Head Gasket Trouble - Pull Engine

stang89bidges · Feb 15, 2015

I studied that clutch a little. It seems to be rated up to 350rwhp. I was worried about the cheaper cost at only $170. How many of these clutches have you used and how many miles are you getting out of them and what kind of driving/abuse are you putting them through?

Chuckman · Feb 15, 2015

I used a kc clutch on mine for over 3? maybe 4 years and probably over 20k miles, just upgraded to something more suitable for racing on sticky tires, and the kc still looks awesome, and would have probably lasted another 3 or 4 years. Theyre built to last about like an oe clutch, just more pressure and more friction.

89oem · Feb 15, 2015

RAM , love them, 2 in 220k odd miles. putting one in my coyote swap but 11",.... I use my trans and clutch for what theyre there for up and down shifting... why else own a stick.

TOOLOW91 · Feb 15, 2015

I'm a heavy down shifter as well I like to drive the out of my car lol .

Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate

stang89bidges · Feb 15, 2015

That's good to hear about the clutch use fella's.

I started digging hard into the King Cobra and it looks like it is no longer made/offered. I found on FRPP website a link to the King Cobra but it's no longer available. It gave the part numbers. I looked these up on several other sites with no luck. Looks like FRPP made 2 versions of their heavy duty clutch.

FRPP Mustang HD Kit
Part# M-7560-A302N
http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=8459

FRPP Mustang HD "King Cobra" Kit
Par# M-7560-C302N
http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=8458

The King Cobra has this as part of it's description "Same capacity as M-7563-A302N above but stronger cover and revised internal geometry reduce clutch pedal effort by 10%. Nodular iron plate."

The only clutch I found on other websites such as LateModel Resto and American Muscle was the A302N not the King Cobra. BUMMER!!!

So how about this picture, it's my bearing retainer. Since the PO installed a newer Centerforce clutch I'm assuming he also upgraded the stock bearing retainer on the tranny?? I can't tell, don't know what the original bearing retainer looked like. Need help identifying it please.

Original or Steel Bearing Retainer?

jrichker · Feb 16, 2015

A magnet applied to the place where the throwout bearing slides will tell you quicker than anything else. Steel attracts a magnet, aluminum does not.

stang89bidges · Feb 16, 2015

More questions.

1. What piston rings do I need to buy to replace the original piston rings? I'm reusing the pistons if I can.
2. Do I need to re-balance everything? Crankshaft with new bearings to flywheel, to harmonic balancer, and new clutch pressure plate?
3. Main bearings replacement. Using stock crank. Do I just simply buy the new ones, slap em on there, tighten down the main caps and call it a day or does a machine shop need to do some measuring and honing? Same thing with the camshaft, new bearings, slap it together and I'm good to go or not?

7991LXnSHO · Feb 16, 2015

What decade is it? I think they reuse pistons, and use a piece of belt for a bearing in "the grapes of wrath". Re ring kits and just grinding the valves went out with cast iron rings and flat head Fords.
I need to re read all the posts in thread, but here is a serious answer. By the time stock 5.0 rings wear out, the bore and Pistons are usually worn too. New rings and a sloppy piston is not a recepie for long life or max power.

If you want to be cheap on bearings, at least use PlastiGauge to check clearances or it could be game over right away. Yes, they should be at least polished if not cut to the next smaller size.
Cam bearings require some hassle and a tool to install right.

stang89bidges · Feb 16, 2015

Yes please read them all before you post. That felt like my father just walked into the room and judged me like I was a teenager with no sense...

7991LXnSHO · Feb 17, 2015

stang89bidges said:
Yes please read them all before you post. That felt like my father just walked into the room and judged me like I was a teenager with no sense...

Luke, I am your father.
I have been following this thread and re read it. I am seriously concerned about you having new problems that will cost more the 5th time (or so).

LRS has had some reasonably priced short blocks, especially for the quality of work that goes into them. I do not see many Exploder motors around here and think the pull out motor days are about over. Avoid Marshall rebuilds. Once, I needed a 5.0 motor fast, but their heads just knurled the old valve guides! The new motor smoked worse and used more oil than the old one ever did. (It was supposed to be a spun bearing.) My 79 would have been better off if I had carefully rebuild the old motor and put some miles on a classic while doing it.

You do not need to go with forged pistons and ARP fasteners, but please do not skimp on machine work and getting clearances right.

A5literMan · Feb 17, 2015

I'd have the crank turned and polished,new cam bearings installed,definetly plastigauge everything,new balancer,water pump,rings,proper bearings,and gaskets. I just bought a std re ring/overhaul kit with proper sized bearings for the crank when I did mine years ago. It's ran well and has high oil pressure and doesn't use a drop of oil inbetween changes. Machine shop did the cam bearings,crank work,hot tank and magnafluxed the block. I did set the bearings on the tight side of clearance. Has about 75# press on cold start and 60 when warm.

TOOLOW91 · Feb 17, 2015

I know someone personally using the LMR block no issues yet

Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate

Boosted92LX · Feb 17, 2015

It IS ok to re-ring the factory pistons and go back together with it.. BUT, there are conditions that go along with it. You have to mic the bores and make sure they are in tolerance, and not too far out of round. If you can hone any scratches out and still be in spec, rock on. It's not for everybody... but someone that can borrow the tools, learn to use them and read can pull it off..

Edit: most machine shops will do this for you, (check your bores) if you are in a bind for money and are having your block tanked and cam bearings installed.

89oem · Feb 17, 2015

King Cobra - Ram same thing different name: Ford part number: fms 10.5 clutch kit 10 spline m-7560-a302n

stang89bidges · Feb 17, 2015

89oem said:
King Cobra - Ram same thing different name: Ford part number: fms 10.5 clutch kit 10 spline m-7560-a302n

Hmm. Are we sure? I found on frpp website the true part numbers. The part number with the "A" in it was the HD basic kit, the part number with the "C" was the king cobra kit.

All I care about is having a clutch that will last a long time and can handle upgrades in the future.

I'm running 300rwhp now. 5 yr future plan 450rwhp.

Edit: Car is officially a weekend only car now. No longer a DD.

89oem · Feb 17, 2015

Its what I use.... key is a Ford or Maximum motorsport cable and a good quadrant. All 3 combined will be good enough grandma wont have trouble using the clutch Short on any of them and you get what you pay for....

stang89bidges · Feb 17, 2015

Lets not forget guys im on a small budget this time around. I will tear her apart in 4-5 years again for upgrades. I am going to re-ring my stock pistons if they check out ok. I'm going to re-hone my cylinders myself. I will check cylinder walls to make sure I'm still in factory range. Then my new rings accordingly.

I want to learn to do this myself. I'm in it for my own personal satisfaction and hobby. I do however want to do it right so I need help with this from you guys.

Chuckman · Feb 17, 2015

89oem said:
King Cobra - Ram same thing different name: Ford part number: fms 10.5 clutch kit 10 spline m-7560-a302n

Not unless valeo makes ram too.

mikestang63 · Feb 17, 2015

after reading the last few posts, here is where I throw in my obligatory......buy a jy exploder motor for $300 and be done with it post....

Too tired to go into all the reasons for the millionth time. Boosted92lx covered some of them. Good luck to you.

TOOLOW91 · Feb 17, 2015

Re ring and re bearing can get expensive too I did it on my first motor and due to poor machine work and machinist motor didn't last more then 1500 miles

Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate

Head Gasket Trouble - Pull Engine

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GTFO you fat, heavy bastard

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wanna catch the space herp

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wanna catch the space herp

At least it is lumpy...

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It's only an inch or two. What's the big deal?

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GTFO you fat, heavy bastard

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