H/C/I & Supercharger ques for 95GT

[rowekmr]

I just got a 95 Convertible GT with 65 TB, CAI, MSD 6A and flowmasters. It needs a trans (got a Stage II built/2K stall coming) so I haven't driven yet but I figure this combo only has gained a few hp over stock but its sounds good. I will put in headers and probably a catted X or H pipe but if its exempt from emission testing no cats I pondered the H/C/I route but love the sound of a supercharger. I see that TFS have a top end kit that they claim 360 hp but saw somewhere that their rating is generous (more like 310-320hp).
I am on a budget (tight) so I am looking at used pieces. I have found a used Procharger DS1 and a Vortech S supercharger. What are the pros and cons of each? How much boost is good for my combination? What kind power can I look forward to? I am trying to get 350-400 rwhp.
Would this have to be tuned or does the FMU compensate? Would I need to add heads or intake or cam to meet my goal or can I do it on boost alone?Any cams that will improve hp (and sound good) but not harm driveability and cruising mpg's?

 

[revhead347]

The Trick Flow kit is one of the better for stock pistons despite the high rating. If you are doing both, you might want to consider a more blower friendly cam. Both superchargers are good quality. The Procharger is designed to run with an air to air intercooler, which is preferable. FMUs are dinosaurs and don't work very well. A good tune and proper injector size do a much better job.

Kurt

 

[final5-0]

A few things I saw in your original post

The TFS h/c/i kit at 360 hp is in the ballpark for sure
but ... keep in mind
Several things need to be said about that rating

It is a rating at the motor and not at the rearwheels
It is for a stick trans and would be about 15% less at the wheels
The drive line loss with an auto trans will be more than 15%
That rating will only be obtainable with ALL supporting parts
That combo will very likely need a tune for max power/drivability

Now ... The route using a blower

Yes ... You can use a fmu and get by without a tune
but
Like the max effort NA combo above

A tune will bring out max power and stock like drivability

Also ... It would seem to me that in the case of going NA .......
A 2K stall tc will not be high enough

Grady

 

[rowekmr]

How much stall do you recommend? How difficult is it to use the tuner? Do you recommend that model tuner?

A few things I saw in your original post

The TFS h/c/i kit at 360 hp is in the ballpark for sure
but ... keep in mind
Several things need to be said about that rating

It is a rating at the motor and not at the rearwheels
It is for a stick trans and would be about 15% less at the wheels
The drive line loss with an auto trans will be more than 15%
That rating will only be obtainable with ALL supporting parts
That combo will very likely need a tune for max power/drivability

Now ... The route using a blower

Yes ... You can use a fmu and get by without a tune
but
Like the max effort NA combo above

A tune will bring out max power and stock like drivability

Also ... It would seem to me that in the case of going NA .......
A 2K stall tc will not be high enough

Grady

 

[final5-0]

It would seem to me something closer to 3k than 2K would be better
for a car the weight of our cars but I will ask those who are into the
auto trans thing to give input in this thread that will be based upon
experience with our Stangs

These days, self tuning folk seem to go with the quarter horse as
opposed to the older Tweecer interface which I used back in the day

Like most methods of self tuning, you need to have some basic
knowledge about why you would + or - spark or fuel

One thing to think about with self tuning

If you can datalog, you can use the data to help you see what your
combo needs

Grady

 

[rowekmr]

I understand the basics with tuning with spark and fuel mixture but not too much of the rest. I had planned on having a pro do it, I would hate to mess up things I just got. I also was interested in getting it dyno'ed.

 

[Venom351R]

Get it dyno tuned, that way you get your dyno numbers and you get it tuned all in one shot. I have mine tuned with an SCT Chip and the initial cost was $450 and its $150 for any re tunes after that

 

[YEAHLOH95]

to meet your gaols yo will need to do both and both blowers will get you there and a tune will finish it off my car made 425 to the wheels untuned and an additional 30 after the tune

 

[rowekmr]

Thanks so much for the info thus far you guys are really helping me out. I know I need the stall with the n/a top end approach but if I got with both do I still need the stall or does the blower add down low where the cam lost power?