Having Problems separating my 302 and C4

monk302

Founding Member

Apr 18, 2001

742

2

16

New Jersey

May 1, 2005

#1

• May 1, 2005

• #1

Hey guys,

As the post said I am having some difficulty seperating the engine and transmission. So far I have done the following.

-removed five bolts that connect the bellhousing and engine
-removed 4 nuts that connect the flexplate and torque converter
-drained the torque converter
-separated the shifter from the trans
-disconnected the neutral safety and kickdown
-removed driveshaft
-drained tranny of fluid
-removed the c-4 trans crossmember
-removed the exhaust pipes from the headers

I have put the jack underneath the transmission pan and when I start to lower it I have been pushing the trans towards the rear of the car. It seems though that the two are still connected. Is that possible with the above listed? Are they usually difficult to remove? I am only using one jack and that is to support the transmission. I am not using a trolley jack. A

Anyone have any recommendations?

Thanks,

Mike

 

golf4283

Active Member

May 30, 2003

1,253

1

39

Orland Park, Illinois

May 1, 2005

#2

• May 1, 2005

• #2

I would disconnect the starter. It probably is not the source of your problem but you don't wanna break any teeth yanking that sucker outta there. Otherwise maybe the tranny is just gunked on the back of the engine. Lots of years on the pair will probably have its toll on them getting kind of stuck together.

EDIT: definately take that starter out. it is probably what is causing the tranny to stay stuck together

 

geostang351

Member

Mar 30, 2005

946

0

17

Danb., CT

May 1, 2005

#3

• May 1, 2005

• #3

Um, you said you removed 5 blots between the engine and bellhousing. There are 6 that hold the two together.

 

M

mustangdave

My rearend needs a stud and two nuts.

Founding Member

Feb 26, 2002

2,976

1

56

North Carolina

May 1, 2005

#4

• May 1, 2005

• #4

Transmission cooling lines and hose to vaccuum modulator also need to be disconnected, (right side of tranny). Also the trans dipstick tube is bolted to the engine. Depending on year the trans kickdown cable. Isn't there six bolts in the bellhousing? Check all that and let us know,

 

Max Power

Active Member

Jul 31, 2003

1,774

1

36

St Paul

May 1, 2005

#5

• May 1, 2005

• #5

Yup, unless you have an early 289, you should have six bolts holding the engine to the tranny.

 

monk302

Founding Member

Apr 18, 2001

742

2

16

New Jersey

May 1, 2005

#6

• May 1, 2005

• #6

Six bolts huh, I guess I will have to find that last one that is hanging on there.

-Starter is out
-Vacuum lines and cooling lines are removed (will I still be using the cooling lines?)
-dipstick is out

 

M

MitchGT

Member

Apr 1, 2005

204

0

17

May 1, 2005

#7

• May 1, 2005

• #7

you won't need those cooling lines with the t-5. Since they go to the radiator, you can disconnect them there( or even get a radiator without tranny cooler). If your car isn't overheating, this probably isn't necessary, but sometimes every little bit helps.

 

65ShelbyClone

Founding Member

Sep 9, 2000

4,675

38

119

Antelope Valley, SoCal

May 2, 2005

#8

• May 2, 2005

• #8

geostang351 said:

Um, you said you removed 5 blots between the engine and bellhousing. There are 6 that hold the two together.

Click to expand...

That was the first thing that came to mind. If the trans is still stubborn with all fasteners removed, it could have a tight fit on the alignment dowels. You may have to very carefully pry between the engine and bell and work them apart. I had to do that on my 5.0 the first time it was out. The second time the engine just slid right out.

 

69Rcode_Mach1

Active Member

Apr 20, 2004

1,473

1

37

Salt Lake City, Utah

May 2, 2005

#9

• May 2, 2005

• #9

Just grab hold of the engine and wiggle it with all your might it will pop right off.