Yes, I'm well aware the cam caps are torqued in inch-pounds. In fact, I own an inch-pound torque wrench for that very reason. Learn from experience, though. When I did the first cam swap a year ago, I did know it was inch pounts, which just happened to correspond to the very minimum setting on our foot-pound torque wrench. Snapped the head right off one of those little bolts. Thankfully I was able to get it out pretty easily, went and bought a new bolt and the inch-pound torque wrench, and all was well.
You've got me nervous about my headers being an issue. I do have the kind that the steering shaft goes through, instead of around. Can I disconnect the shaft on both ends to overcome this? I was kind of hoping that pulling the motor forward enough might give the shaft room to drop down and out of the way. I suppose if worse comes to worse, I can just take the header off inside the car, but I'm sure y'all know just how much of a bitch that is...even when the K-member is out of the car.
Updated original post above with. Still a couple questions I'd like answered. Keep the good advice coming!
I tried disconnecting the steering shaft in the car under the dash by removing the pinch bolt and pulling the motor far enough forward but the headers hit the K member. So after trying to pull the header for 4 hours I said screw it and dropped the K member. With a buddy, we dropped the K member in an hour and the motor was out shortly there after. It really mad things very easy without the K member. But it surely wouldnt hurt to try to pull the motor before removing the K member, always worth a shot!
To use those "ear" holes in back you have to pull the manifold. It will make it easier when load leveling the hoist as well because the manifold wont hit the firewall. And it scares me having that plastic manifold near the chains of the hoist with such high tension, I really dont trust the plastic manifolds much.
Ill check the size of the allen key tomorrow when I get to my dad's shop as well as look in my book for the tightening sequence. However I do know that you cant go wrong working your way from the innermost bolt to the outermost.
I pulled my motor out last weekend with the tranny attached to it looks like I'm a few steps ahead of you so if you have any more questions keep em comin!
Well, the heads and my new Snap-On 30-150 foot-pound torque wrench arrived today! This is my first Snap-On tool, and damn it's a lot nicer than the Craftsman one we used to have. I love Craftsman and all, and will continue to use them for most things, but I'm sticking with Snap-On for torque wrenches.
I did not have to disconnect the clutch cable. Then again, I was just putting in stock headers (attached them to the heads before I installed the heads).
I also did not drain the block, but just cleaned up the mess
I would say, just buy a cheap little allen wrench set with some decent sizes. It should cover you.
Snap-On tools are of nice quality. That was a good buy and will be useful to you for years to come. Just keep them calibrated if you use it a lot.
Well, the job is done, and the car is tuned and back on the road. For those interested, I gained 19 RWHP and 10 ft/lbs of torque and moved my powerband up about 300 RPM. Only change was the heads and the updated dyno tune.
I'm a bit disappointed with the numbers, but I've learned that you never seem to get as much as you're expecting.
Well, the job is done, and the car is tuned and back on the road. For those interested, I gained 19 RWHP and 10 ft/lbs of torque and moved my powerband up about 300 RPM. Only change was the heads and the updated dyno tune.
I'm a bit disappointed with the numbers, but I've learned that you never seem to get as much as you're expecting.
19rwhp isn't anything to shake a stick at with these cars. Honestly, they just aren't crazy NA beasts, you put stage 2 heads on a LS2 or LS3 and you're getting upper 30's low 40's in gains