Head studs or head bolts?

68EFIvert · Nov 22, 2007

I am in the process of adding AFR heads and a supercharger to my 68. I was thinking of using my existing ARP head bolts but perhaps I should just buy new studs or bolts. I only ran my existing engine for maybe 10 minutes over the last 2 years so the bolts are in good condition. I have heard that head bolts are only good for one torque and then they should be replaced. What do you guys think? Should I reuse my bolts, buy studs or buy new bolts? Can you reuse head studs? Do head studs hold up better when you have a power adder?

Thanks for the help.
Darreld

mustangmike6996 · Nov 22, 2007

studs are always a better option if you have the chance.. they distribute the torque more evenly... if this helps.

rbohm · Nov 22, 2007

the only head bolts you replace after one use are torque to yield bolts, and you dont have those. in your application i say use the studs.

68EFIvert · Nov 22, 2007

Thanks for the help. Add studs to the Summit order for tomorrow. This is starting to get expensive.

rbohm · Nov 23, 2007

68EFIvert said:
Thanks for the help. Add studs to the Summit order for tomorrow. This is starting to get expensive.

as the saying goes, speed costs money, how many dollars do you want to go fast?

iskwezm · Nov 23, 2007

after tons of boxes of parts that i have replaced, im still learning to spend the money the first time. My "cheapness" on $80 studs might have bought a little time on a H/G repair.

68EFIvert · Nov 23, 2007

I place the order for ARP head studs, ARP header bolts and a new Exhaust gasket. I thought I could get away with reusing my exhaust gasket but thought its only $20 for the peace of mind. I originally started out wanting to add a supercharger for $2500 or so and now has turned into about $6k. This obsession has to end soon!!!

66HertzClone · Nov 25, 2007

I can't remember where, but I've read that you cannot install remove the head on the engine with the engine in the car when using studs. You will need to remove the studs before the head can be installed or removed due to the length of the studs, the head comes in contact with something that prevents its removal. Add the length of the studs to the height of the head to get an idea. Sorry I don't have more info or details, but something to consider.

68EFIvert · Nov 25, 2007

I guess I will find our if that is the case in a couple days. I will post an update when I find out. I wonder if that is just for 65-66 and not the 67-70 engine compartments? Aren't the 67-70's a little wider?

96 DOHC Cobra · Nov 25, 2007

I think that's only a concern on big blocks. Smallblocks have more room to clear the studs.

Rusty67 · Nov 25, 2007

Use the 351 studs. Tap the holes on the 302 out to the 351 stud instead of using those studs that have those insert washers. That is what I'll be doing to put the 351 heads I've got onto my 302. If I remember correctly, the AFR heads use the 351 sized bolt holes on the heads.

Um, you are puting a 302 in and not a 351 right ? I just realized you never said what size the engine is =)

68EFIvert · Nov 26, 2007

I am using a 302. AFR's website recommends APR head bolts that are for stock heads or Edelbrock heads. The specific part number they gave did not have insert washers. I got the feeling that the heads (165's) use 302 size bolts (7/16 rather than 1/2 like the 351). I should have the heads tomorrow and the studs either tomorrow or Tuesday. I should know by then. Does anyone else have 165's and if so what size bolt holes do they have?

I really don't think I will drill out the holes in the block. Good suggestion though. I am sure it would help seal the heads when they are under boost. Perhaps if the engine was out of the car and the block was not assembled.

Rusty67 · Nov 26, 2007

I didn't realize the block was still in the car. At that point I don't think it is worth the trouble unless you are going to boost the hell out of it.

brianj5600 · Nov 26, 2007

66HertzClone said:
I can't remember where, but I've read that you cannot install remove the head on the engine with the engine in the car when using studs. You will need to remove the studs before the head can be installed or removed due to the length of the studs, the head comes in contact with something that prevents its removal. Add the length of the studs to the height of the head to get an idea. Sorry I don't have more info or details, but something to consider.

I have removed mine, 351w in a 67. It was close, but worked. I think it is an internet legend, for 67+ small blocks anyway.

68EFIvert · Nov 26, 2007

I am relieved to hear that. I am now just hoping I can leave the headers in when I do the swap. I have loosened the connectors and rotated the headers to the shock towers and it gave me some space. I think it should be fine though.

68EFIvert · Nov 29, 2007

Well I finally got the head studs today and it looks like I won't have a clearance problem. Whew, I was visualizing pulling the engine out or jacking it up a little to clear. I think I can even put them on with the headers connected to the exhaust.

mikethebike · Nov 29, 2007

66HertzClone said:
I can't remember where, but I've read that you cannot install remove the head on the engine with the engine in the car when using studs. You will need to remove the studs before the head can be installed or removed due to the length of the studs, the head comes in contact with something that prevents its removal. Add the length of the studs to the height of the head to get an idea. Sorry I don't have more info or details, but something to consider.

Don't you just love spring tower suspensions?

USAF46270 · Nov 30, 2007

I was going to go with studs, but after trying I could not get my heads off without jacking
351C

brianj5600 · Nov 30, 2007

What car?

Head studs or head bolts?

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