Head porting tips?

[jastang]

I'm about to start porting (actually finish porting) my PI heads for my '97 GT. I had planned on having lots of time before the swap, but my conversion intake gaskets just started leaking.
I'd like to know the following:

-Where are the dangerous parts of the head as far as wall thickness in relation to the water jackets?

-Bigger valves? Are they worth it with a relatively mild port job?

-What kind of grinding media should I use. I know I'll be using some sandrolls, but those aren't very good for doing small areas like bowl work or in the combustion chamber.

-Should I remove or reduce the "emissions wall" or whatever that big bump is that shrouds the intake valve?

What are the toughest parts of the actual swap? Special tools? Anything else?

Thanks for your help in preparing for my swap.

 

[Dark Knight GT]

Stay away from the swirl dams, as if you port these, you'll loose power, not gain it. As for porting, no matter what part you port, try to port evenly, and don't overdue it. The key here is to improve flow, but not completely hone out the heads. Doing a basic port match by trying to make each port even would probably be best to do. The only real way to guage this accurately is with a flow bench, which you don't have.

As for valve jobs, honestly, they will probably give you as much, if not more power than the porting work will, and that is not a lie. Since you've got the heads out, might as well have a valve job done to them.

Honestly, if you've never done this before, you might want to leave this to a professional. I would say take the heads to a local machine shop, and see how much they would charge to do a basic port match for you and a valve job.