Heads are on, question about timing and cam shaft

97GTSTANG

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May 25, 2000
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Virginia
The heads are on, the mechanic has installed the comp cams 262 he said they are at 109 according to the cam specs. he said he has turned it over by hand several times and its moving very smoothly and no binding or noise.

Does that mean when its started the valves wont hit the pistons?
 
The heads are on, the mechanic has installed the comp cams 262 he said they are at 109 according to the cam specs. he said he has turned it over by hand several times and its moving very smoothly and no binding or noise.

Does that mean when its started the valves wont hit the pistons?

No. He can't turn the motor at 5800 rpm. You will not be able to feel minor contact by hand.
 
He didnt use a degree wheel, he said he followed the directions on the cam specs and timed according to the directions. he said he doesnt have a degree wheel. He said he turned it by hand and it moved very smooth without any interuptions. So that doesnt mean anything?
 
If you do not have clearanced intake valves or piston notches, those cams are going to be very close to hitting and will more than likely kiss the piston.

An intake duration of 225 and a intake centerline of 110 on a cam gives you .035" of clearance. That is about the most that most people will recommend. The cam you are using is a 226 intake duration with a 109 intake centerline, which is going to make it even tighter.

Also, if your mechanic is not using a degree wheel to put your cams in, then you need to tell him to stop. You can take 10 of the same camshafts, and all 10 are going to be different. One will have a 108 centerline instead of a 109 and so on.

A friend of mine just put these exact cams in his car. He just bolted them up to the cam gear, and installed them just as he was supposed to. He turned it over by hand and nothing hit. Started it up, and it sounded like it was going to explode. I would highly recommend having your mechanic degree those cams 2 degree's retarded. That would put them at a 111 centerline, which will put you in the safe zone.
 
I did get the stainless steel (thinner intake valves) so will that help even if the cams are off by 1 or 2 degrees? He did line them up at 109. Should i tell him to change it to 110 or 111? He doesnt have a degree wheel. If he lines them up at 109 does he need a degree wheel to change it to 110 or 111?
 
If he actually timed them and verified that they are in fact installed at a 109* intake centerline, you'll be fine.

N8, he was saying something about the keyhole being at 109* or did i miss understand? He mentioned something about the pulley being on to set the timing. Or do i not konw what i am talking about. lol
 
I did get the stainless steel (thinner intake valves) so will that help even if the cams are off by 1 or 2 degrees? He did line them up at 109. Should i tell him to change it to 110 or 111? He doesnt have a degree wheel. If he lines them up at 109 does he need a degree wheel to change it to 110 or 111?

If you have the thinner intake valves, then you can install them at a 109 centerline and you will be fine.

Just as Rick just said, if he does not have a degree wheel, how does he know they are at 109? I am going to guess that he is assuming that they are at 109right now, because the cam card says they are cut at 109 and he bolted them up to the cam sprocket and lined up the dots. Tell him to buy a degree wheel, and degree them. If he doesnt want to do it, then pull your cams out of the car, and send your cams and cam gears to Nick at Modular Head Shop. He can degree them for $150. Then all you have to do is line up the dots.
 
How does he know they are at 109 if he doesnt have a degree wheel?


+1

I would bet a $2 bill that they are not both at 109.

If you read the cam card it says to degree them to 109 and the specs are given with a 109 ICL but it doesn't say anywhere what that 109 tolerance is (and NEVER will as its all over the place)
 
+1

I would bet a $2 bill that they are not both at 109.

If you read the cam card it says to degree them to 109 and the specs are given with a 109 ICL but it doesn't say anywhere what that 109 tolerance is (and NEVER will as its all over the place)

This man speaks the truth. OP, spend some time reading through some of the FAQ's on Nick's website (Modular Headshop). I learned a ton of information based on his articles.

Thanks for providing all of that info Nick :nice:
 
Where are you at in VA? Who is doing the install ?

I am in Fairfax VA. He is a regular shop mechanic, not specialized in mustang. He has always worked on my car. He said him and another mechanic checked the timing and adjustements and they were all at 109. I am not sure how he did it but i dont think he has a degree wheel. He is putting the valve covers on tomorrow and installing the upper intake and finishing up tomorrow evening. He said he is 100% certain it is at 109 and that he has turned it over by hand over 3 times and its very very smooth. I am not sure that means anything.

I have read all the articles that Nick has, and it is very good information. I have even emailed them to the mechanic. Is there anyone in the area with a degree wheel so we can go there tomorrow morning to degree them before he puts the valve covers on lol.