Header Installation

69Rcode_Mach1

Active Member

Apr 20, 2004

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Salt Lake City, Utah

Jul 11, 2004

#1

• Jul 11, 2004

• #1

Hey guys my hedman elite headers longtubes will be here soon and want to know what I will need to install those on my car ahead of time so I can prepare. The headers come with gaskets and all the bolts. I also have the torque specs. Will it be hard to fit my headers in my car? Ive heard horror stories about some 67's and 68's with 351W swaps and it freaked me out(People actually had to tilt their motors). 69 engine bay is bigger so I hope it will be easier. Will I need anything else also? Thanks in advance guys.

 

Max Power

Active Member

Jul 31, 2003

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St Paul

Jul 12, 2004

#2

• Jul 12, 2004

• #2

If tilting your motor is a horror story, I am not sure you are ready for headers!!!

 

8

85GTlover

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Mar 20, 2004

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Jul 12, 2004

#3

• Jul 12, 2004

• #3

Max Power said:

If tilting your motor is a horror story, I am not sure you are ready for headers!!!

Click to expand...

You took the words out of my mouth.....I was going to suggest doing that to make it easier! I would not call that a horror story, that is easy. Good luck!

 

chepsk8

Founding Member

Jan 15, 2001

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Easton, PA

Jul 12, 2004

#4

• Jul 12, 2004

• #4

Just be glad you have a Windsor!

when I had the SCJ, I did headers twice! nothing but PURE HELLLLLLLLLLL! You've got it easy, only two bolts per port, I had to deal with a big block and Four bolts per port and NO ROOM!!! It took two days, and the pass side was the easy one! You've never seen so many different socket wrenches! (Insert Sam Kennison mad yelling here)

(I still have some scars from it on my hands)

 

69Rcode_Mach1

Active Member

Apr 20, 2004

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Salt Lake City, Utah

Jul 12, 2004

#5

• Jul 12, 2004

• #5

Explain guys Im new to the performance field. Tilting a motor sounded hard and expensive to me. Do you think I'll need to the 69 bay is bigger than most others. The hard part it seems will be slipping the torque wrench in there.

 

rfedd

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Aug 21, 1999

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Vancouver, WA

Jul 12, 2004

#6

• Jul 12, 2004

• #6

All you need to do to "tilt" the motor a bit and get the headers in is get the car up on jackstands, then loosen the two bolts that hold the engine mounts. Get a short lenght of 2 x 6 and find a suitable location to raise a engine a bit. Do one side and then the other. I would also suggest getting a set of ARP header bolts with a 5/16th head. You will find clearance real tight, and it is a lot easier to get the smaller header bolt in. You will also need to retighten those babies after a couple of heat cycles. They always come loose.

Ron

 

Max Power

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Jul 31, 2003

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St Paul

Jul 12, 2004

#7

• Jul 12, 2004

• #7

Your not gonna get a torque wrench in there, so don't worry about it. Follow above instructions for jacking the motor up. It really is no big deal.

 

69Rcode_Mach1

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Apr 20, 2004

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Jul 12, 2004

#8

• Jul 12, 2004

• #8

K cool guys thanks youve all been a big help. Hope full those dang things will get here soon so I can post vids and pics on my other thread like I promised.

 

pabear89

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Apr 15, 2003

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High in the Hills of So Ca with the Voices in My H

Jul 13, 2004

#9

• Jul 13, 2004

• #9

A few tips, Start ALL the bolts before you begin to tighten them.
Always start in the center and work out to the ends when torking them down,
This will help sealing them and keep the flange warp to a min.

And a box of bandaids,

PB

 

rfedd

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Aug 21, 1999

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Vancouver, WA

Jul 13, 2004

#10

• Jul 13, 2004

• #10

I like to start with the 2 end bolts since they are also the gasket locators. Insert the end bolts (loosely), then drop the notched gasket in place.

ron

 

69Rcode_Mach1

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Apr 20, 2004

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Jul 13, 2004

#11

• Jul 13, 2004

• #11

What do you mean the notched gasket??

 

Max Power

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Jul 31, 2003

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St Paul

Jul 13, 2004

#12

• Jul 13, 2004

• #12

You will see when you get the gasket. The two end bolts are intalled loosely, then the gasket drops into place, using the two end bolts as dowel pins to keep the gasket located properly.

 

allcarfan

The Answer Man

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Apr 8, 2001

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North Atlanta

Jul 13, 2004

#13

• Jul 13, 2004

• #13

Consider some ARP header studs....it MIGHT make this task a little simpler

 

rfedd

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Jul 13, 2004

#14

• Jul 13, 2004

• #14

I think that idea was suggested about 4 posts back.

Ron

 

Mach-One-Man

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Dec 12, 2002

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The Keystone State

Jul 13, 2004

#15

• Jul 13, 2004

• #15

You really shouldn't have to lift/tilt the engine with a 351W. Either opt up for metal gaskets of soak yours in water first (better seal). If you have power steering, DO NOT forget the P/S slave cylinder DROP BRACKET! SHould be able to install in less than 1/2 hour.

 

69Rcode_Mach1

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Apr 20, 2004

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Salt Lake City, Utah

Jul 14, 2004

#16

• Jul 14, 2004

• #16

I got the bracket but it doesn't look like id need it. Why lower it anyways(could it be too hot by headers)?? Is it hard?

 

allcarfan

The Answer Man

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Apr 8, 2001

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North Atlanta

Jul 14, 2004

#17

• Jul 14, 2004

• #17

rfedd said:

I think that idea was suggested about 4 posts back.

Ron

Click to expand...

Where?

Bolts and Studs are two different things. Did I miss it?

 

rfedd

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Aug 21, 1999

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Vancouver, WA

Jul 14, 2004

#18

• Jul 14, 2004

• #18

They are bolts. Not studs. And get the 5/16 inch design. Because the tubes are so close to the holes, you will save yourself a lot of knucle busting, by using the smaller head.

Ron

 

69Rcode_Mach1

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Apr 20, 2004

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Salt Lake City, Utah

Aug 13, 2004

#19

• Aug 13, 2004

• #19

K guys headers are here today. I was thinking of doing it today. I have to drive 30 miles to my friends house so we can use his tools and weld up the rest of the exhaust. Problem is i have work tomorrow and i don't know if we will finish it today. From the sound of it it will take 2 days. Also so i don't torque the bolts?? Do i just use a socket and try to tighten them as much as i can??

 

69Rcode_Mach1

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Apr 20, 2004

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Salt Lake City, Utah

Aug 13, 2004

#20

• Aug 13, 2004

• #20

BTW i cancelled the hedman elites and got myself some hooker comps.