h-pipe first timer installation

[89droptop50]

i just got my h-pipes from summitracing.com and im anxious to get them on but i havent got a clue on how to do it. i have all basic tools and some more extra tools and a jack and all that i jus want to get them on and hear how them babies sound!! can someone show me pictures or just walk me through how to install them myself please!!

 

[time only]

If you have a basic set of SAE and Metric wrenchs and sockets you will be alright,you also need a long extension or connected up two for the nuts on the header flange.a Oxygen Sensor socket( $ 8-9 ) from the local auto part store will come in handy so is the WD 40 and Anti-seize.
This could be done by one person but will be easier if you have a extra pair of hands to moved things around. Give yourself a 1/2 day for the first time .
Jack up the car as high as possible,spray WD 40 on all the header flange nut etc . There is no need to removed the muffler/tail pipe etc,but the bolts and nuts could be loosing to aid in the whole process. Removed the header flange bolts from both sides and the transmission cross member,now is the time to replace the factory rubber parts with the aftermarker mount and bushings.disconnect the Oxyen Sensor wires now will be a good time,you could remove the Sensor later. You could eyeball the whole thing under the car and the whole H-pipe will drop as a unit. Be careful it is heavy,around 40-50 lbs and it will hurt if you are not careful when it did. Some wiggle around with the pipe is alway a given. I alway let the H-pipe down slowly and take the weight on my chest and then slid it or myself out from under the car.
That is the hard part,now it is just a matter of R/R the Oxygen Sensor making sure you coated the thread with the Anti-seize compund. The Off road pipe weight only like 15 lbs so it is far easier to move it around under the car. Take your time and the bolt location should be the same as stock.

 

[jtfairlane]

H-Pipes? Them? I hope you only bought one.

What type of H-pipe is this? Catted for shorty headers, catless for shorty headers, catted for full length headers, or catless for full length headers?

Installing an H-pipe by yourself, on your back, would be a huge pain in the ass if it's a catted H-Pipe for shorty headers. It would also be a pain in the ass, though less heavy, if it was a catless H-Pipe for shorty headers.

If it's an H-Pipe for full length headers, it wouldn't be as bad to do by yourself on your back.

Jack the front of your car up as high as you can and place jackstands underneath it.
Spray WD-40 or Break free or something similar on the H-Pipe to header bolts and the H-pipe to cat back bolts (if they are stock/rusty, etc) If necessary remove the oxygen sensors from your existing H-Pipe. Remove the two nuts from the two studs on each h-pipe to header connection. Remove the two bolts/nuts from the h-pipe to cat back connection. Remove the existing h-pipe. Installing your new H-pipe is a reverse of that procedure.

 

[jtfairlane]

If you have a basic set of SAE and Metric wrenchs and sockets you will be alright,you also need a long extension or connected up two for the nuts on the header flange.a Oxygen Sensor socket( $ 8-9 ) from the local auto part store will come in handy so is the WD 40 and Anti-seize.
This could be done by one person but will be easier if you have a extra pair of hands to moved things around. Give yourself a 1/2 day for the first time .
Jack up the car as high as possible,spray WD 40 on all the header flange nut etc . There is no need to removed the muffler/tail pipe etc,but the bolts and nuts could be loosing to aid in the whole process. Removed the header flange bolts from both sides and the transmission cross member,now is the time to replace the factory rubber parts with the aftermarker mount and bushings.disconnect the Oxyen Sensor wires now will be a good time,you could remove the Sensor later. You could eyeball the whole thing under the car and the whole H-pipe will drop as a unit. Be careful it is heavy,around 40-50 lbs and it will hurt if you are not careful when it did. Some wiggle around with the pipe is alway a given. I alway let the H-pipe down slowly and take the weight on my chest and then slid it or myself out from under the car.
That is the hard part,now it is just a matter of R/R the Oxygen Sensor making sure you coated the thread with the Anti-seize compund. The Off road pipe weight only like 15 lbs so it is far easier to move it around under the car. Take your time and the bolt location should be the same as stock.

LOL, you beat me to it!

 

[cevtv]

H-Pipes? Them? I hope you only bought one.

The Summit pipe is a 2-piece, probably what he meant. One thing I found with the Summit pipe is the passenger side is a little too short after the H, making the tailpipe too short to pass the bumper.

 

[SVT32VDOHC]

Make sure you have some breaker bars if you don't have air tools. When I was 17 the header bolts on my friends Hpipe were super tight. My big biceps got them loose, but I had a headache after from the straining. Right after that I found a shop that put mine on for 40 bucks cash no reciept. WELL WORTH IT!!!

 

[time only]

Make sure you have some breaker bars if you don't have air tools. When I was 17 the header bolts on my friends Hpipe were super tight. My big biceps got them loose, but I had a headache after from the straining. Right after that I found a shop that put mine on for 40 bucks cash no reciept. WELL WORTH IT!!!

Well worth if you could get someone to do it for you.. You will get sore muscle for the next few days. Might have to look around as most shop won't touch this job ( Removing Emission control stuff ).

BTW Wear safety glasses as junk in your eyes is no fun.

 

[SVT32VDOHC]

True!!!! I stopped at like 5 shops during that week of searching. This one was a hole in the wall...but they spoke English...(that is hard to find around here now)

Now I am 25, and I look back at the shop I took it to......there is no way I would leave my car with them now. But I was young back then, I didn't think about stuff like that.

 

[91foxbod50]

no comment

 

[Mustang78]

H pipes and exhaust get easier when you have to pull it off and on 6 times.. it's the transmission that sucks to replace, especially on your back in the gravel

 

[jrichker]

Here’s some help for removing the air tube from the H pipe...

Try removing the bolts from the upper mounting bracket at the rear of the engine, and then loosen the clamp on the air tube by the cats. Then get a BIG pair of ViseGrip pliers (you really didn't hear me say that), clamp down hard on the tube about 1 1/2" from the clamp and pound away on the ViseGrips. It will come off if you keep at it.

In really stubborn cases, drill a 1/8" hole all the way thru the air tube 1 1/2" from the clamp, put a nail, pin punch or whatever in the hole, seat the ViseGrips up against the nail or pin punch and pound away on the ViseGrips. This is a better method, as you can do the same thing in reverse to put the old tube back on, with some clever means to cover or fill the hole (weld, braze, sheet metal screws, hose clamps and hi temp hose, etc.).

A replacement air tube cost me $44+ at Advance Discount Auto Parts, plus the air check valve didn't come with it - another $17+, so reuse when and where possible if your money is limited.

 

[strtrcr50]

If you are doing this without air tools, don't forget band aids for when the header bolts break loose and you smash your knuckles.

 

[Repostyle]

Here’s some help for removing the air tube from the H pipe...

Try removing the bolts from the upper mounting bracket at the rear of the engine, and then loosen the clamp on the air tube by the cats. Then get a BIG pair of ViseGrip pliers (you really didn't hear me say that), clamp down hard on the tube about 1 1/2" from the clamp and pound away on the ViseGrips. It will come off if you keep at it.

In really stubborn cases, drill a 1/8" hole all the way thru the air tube 1 1/2" from the clamp, put a nail, pin punch or whatever in the hole, seat the ViseGrips up against the nail or pin punch and pound away on the ViseGrips. This is a better method, as you can do the same thing in reverse to put the old tube back on, with some clever means to cover or fill the hole (weld, braze, sheet metal screws, hose clamps and hi temp hose, etc.).

I just used a cutoff wheel and re-welded mine. A Sawsall (sp?) with a metal blade would work too.

If you are doing this without air tools, don't forget band aids for when the header bolts break loose and you smash your knuckles.

And yes, the chances are good that you are going to have to weld it up yourself. I asked a shop if they would weld mine and they told me they would lose their license and get a $25,000 fine for working on an un-catted H, but they will still work on the rest of the exhaust.

 

[MotiV8ed_95GT]

I found it easier to remove the entire air tube and leave it connected to the stock H. I then just put a plug in the short rubber hose so I no longer have that air tube.

Ross