I recently had my Hooker Comp Headers ceramic coated at nitro plate.
nitroplate.com
They were recommended on a drag race forum. They look beautiful! The underhood temps are dramatically reduced. I took the car for a drive last night for about 25 miles. When I got back, I checked under the car for leaks and my oil pan was hotter than the headers.
My headers were only $110 on ebay and the coating was $225 and around $25 shipping. I debated spending that much for the coating because I am cheap but it is well worth it.
No more ugly rusty headers in my engine compartment.
In my experience, header paint does not work. Header wrap does keep the heat down but it will ruin your headers. Wrap is definitely not for a street car.
Good ceramic coating is the way to go.
nitroplate.com
They were recommended on a drag race forum. They look beautiful! The underhood temps are dramatically reduced. I took the car for a drive last night for about 25 miles. When I got back, I checked under the car for leaks and my oil pan was hotter than the headers.
My headers were only $110 on ebay and the coating was $225 and around $25 shipping. I debated spending that much for the coating because I am cheap but it is well worth it.
No more ugly rusty headers in my engine compartment.
In my experience, header paint does not work. Header wrap does keep the heat down but it will ruin your headers. Wrap is definitely not for a street car.
Good ceramic coating is the way to go.
The paint that comes on headers is just for 'shelf life'.
It is a pain to do it correctly, but when done right, header paint can last for many years.
Painted headers get a bad wrap because folks just leave the factory paint on and it falls to crap in days.
Kinda like Holley carbs get a bad wrap because folks don't take the time to tune them correctly and blame it on the carb, when it is in fact their own ignorance.
I'd sure like to know what your method is for painting headers that makes you defend header paint like you're the only one in on some secret. My method used to be to sandblast the rust and last paint attempt off the headers, then heat them, then paint them with the latest "this paint will last forever" header paint. THE ONLY paint I've ever found to last on exhaust was Eastwoods' paint intended to make cast iron exhaust manifolds look like new cast iron. But even it was prone to oil stains and would rust under the paint over the winter. I certainly would not paint my headers with it. So let's hear the official ratio411 method so I'm not ignorant any longer.
I know the underhood temps go down. My fuel injection setup has an intake air temp sensor that I can watch in my car. The temps at idle are about 30 degrees cooler than before, and it also helps from cooking the starter. I would recommend buying the headers uncoated , modifying them as necessary, then getting them coated (at least if your car is modified at all, which most of ours are).
I changed my spark plugs within a few minutes of shutting off the negine, and of course ended up touching the headers a few times. With the ceramic coating they were hot, but I didn't get burned. I have the Jet Hot hi temp "chrome" look coating. They look awesome and make it safer to work on.
I wasn't trying to offend.
Sometimes it comes easily for me
The way I learned to do it is a pain, but works.
You have to clean the headers however easily or drastically is required to get them to pure, bare, clean metal.
Then you have to clean them thoroughly with a solvent, like acetone.
Have to wear clean gloves, and from this point on you MUST not touch the headers with bare hands or any lint type cloth. You must also make sure not to expose the tubes to any oils or silicones of any source.
Your neighbor can spray WD 40, for example, and the stuff will float forever.
Any of that, and it's ruined.
Hang the headers and paint them in several light coats of BBQ or header paint.
Light coats, plenty of dry time, more light coats. Until you feel warm and fuzzy...
YOU STILL CANNOT TOUCH THE HEADERS.
The oil in your skin will soak into the paint and incinerate it.
Install the headers however you can to keep them perfectly clean.
Start the car, warm to operating temp.
Allow the car to cool to ambient temp.
Now you can touch them all you want.
It's done.
Some folks I have ran across said they did all this, however instead of installing the headers, they heat cycled them in an oven.
I have always done it on the engine.
Never had access to an oven I could put car parts into without someone freaking out, much less an oven big enough for headers.
This is how I have done it with success.
Any time I have been careless, it shows.
Sooner or later they will burn if you are careless.
Thta's pretty much how I did it years ago, but always without long-term success. The best paint I ever used was Martin-Senor (sp?) header paint, but even it only lasted a few weeks at best before becoming stained, then flaking, then rust. Since I've always prided myself on spotless, detailed engines, I was happy when the coated headers came out. Until then I had a ritual of r&r-ing the headers for paint a few times a year. The bad part was they were long tube headers in a '65 fastback, and to get them out, I had to unbolt the engine from the mounts and jack it up a bit to get them out without scarring the engine bay and headers.
I'm going to buy a set of headers soon. I like the idea of buying uncoated headers and having them coated after fitting them. Where can I send them to be coated? Are there places that put ceramic coatings on other things that I might be able to find local or does it have to be a header specific coating?
Thanks for the reply. I just noticed ads by Google on the top of the page that had
5 companies that do coatings. I've got to start checking things out better.
In all fairness Zoo, I try to keep a decent engine bay, but have never had sucess with keeping one spotless. Therefore, assuming someone with higher standards, the coated headers would surely be the way to go!
I am just easier to please. If they don't rust quickly, or completely, I am fine.
Nothing wrong either way, just our different expectations.
I just try to point out that headers won't rust full of holes if they are prepped.
By all means, if you like your engine clean enough to eat off of, and some folks do, then coated is the way to go.
They even coat them in various colors if you like.
That said, I second the thing about buying uncoated then sending to Jet-Hot.
They coat the entire header, unlike the header makers, and they do it after you have test fit them or done any needed mods.
My .02
Dave