head bolts
- Thread starter WrongWay
- Start date
140cilx said:
Yup and 13mm 6pt for aftermarket. If your removing the head I would sudjuest replacing the head bolts as cheap insurance. Since over time they have seen a lot of use and stress, now that is just my opinion.
As for the rusted bolts I soaked my exhaust bolts in PB Blast two days before I started to un bolt it. Then I did like Ka0tyk said with the break bar and some long extentions
Stinger
Founding Member
Pro-Hawk said:
6pt aren't aftermarket, they are TTY (torque to yield) used in the newer motors. If you have 12pt then don't bother replacing them...if you do, send them to me...don't throw them away
Stinger said:6pt aren't aftermarket, they are TTY (torque to yield) used in the newer motors. If you have 12pt then don't bother replacing them...if you do, send them to me...don't throw them away
I bought a set of Fel Pro which are 6 pt head bolts for a 2.3T. As for the old 12 pts we may could do some trading
140cilx said:
Sorry I always replace head bolts, rod bolts, and main bolts. These bolts I'm trashing could have 200,000 on them for all I know and are very stressed out. Its just a cheap insurance to replace these type of bolts if you got it pulled a part anyways. Now I know that will hair lip a few people on that but o well it want be the first and it want be the last
Now I like the 12pt bolts my self but the only ones I could find in the 12pt was a set of ARP head studs, which I really don't need.
Lex
Founding Member
When I took my flange off the manifold I had to use heat to lossen the nuts. I'm not sure if you have a torch to do that. I'm lucky cause my Dad has his own mechanic shop 
. If not once you put the racket socket over the nut, give it a good bang to TRY to break up the rust alittle then try unbolting it. Also sometimes you may try tightening it a little first if it turns better that way, then unbolten it. Couple tricks that worked for me in the past.
. If not once you put the racket socket over the nut, give it a good bang to TRY to break up the rust alittle then try unbolting it. Also sometimes you may try tightening it a little first if it turns better that way, then unbolten it. Couple tricks that worked for me in the past.Lex said:When I took my flange off the manifold I had to use heat to lossen the nuts. I'm not sure if you have a torch to do that. I'm lucky cause my Dad has his own mechanic shop
Great Tricks
A cheap Coleman torch should do the trick if you need some heat and that tighting/loosing the bolts/nuts works pretty good. Now it took sometime on my before I got the rust to break loose on my mainifold but it worked.
Stinger
Founding Member
Pro-Hawk said:I bought a set of Fel Pro which are 6 pt head bolts for a 2.3T. As for the old 12 pts we may could do some trading
That's because the 12pts are no longer available...you can only get the 6pt TTY and studs now.
Stinger
Stinger said:6pt aren't aftermarket, they are TTY (torque to yield) used in the newer motors. If you have 12pt then don't bother replacing them...if you do, send them to me...don't throw them away
There is both Ford and aftermarket 2.3L(T) head bolts being made. That TTY don't mean nothing when talking OEM or aftermarket since its just the new design of the newer bolts. All the TTY means in a short term is that you have to stretch the bolts 90 degrees after torqueing them. I did this once on a 80's model 6.2L dis and its not to bad etc the last bolt by the break booster.
Whether the old way or new way of bolts is better is a whole other story but if it was me I would always replace the head bolts, rod bolts, and mains when ever I had it apart. These bolts go through a ton of stress and exspecaily on a turbo motor since it puts more heat/pressure out than a N/A 2.3L does. I say again that is just my opinion.Similar threads
