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Having problems after major upgrades, help EFI guys!

  • Thread starter Thread starter 88MustangLX
  • Start date Start date Mar 2, 2004
8

88MustangLX

New Member
Jul 29, 2003
44
0
0
Chilliwack BC
Mar 2, 2004
#1
  • Mar 2, 2004
  • #1
Ok guys long story.

I bought a 92 Mustang 5spd convert that had a blower a stock engine. Powerdyne with FMU and bypass. Had all exhaust, upgraded Mass air to 73mm. The block was cracked so I had to do an engine swap. I put in a freshly rebuilt 306 with port and polished edelbrock performer heads, trickflow trackheat upper/lower intake, b303 cam, 1.7 cobra rockers, 70mm TB/EGR, 30lb injectors. It's got forged pistons. I got the car running properly other than a small exhaust leak on the driver side header collector and it idles fine when timed properly but whenever I give it gas it dies. I adjusted the TPS. Everything looks to be hooked up properly. The low oil sensor isn't in there but I don't think it would cause the problem. So I give it gas, it kind of sputters out and stalls then will not start after. The injectors do not inject and it only fires on one cylinder. I have to pull the battery off to reset the computer for it to be able to start again. The supercharger is still on right now. Oil pressures good, everything seems to be working ok other than the stall problem. It idles at 800ish RPM but if I give it gas and get it over 1200-1300 RPM it stalls. This is driving me nuts, its been 2 months since the car was last cruisin around. Anyone have ANY ideas please?
 

jrichker

StangNet's favorite TOOL
In Remembrance. Thank you for your contributions
Mar 10, 2000
27,512
2,811
234
Dublin GA
Mar 2, 2004
#2
  • Mar 2, 2004
  • #2
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
 
8

88MustangLX

New Member
Jul 29, 2003
44
0
0
Chilliwack BC
Mar 2, 2004
#3
  • Mar 2, 2004
  • #3
jrichker said:
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
Click to expand...


How much does a device to pull codes cost? Instead of doing it all manually that is.
 

jrichker

StangNet's favorite TOOL
In Remembrance. Thank you for your contributions
Mar 10, 2000
27,512
2,811
234
Dublin GA
Mar 2, 2004
#4
  • Mar 2, 2004
  • #4
Spend $25 for a code scanner from Wal-Mart that only has a single led and not a full numerical display or 5 cents for a paper clip.

Full featured scanners that have a LCD numerical display go for $175-$600 or more depending on maker (Snap-On is more), number of vehicles covered and extra features like web based scanner & software updates. Ford products prior to 95 used a Ford only OBD-I protocol that requires an adapter if you buy an ODB-II compatible scanner.

See http://www.actron.com/ or http://www.autoxray.com/default.htm (I have one of their OBD-II scanners for the wife's Isuzu - good product, good price)
 
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