gunna be buying some more suspension relatively soon

[RedDaemon]

just got done doing some research and i think im a Tokico and KYB fan but that really isnt the issue

ive come to the conclusion that being that my car has 85k on the clock with the stock shocks and struts WITH steeda lowering springs for about a year now...i think theyre starting to give out

realizing this i went to some sites and priced out KYB AGX shocks struts as well as Tokicos line

my question is...do i really need the 5 way adjustable shocks on a DD? would it be worth it to get the 5 way adjustables?

i could save loads of money buy getting the non adjustable type...however i want to get whats best for my car

 

[Kilgore Trout]

Starting to wear out? The stock dampers are only good for 15k and that is with the correct springs.

You are going to feel a big difference

You should look around www.maximummotorsports.com and check out thier matched sets and technical articles.

Personally I would not get ones that have too many adjustments because I would probably just endlessly screw with them...

 

[bakos24]

I dont think it will be worth it with the adjustables on a dd. If you think about it, how many times are you actually going to adjust them. . Maybe once when you first put them on.

The Tokico HP I think would be the way to go. I heard they are pretty good for the price. I plan on getting those for my x-mas present . If price is not a issue Bilsteins all the way

 

[RedDaemon]

Starting to wear out? The stock dampers are only good for 15k and that is with the correct springs.

Personally I would not get ones that have too many adjustments because I would probably just endlessly screw with them...

yea theres a thread in 4.6 talk that kinda confirmed it for me...ive been denying that my car sits average for the springs i have but in reality its a little high now...

my personal server at my house is down which has some early pictures on it of my car since ive owned it but i remember taking some pictures when i first installed them and boy did it look "slammed" compared to how it looks now


i think id be the same way about the adjustable settings...id play with them all the time too

if the GR-2's perform like the AGXs...minus the adjustability...then ill nab those...or the Tocikos..thats a different story

 

[BennyBlown2v]

Bilsteins. Best shock/strut for daily driving, period. Life time warranty as well. They perform f'ing amazing at the strip and circuit as well.

 

[RedDaemon]

I dont think it will be worth it with the adjustables on a dd. If you think about it, how many times are you actually going to adjust them. . Maybe once when you first put them on.

The Tokico HP I think would be the way to go. I heard they are pretty good for the price. I plan on getting those for my x-mas present . If price is not a issue Bilsteins all the way

dont know much about the bilsteins..enlighten me on why theyre better

 

[san~man]

If you're considering the Tokiko illuminas, and you don't want/need/or going to use the adjustability (most don't in the end), IMO get the Bilsteins. Best for the money, best warranty.

 

[bakos24]

dont know much about the bilsteins..enlighten me on why theyre better

Bilsteins are pretty much the best ones you can get. Most dont get them because of the price. But they do have life time warranty which is defiantly a plus. I think the cheapest place for Bilsteins is stangsuspension, at least thats cheapest I have found.

 

[BennyBlown2v]

stangsuspension also has a coupon code for Stangnet people...

ebay is actually best prices for Bilsteins usually.

They just own thats why they is betta No really though, after running Tokico HP's (basically illuminas on medium valving) I would never go back. The ride quality is awesome, and they help the car stay SO flat and reduce wheel hop, increase grip, and own

 

[RedDaemon]

ill consider them!

 

[Mustangless]

I have the tokico 5 ways. The front gets adjusted 1-2 every 2 months (for the strip), but the back has always stayed on 3. They are just too hard to get to.

 

[BennyBlown2v]

I have the tokico 5 ways. The front gets adjusted 1-2 every 2 months (for the strip), but the back has always stayed on 3. They are just too hard to get to.

Why not just notch the trunk liner "shells"? You could even put some velcro on there and cover the hole with a peice of carpeting!

 

[Torinalth]

to answer yer question, you will prolly never play with the adjustments after the first week... aside from that, do you really know why you are to adjust them? and what the results are? what to look for? if no to any of these, then i really wouldnt bother. Bilsteins for sure. single tube large valve construction make them last a lot longer before starting to fade in dampenig ability.

the bilsteins do offer the lifetime warranty, however its kinda weak (for dampeners in general) as you have to yank them, and ship them back to the manu to get em fixed... but they do have an absurdly long lifespan and VERY VERY few DOAs. I myself have the HDs, and while i like them i will be replacing them wit the Bilsteing Sport valved dampeners to support more spring rate when i go to coilovers. so if yer not going to buy immediatly... but say in 2-4 months... might wanna keep me in mind

on a side note, MM uses bilsteins exclusivly in all their packaged systems. they know the benefits and it resides in al their shop owned cars... Bilsteins just rock all.

Torinalth

 

[ocbaud]

i am in your shoes, i've got about the same miles on my car, and have been running sportlines for about a year... haha

i'm picking up a used set of bilsteins from a friend(under 3,000 miles on them) for $400

i also have the following coming from stangsuspension:
m/m full length subframes
m/m caster camber plates
offset steering rack bushings

 

[BennyBlown2v]

i am in your shoes, i've got about the same miles on my car, and have been running sportlines for about a year... haha

i'm picking up a used set of bilsteins from a friend(under 3,000 miles on them) for $400

i also have the following coming from stangsuspension:
m/m full length subframes
m/m caster camber plates
offset steering rack bushings

Offset bushings are gonna screw up your geometry and promote bumpsteer unless you have an aftermarket K-member which is specifically designed for off-center bushings. If your order hasn't shipped yet call stang suspension and have them swap em out with center-drilled Aluminum bushings from Maximum Motorsports, or center-hole urethane units.

 

[ocbaud]

Offset bushings are gonna screw up your geometry and promote bumpsteer unless you have an aftermarket K-member which is specifically designed for off-center bushings. If your order hasn't shipped yet call stang suspension and have them swap em out with center-drilled Aluminum bushings from Maximum Motorsports, or center-hole urethane units.

http://www.stangsuspension.com/store/comersus_viewitem.asp?idproduct=97

"Prothane polyurethane rack bushings reduce unwanted steering rack deflection, for quicker steering response and more accurate control. Offset bushings raise the steering rack, to maintain proper steering geometry on lowered Mustangs and reduce 'bump steer."

this is the first i've heard of them causing problems

 

[BennyBlown2v]

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3_86&products_id=466

MM knows there stuff - they've even swayed me away from more expensive parts in the past because they simply don't help as much as they cost. Give them a call, Chris should be able to explain the problem in great detail lol.

Also, I've had offset rack bushings. They were absolute ****! They are almost impossible to get in the rack ABSOLUTELY square, unless of course you take the rack off of the car completely and then install them (pain in the ass); then still they tend to rotate in the rack mounts, thusly alternating your toe significantly. If a center drilled bushings rotates...it's still on center

 

[ocbaud]

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3_86&products_id=466

MM knows there stuff - they've even swayed me away from more expensive parts in the past because they simply don't help as much as they cost. Give them a call, Chris should be able to explain the problem in great detail lol.

Also, I've had offset rack bushings. They were absolute ****! They are almost impossible to get in the rack ABSOLUTELY square, unless of course you take the rack off of the car completely and then install them (pain in the ass); then still they tend to rotate in the rack mounts, thusly alternating your toe significantly. If a center drilled bushings rotates...it's still on center

damnit, i should have searched more when i ordered them. i guess i'll be returning them for the center bushings.

actually is it even worth replacing the stock rubber ones? or would i be better off spending the money on new shorter endlinks for the front bar?

 

[Kilgore Trout]

Offset bushings are for lowered cars and whether you k-member is stock or not is completely irrelevant.

 

[BennyBlown2v]

Offset bushings are for lowered cars and whether you k-member is stock or not is completely irrelevant.

Umm, no. Unless your car is bumpsteer-corrected using lowered tie rod ends you cannot reduce the bumpsteer created by offset bushings even down to an ACCEPTABLE level.

Changing the position of the rack relative to the K-member is all that offset rack bushings do anyway. In turn this changes the angle at which the tie rod ends meet the spindles, which is the intended function of the bushings... If the car has a stock geometry K-member it has been shown that it is not neccesary to alter the racks mounting point; EVEN if the ride height of the car has been altered. Best way to reduce bumpsteer is a tie-rod end kit. Offset bushings flat out DO NOT work in stock-K cars to an acceptable degree, and unless installed COMPLETELY square (like I said, nearly impossible in my opinion) they leave you with a rack which is high on one side and low on the other.

And ocbaud, yes rack bushings are a great upgrade! Stock bushings are soft, deflect like crazy, and tend to be VERY noisy after a rainy/cold season when the rubber starts to break down.