HCI swap done NEED HELP!

oosmytoo · Apr 23, 2006

Finished intstalling trickflow kit, 30lb injectors, 75mm tb, 80mm pro-m, and got it running. set the base timing at 10*. but it needs something and dont know what. i have a tweecer but no idea how to use it. just looking for some help, or maybe someone with a tweecer bin finle with my similar setup?

the car doesnt idle, and the throttle isnt responsive at all.

SWYZ721 · Apr 23, 2006

I'm sorry I can't be of help, but...

...how was the kit? What DIDN"T it include that you needed to buy?
Did they install go smoothly with the Trickflow parts or were there some discrepancies?

bimmertech · Apr 23, 2006

what is your tps voltage set at?

did you check for vacuum leaks?

prolly outta set that timing up to 15.

oosmytoo · Apr 23, 2006

bimmertech said:
what is your tps voltage set at?

did you check for vacuum leaks?

prolly outta set that timing up to 15.

alright im gonna go ahead and set the timing at 15, and how do i go about checking the tps voltage?

bimmertech · Apr 23, 2006

oosmytoo said:
alright im gonna go ahead and set the timing at 15, and how do i go about checking the tps voltage?

the search button will be kind to you---not being an ass, i just forget the color of the wires.

blksn955.o · Apr 23, 2006

You may want to put this in the tuning section...

1. What kind of maf meter do you have?

2. On the boost you will prob. need to search the tweecer forums for some help on timing and fuel to be safe, check out http://eectuning.org/forums and search the subject...it will take some time but will give you some light as to were you need to go.

3. You will need address the Maf and inj. aspect before you get something that will run even well enough to tune.

4. While tuning, the BIGGEST factor/advise I can give as a non-boost guy (I feel you should get advise/find people who have had good results with boost as its a diff. animal than n2o and n/a) is to aim for a FAT A/F and take out a good amount of timing out to start with.

vyal · Apr 23, 2006

Definatly check for vacuum leaks. That should be your first step. When i did my HCI i had a leak in the throttle body gasket underneath the throttle body. If i put my hand under the TB i could feel the air leaking out. It made the car idle like crap and have ****ty throttle response. If your using a tweecer leave your distributer timing at 10* and ajust your timing in the tweecer. The tweecer assumes that your timing is set at 10* when it shows you any ajustments that are made on your dashboard. I think the setting for changing timing is something like sparkadderglobal. Next step would be putting your MAF points into your tweecer settings.... but you need to get the car halfway decent before that.

blksn955.o · Apr 23, 2006

Global spark adder is realy not needed with the control given in the actual spark tables though...that and much more precise as to what timing will be and with boost that will be a BIG priority(sp?).

Guero · Apr 23, 2006

blksn955.o said:
You may want to put this in the tuning section...

3. You will need address the Maf and inj. aspect before you get something that will run even well enough to tune.

how do you do this?

MysticKeith50 · Apr 23, 2006

Well I did the TFS kit 2 months ago and had similar problems. Nothing a SCT chip didn't cure....but another big problem was my new throttle body and the IAC adjustment screw. You need to make sure that is open enough to ensure it is woking properly, and also check the TPS. Once you get it all squared away you will LOVE the kit.

Guero · Apr 23, 2006

MysticKeith50 said:
Well I did the TFS kit 2 months ago and had similar problems. Nothing a SCT chip didn't cure....but another big problem was my new throttle body and the IAC adjustment screw. You need to make sure that is open enough to ensure it is woking properly, and also check the TPS. Once you get it all squared away you will LOVE the kit.

ok so the chip did it for you? i know my tb is set properly since its on there now.

MysticKeith50 · Apr 23, 2006

yeah the funny part about it was i did the swap..yadda yadda yadda...wouldn't idle. I did almost all the mods in my sig at one shot on this car(about 10 hours). I got the chip...set the tps...and iac screw...perfect. But then after driving my car for like 10 minutes my car would stall at idle. Bring it back in, hook it up to the puter, my iac duty cycle was off again....i would reset the screw....to make a long story short, my iac screw on my new tb was soo loose, it was screwing itself in from vibration until it was all the was closed.....so I set it and loctited it....and no more problem.
IF THAT MADE ANY SENSE

oosmytoo · Apr 23, 2006

sorry guys should have explained myself a little better, this is my friends mustang, theres no blower on his setup. it just a 95 gt manual, stock bottom end, trick flow kit, 30lb injectors, professional products 75mm tb, PMAS 80mm MAF cal. for 30lb'ers, and a msd dizzy.

the best i could describe the way it runs, has to crank alot before it starts, also have to hold the gas pedal, once started it hesitates. and you gotta give it gas to make it stop stuttering. also smokes quite a bit.

guess i just need to slow down now, and learn some things!

so the first thing i need to check for is vacuum leaks?
then set the TPS and IAC screw?

94gts · Apr 23, 2006

oosmytoo said:
the best i could describe the way it runs, has to crank alot before it starts, also have to hold the gas pedal, once started it hesitates. and you gotta give it gas to make it stop stuttering.

mine does too....but only on hot starts. it starts fine by itslef after it has been sitting. i just wrapped up h/c/i too

Guero · Apr 23, 2006

MysticKeith50 said:
yeah the funny part about it was i did the swap..yadda yadda yadda...wouldn't idle. I did almost all the mods in my sig at one shot on this car(about 10 hours). I got the chip...set the tps...and iac screw...perfect. But then after driving my car for like 10 minutes my car would stall at idle. Bring it back in, hook it up to the puter, my iac duty cycle was off again....i would reset the screw....to make a long story short, my iac screw on my new tb was soo loose, it was screwing itself in from vibration until it was all the was closed.....so I set it and loctited it....and no more problem.
IF THAT MADE ANY SENSE

so it idled good when you set the screw? or after the chip?

blksn955.o · Apr 24, 2006

Guero said:
how do you do this?

with the tweecer you can adj. the settings.

It sounds like there is just some fine tuning needed and checking over of things in the install then from the info given. With a maf that will fool the eec, and what not it should idle. Like said above start at vac. leaks, and work with the t-body

R.J. · Apr 24, 2006

Did you set the adjustment screw or the stop screw? Try this, it worked for a friend of mine after the same mods with the same problems.

Begin with a cold vehicle. The idea here is to get the car to a firm cold idle with enough air bleed capacity left in the idle circuit for IAC adjustment.

The idle stop should be set first. Back out the idle stop screw, away from the bell crank arm, until about 1/2 turn past the point where it no longer makes contact (blade fully closed). Using a 0.010" feeler gauge, tighten until gauge just drags between screw and bell crank arm. Remove feeler gauge. Tighten screw exactly 1 1/2 turns. If the screw is very loose, put a drop of loc-tite or silicone on it, so it doesn't work out of adjustment.

Now remove the connector to the Idle Air Controller (IAC) just on the other side of the throttle body. Start the car and allow vehicle to warm for 2 minutes. Give a small "blip" to let it settle. If it is having a hard time staying running you may have to get an assistant until you can get to the front of the car. Now open or close the air bleed screw (CCW opens) next to the IAC until the car idles at 575 to 600 rpm. For guys with aftermarket cams and an EEC tuner, you might want to idle a bit more briskly, say 650 to 675.

Obviously, this rpm range is by what the car and driver wants...IE, no set idle speed, whatever works for YOU.

Turn off the car. Now count the number of turns clockwise to close on the idle air bleed screw. If it falls between 1/2 and 2, it's okay, now reverse it out the same number of turns. Log the number somewhere in case you need it for the future. Reconnect the IAC. You are done.

If the air bleed screw is above 2 turns, it's a good idea to tighten the idle stop screw another 1/2 turn, and then repeat the idle setting. If it is below 1/2 turn, then loosen the idle stop screw by 1/4 to 1/2 a turn, and repeat the idle setting. Be sure to put another drop of silicone RTV on the stop screw if it was disturbed. Reconnect the IAC. You are done.

MysticKeith50 · Apr 24, 2006

it idled good after i set the chip..but...well both i guess....lol.

oosmytoo · Apr 24, 2006

well guys, today i searched everything over, timing, re-adjusted roller rockers, and searched for vac leaks, and still no luck. Got to the point where it didnt want to fire at all. then i was stumped! I pulled a spark plug and they were black, so threw some new ones in. And fired instantly. So I gave in, and took it to my local tuner. there gonna burn me a chip. He seemed very confident that he would have it running good by tomarrow.

So anyways, thank you guys very much for all your input! Another thing i noticed is, It's amazing how much better a car sounds with some bigger heads, and better flowing intake!

GRGT1994 · Apr 25, 2006

I hope that tuner comes through for you. I was going to post up and ask whether you did new plugs, wires, dizzy cap, but in your last post, I think you said you did the plugs at least.

You should have been able to get that setup running well, even without touching the TwEECer. So I suspect there is something wrong. Most folks (me included) can get the TFS kit with similar mods to start and run well. Then the common issue becomes idle surge and die (not difficulty starting).

Keep us posted on what they find.

HCI swap done NEED HELP!

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