H/C/I No Start

Strype · Oct 18, 2009

liljoe07 said:
Drops to 0psi in 2 minutes or less?

not until we adjusted it down. I dont see fuel but i smelled it last try. Was holding friday and no smell
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liljoe07 · Oct 18, 2009

Just turn the key on and let the pressure build to whatever it builds to. Turn the key off, and see how fast the pressure Bleeds down.

Strype · Oct 18, 2009

liljoe07 said:
Just turn the key on and let the pressure build to whatever it builds to. Turn the key off, and see how fast the pressure Bleeds down.

will try in a few minutes when the kid goes nite nite

Strype · Oct 18, 2009

66sprint6 said:
Did you put the vacuum line back on? If not, then the fuel pressure will stay the same always and forever regardless of RPM and the likes. Read slowly and go do it, trust me, it works and will make your headaches go away.

1)pull vacuum line OFF of regulator
2)pug or clamp said vacuum line
3)start car and let idle
4)set fuel pressure to 39-40psi
5)PUT VACUUM LINE BACK ON REGULATOR
6)enjoy :o)

Trust us, this is the way to do it and it has cure plenty of my problems in the past and is hopefully fixin to solve another one for me here shortly lol.
Good Luck
Matt

aaaahhh Something else to try

Strype · Oct 18, 2009

A) Fuel Pressure:

Okay when the ignition is turned to the on position, without trying to crank, the inline guage spikes to 50 for a split second then starts dropping from 40. It drops quickly to 20 within a few seconds and from 20 to 10 in about 30-40 seconds total. When it hits 10 it takes another 30 seconds to get to 5, and from 5 is when I quit counting because it sat at 3-5 for so long.

So from 5 it takes a few minutes to get to 0. The drop to 5 takes about a minute. Note that these fuel rails are HUGE and I have an AFPR. I see no gas under the plenum, at the fuel rails or at the injectors, or on the ground. I can hear a swishing sound at the fpr as it primes but I take it that's the gas hitting the FPR?

B) Timing

The motor would spit and sputter where I had the the dizzy pointing to the #1 plug at 12:00. I looked at a picture I took before the build, and at my markings and restabbed the dizzy 2 teeth over to get that picture again. The dizzy now sits where every mustang I've ever worked on sits. The #1 is at about 1:30 or 2:00, the rotor is pointing directly at that plug wire on the cap, the balancer reads 10. A build shouldn't change that correct? I should be DEAD on with the timing, cam was installed straight up. It is sitting where it was before the build, and I have markings to prove it.

Fordman1995 · Oct 18, 2009

Are you sure you rocker arms has not backed off? I had my do a lot like your and my rocker arms was loses.

liljoe07 · Oct 18, 2009

Thats way too quick.

id say you have a faulty Fuel reg, stuck injector, or bad check valve in the pump. The check valve i wouldnt worry about.

if you had some hose pliers, you could prime the pump till it stops, then pinch off the supply and return line at a soft spot on the fuel lines. then turn the key off, and see how fast the pressure drops. If it drops fast again, its an injector problem. If it doesnt, then do the same again, just leave the return line not pinched off. And if pressure drops it the Regulator. Im thinking its probably the injectors since 1 and 4 plugs were gas soaked. Just another thing to try.

Strype · Oct 18, 2009

Fordman1995 said:
Are you sure you rocker arms has not backed off? I had my do a lot like your and my rocker arms was loses.

Your rockers were loose or tight? I had a feeling earlier today that might be the case. It's almost like a cylinder isn't firing.

I have a cheap arse torque wrench that I set to 15 or 18 I don't remember. I shimmed them to make sure they didn't take more than a half turn or something I don't remember.

A loose rocker would cause stuttering and backfiring?

Strype · Oct 18, 2009

liljoe07 said:
Thats way too quick.

id say you have a faulty Fuel reg, stuck injector, or bad check valve in the pump. The check valve i wouldnt worry about.

if you had some hose pliers, you could prime the pump till it stops, then pinch off the supply and return line at a soft spot on the fuel lines. then turn the key off, and see how fast the pressure drops. If it drops fast again, its an injector problem. If it doesnt, then do the same again, just leave the return line not pinched off. And if pressure drops it the Regulator. Im thinking its probably the injectors since 1 and 4 plugs were gas soaked. Just another thing to try.

Hmmm...

Return comes off the FPR right?

This is a brand new AFPR, I don't remember what brand. The injectors are the 19#ers that I was running before the build.

As I said though the oil really smells like gas.

Also the fuel pressure does not stay while the ignition is in the on position, it drops whether the ignition is on or off at the same rate. If I can get out and run fast enough I may try to clamp those hoses. I can leave the return clamped either way right?

Strype · Oct 18, 2009

What I mean is can I pinch off the return line while it's priming? If the return line is pinched off, and the pressure still drops I'd know I had a stuck injector or bad fpr right?

Strype · Oct 18, 2009

I still have the stock fuel pump in. I didn't want to change it until I got the car cranked. The new fuel lines are huge.

Fordman1995 · Oct 18, 2009

I would check my rocker arms! My is running Great know! It was doing the same thing your is to.

Strype · Oct 19, 2009

Fordman1995 said:
I would check my rocker arms! My is running Great know! It was doing the same thing your is to.

I'll check them out tonight.

67coupe · Oct 19, 2009

Are you still trying to start the engine with the spout out?

If so, put it back in. With the spout out, the computer cannot control timing advance and will be locked to only your initial timing. This could be anywhere between 10 BTDC to 10 ATDC.

Strype · Oct 19, 2009

oops

Well I wore the battery down for nothing

67coupe · Oct 19, 2009

It probably wont fix your miss, but it will definitely be easier to start/idle, then diagnose from there.

67coupe · Oct 19, 2009

Also, once it's running, throw a light on it and set the timing accurately. Even though the timing marks are at 10 BTDC and rotor is pointing at the #1 terminal, the actual timing could be +/- 5 degrees.

Strype · Oct 19, 2009

Will do.

To Do List (incase I get sidetracked I will have this wonderful interweb record):

a) Charge battery
b) Put in spout plug
c) Attempt crank
d) Check rockers
e) Attempt crank
f) Try a different FPR
g) Attempt crank
h) Push into street
i) Set afire

Lawbreaker5.0 · Oct 19, 2009

just incase i missed it? what injectors are you running? are they new or used?

i just had the exact same issue. i thought was going to die trying to figure it out. ended up being the used injectors i bought. i put the other used injectors (lol) in that i had before and fired up first time.

Strype · Oct 19, 2009

Oh I've already been thru injector problems so I put the stockers back in! I already pulled my hair out a few times- This build started in MARCH.

BTW, Did you guys know that if you inadvertantly pulled the PCV valve out while putting the intake on that it would sputter and pop?

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