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Fox Harmonic balancer questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter Deleted member 215073
  • Start date Start date Sep 8, 2019
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Deleted member 215073

Sep 8, 2019
#1
  • Sep 8, 2019
  • #1
My 1993 GT needs a new balancer. The engine is completely stock.

I want to buy the best dampener available that fits without modifications so what are my options?

Fluidampr
ATI
Ford Performance
Romac

Any others I should look at? I've read on Google searches that the Fluidampr won't fit without clearancing the water pump and timing cover, same with the Ford Performance unit. Is that true? What do you recommend?
 

deathb4dismount

Crap, didn’t realize my crotch was in that picture
15 Year Member
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Sep 8, 2019
#2
  • Sep 8, 2019
  • #2

Ford Performance Mustang Harmonic Balancer w/ Pointer - 50oz (82-95) M-6316-M50

Replace your defective balancer with this Ford Performance 1982-1995 Mustang 5.0 harmonic balancer!
lmr.com
 
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Potomus Pete

I'm still waiting for the fully nude shots
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Sep 8, 2019
#3
  • Sep 8, 2019
  • #3
deathb4dismount said:

Ford Performance Mustang Harmonic Balancer w/ Pointer - 50oz (82-95) M-6316-M50

Replace your defective balancer with this Ford Performance 1982-1995 Mustang 5.0 harmonic balancer!
lmr.com
Click to expand...
Supposed to be exact match
 
D

Deleted member 215073

Sep 8, 2019
#4
  • Sep 8, 2019
  • #4
I want much better than a stock replacement one.
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
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Sep 8, 2019
#5
  • Sep 8, 2019
  • #5
The best available is the Pioneer SFI approved Elastomer balancer. If you asked 5 years ago on StangNet, 10 people would have replied immediately with this balancer. It has the SFI approved safety ring, so the outer piece won't seperate from the crank. The factory elastomer design actually dampens vibrations better than the fluid filled designs. The link is for the factory 50 oz imbalance.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pio-872030/overview/year/1995/make/ford/model/mustang

Kurt
 

96pushrod

I think they're a little easier to get off
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Sep 8, 2019
#6
  • Sep 8, 2019
  • #6
I run an innovators west balancer on my engine. It looks great and I didn’t need to clearance anything.

Not cheap though.
 
D

Deleted member 215073

Sep 8, 2019
#7
  • Sep 8, 2019
  • #7
Price isn't a concern.
 

96pushrod

I think they're a little easier to get off
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Sep 8, 2019
#8
  • Sep 8, 2019
  • #8
JMGlasgow said:
Price isn't a concern.
Click to expand...
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/inw-204x50
 
D

Deleted member 215073

Sep 8, 2019
#9
  • Sep 8, 2019
  • #9
Thanks for the link
 

Potomus Pete

I'm still waiting for the fully nude shots
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Sep 8, 2019
#10
  • Sep 8, 2019
  • #10
As someone who knows little about balancers , but will need one when its not so hot. How important is one . Im thinking in terms of shaking at high rev.
 
D

Deleted member 215073

Sep 8, 2019
#11
  • Sep 8, 2019
  • #11
They take the bad harmonics out of an engine, as well as balance the engine unless it's a zero balance. From what I understand they are very important.

This video is what leads me to buy a good one:

View: https://youtu.be/V1hX1liR7r8
 
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revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
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#12
  • Sep 8, 2019
  • #12
Everyone I have spoken too tells me that the elastomer balancers are actually better than the fluid filled ones. It is honestly more complicated than I understand. There are two types of vibrations. In a Small Block Ford, one out weighs the other, and the elastomer balancer dampens it better.

On high revving race engines, the fluid one has some advantages. Keep in mind, we are talking about race cars that operate between 7000 and 9000 rpms. So if you don't have an expensive 4 bolt main block, the fluid balancer is not going to help you.

Kurt
 
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D

Deleted member 215073

Sep 8, 2019
#13
  • Sep 8, 2019
  • #13
Does one outweigh the other because the engine isn't internally balanced?
 

JD1964

there is enough sticking out to grab on to
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#14
  • Sep 8, 2019
  • #14
Are you doing engine work where the rotating assemble will be dismantled? If so I recommend having the individual components of the rotating assembly balanced. They weigh each connecting rod and shave them all down to the same weight as the lightest one and balance by shaving weight from each rod end. They weigh all pistons and determine the lightest one then remove material from the others so they all weigh exactly the same. They assemble the crank with balancer and flywheel and and balance that separately. In the end you get a very well balanced assembly that can spin at much higher rpm and survive.

It will free up power otherwise lost to imbalance. If you're doing even a moderately serious rebuild, I can't imaging not taking these extra steps. Worth every penny it cost me. $75 is what I paid extra for these tasks and to me that seems low.
 

deathb4dismount

Crap, didn’t realize my crotch was in that picture
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Sep 8, 2019
#15
  • Sep 8, 2019
  • #15
You have a stock engine, you don’t need anything more than the stock replacement
 
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D

Deleted member 215073

Sep 8, 2019
#16
  • Sep 8, 2019
  • #16
No engine work at all. This car only has 52k miles on it. It needs a new balancer though. It's wobbling and I'm getting a vibration at idle and at higher rpm's.
 
D

Deleted member 215073

Sep 8, 2019
#17
  • Sep 8, 2019
  • #17
deathb4dismount said:
You have a stock engine, you don’t need anything more than the stock replacement
Click to expand...
Why? Wouldn't a better balancer dampen bad harmonics more efficiently?
 

JD1964

there is enough sticking out to grab on to
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Sep 8, 2019
#18
  • Sep 8, 2019
  • #18
Race dampers are made with various designs so they wont come apart under the rigors of racing. That's mostly what makes them more expensive. Bad harmonics are from imbalance components within the rotating assembly. If any damper does it's job it will soften the vibration and loss of poor balancing. But, the expensive ones will always stay together. In any event, you can't expect an expensive one (or a cheap one) to cancel out the losses of a poorly balanced rotating assembly.
 
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nickyb

I gotta say i never painted my nuts, Never Ever
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Sep 8, 2019
#19
  • Sep 8, 2019
  • #19
deathb4dismount said:
You have a stock engine, you don’t need anything more than the stock replacement
Click to expand...
I absolutely agree,stock motor only needs stock balancer.
 
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TOOLOW91

If you're the village idiot what's that make me?
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Sep 8, 2019
#20
  • Sep 8, 2019
  • #20
That frpp replacement is JUNK last one I saw didn’t even have timing marks and rubber was already seperating

Powerbond PB1084ss . Made by gates . Sfi approved . No hubs or adapters needed for the crank pulley . Timing marks are laser etched
 
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