick up a GT40P block and heads for $100. I'm really after the heads for my roller 302. Shopping around, it looks like $100 for the block and heads is a decent deal? Figured I could hock the block and get a bit back.

Any feedback if I'm thinking right on the price?

Anything I should look out for when I go look at it?

Thanks all!
 
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Feb 18, 2001
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#2
Are you going to use the block?

Overall I'd say that's about what they are worth. I have a set of 40ps I fished around for $100 with little bites. Dropping to $75 got them sold.
 

96pushrod

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May 15, 2018
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#3
I’d offer him $60 If he’s asking $100 lol

Regardless, $100 for a block and some gt40s is a pretty good deal, as long as the block hasn’t spun a main or anything major, and can be cleaned up with a light hone.
 

jrp27540

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Sep 9, 2016
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#4
I’d offer him $60 If he’s asking $100 lol

Regardless, $100 for a block and some gt40s is a pretty good deal, as long as the block hasn’t spun a main or anything major, and can be cleaned up with a light hone.
I started at $50 but couldn't get him below $100. Haven't committed to the $100 yet.
 

jrp27540

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Sep 9, 2016
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#5
Are you going to use the block?

Overall I'd say that's about what they are worth. I have a set of 40ps I fished around for $100 with little bites. Dropping to $75 got them sold.
Wasn't planning on using the block...but if it's in good shape...may not be bad to have a spare around...
 

jrp27540

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Sep 9, 2016
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#8
Finally got a pic of it. Doesn't tell me much other than it doesn't look like it's been sitting in the weather... Motor stand comes with it as well! Going to go lay eyes on it tomorrow.

image1.jpeg
 

jrp27540

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Sep 9, 2016
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#11
Yeah, $100 is fair. Block seems useable if the cylinder bores look ok.
What should I not want to see in the cylinder bores? I'm assuming the usual pitting, rust, bad ring ridge and scoring? Anything I would be missing?

Thanks!
 
Feb 18, 2001
30,049
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#12
You pretty much got it. I justwoukd want to make sure I'm not helping someone dispose of some scrap iron for them.
 

John Dirks Jr

5 Year Member
Jun 28, 2013
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#13
Pull the heads and look at the cylinder bores. I see the crank is gone. Are the pistons out of it too? If so, No way the heads haven’t been off already. Look at the head mating surface and make sure there hasn’t been excessive milling. Also, if he’ll let you, pull some valve springs and check for worn valve guides.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
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#14
For a hundred bucks you can't really lose 'cept maybe the time it takes to load it up and take it home. If the heads and block are junk you can still get an engine stand!
 

jrp27540

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Sep 9, 2016
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#15
Pull the heads and look at the cylinder bores. I see the crank is gone. Are the pistons out of it too? If so, No way the heads haven’t been off already. Look at the head mating surface and make sure there hasn’t been excessive milling. Also, if he’ll let you, pull some valve springs and check for worn valve guides.
Crank and pistons are in a box. Yes, I agree heads have been off. Thanks for the tips!
 

jrp27540

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Sep 9, 2016
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#16
Well I ended up getting it. Block and heads appeared to be in great shape. He had it covered well. He decided to go with a 351 instead so didn't need it. All the cylinder walls still had visible cross hatching and no noticeable ring ridge by feel. Didn't see any cracks or dings on surface mating surfaces. He also didn't end up having the internals/rotating assembly or lifters...but I was OK with that... The only issue I could find was a broken intake bolt in the head. Motor stand is in great shape to ;)

So this will be a budget build... So im trying to go used where possible. Few questions/thoughts if you guys want to weight in.
1: Could I get away with a set of used roller lifters and rockers?
2: Any recommendations on a brand for rotating assembly? Since the rotating assembly is already gone, I was going to move forward with a set of forged internals, including crank. Within the next year or so, I would like to add a on 3 turbo, so the forged crank would be nice in preparation for that.
3: I'm thinking either a b303 or a Trick Flow stage 1 cam. Anyone prefer one over the other for forced induction?
4: go 306 or stay 302? Is it really worth the extra cost in machine work if I go forced induction?
5: if I don't go 306, with the block being in good shape, could I just go with a hone job and clean the block up good myself or should I take it to a machine shop and pay to get it worked over with new freeze plugs and such?

Worth noting that my current motor has a upper and lower explorer intake already so I'll be using that. It also has a e303 cam that I could rob if I really needed to...

Thanks!
 

RangerJoe

I leave the horn on while driving
5 Year Member
Apr 26, 2010
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#17
Your cheapest bet will be to find a stock rotating assembly, better if you can find the whole short block. If not you are looking at buying a stroker kit, either 331 or 347. Don't waste money on a forged crank with the stock block, cast will be fine.

Honestly, if you are on a tight budget a stock, complete short block is your best bet. I think for a $100 you did just fine. I think you could sell the stock block for $50 without blinking.

Joe
 

90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
SN Certified Technician
Mar 2, 2015
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#18
This is my experienced opinion. If you want to go on3 keep the stroke as short as possible..... Meaning no stroker kit. The reason i say that is because the turbo itself can make way more power than the 302 block can handle.

Now that I've built a turbo 331 i see i should've done things differently.

  1. The 302 block normally has issues above 500hp
  2. You can run more boost on a arp studded stock block with good internals.
There's no real reason to spend a lot in stroker kits, extra machine work, and balancing. Wish I would've done a 306 with about 11psi.

With that said....if you use a forged crank, good pistons, good rods, have engine tapped for 1/2 arp studs, and get a good port job on heads and intake....you'll have lots of fun.

Ofcoarse, you'll need a bunch more than that....brakes...suspension....chassis....electrical....fuel....etc.
 

jrp27540

Active Member
Sep 9, 2016
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#19
This is my experienced opinion. If you want to go on3 keep the stroke as short as possible..... Meaning no stroker kit. The reason i say that is because the turbo itself can make way more power than the 302 block can handle.

Now that I've built a turbo 331 i see i should've done things differently.

  1. The 302 block normally has issues above 500hp
  2. You can run more boost on a arp studded stock block with good internals.
There's no real reason to spend a lot in stroker kits, extra machine work, and balancing. Wish I would've done a 306 with about 11psi.

With that said....if you use a forged crank, good pistons, good rods, have engine tapped for 1/2 arp studs, and get a good port job on heads and intake....you'll have lots of fun.

Ofcoarse, you'll need a bunch more than that....brakes...suspension....chassis....electrical....fuel....etc.
Thanks! Your thoughts are definitely in line with mine based off my research. Didn't think about the 1/2 ARP studs...good suggestion.

I already went through the suspension (UPR), brakes, parts of the fuel and electrical. I have sub frame connectors but haven't not installed yet.
 

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