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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

Heads/Cam Install help...

  • Thread starter Thread starter 11sec5ohh
  • Start date Start date Feb 16, 2008
1

11sec5ohh

New Member
Jan 7, 2004
14
0
1
Washington D.C.
Feb 16, 2008
#1
  • Feb 16, 2008
  • #1
Here is what I have:

Stock block with 89k.
Everything is apart and I am ready to put back together, here are the parts I have:

AFR Aluminum heads
FMS 1.6 RRs
FMS B-303 Cam
FMS pushrods and lifters
FMS dual-roller timing chain
FMS 30lb injectors
GT-40 Aluminum intake

Not a novice, just looking or some refresher points....

With the engine at TDC should the new cam slip right in with the lifters and pushrods removed?
I should be able to drop the new lifters/pushrods in and bolt the new timing chain on with no problem as long as I keep the engine at TDC correct?
Aluminum heads torqued how much different than stock?
Adjusting the rockers( heads are complete minus the FMS rockers), any help there?

Everything else I will install new, Ex: distributor, water-pump, gaskets, etc....
 

mustangfan1990

New Member
Jul 17, 2005
505
1
0
Lenoir, North Carolina
Feb 16, 2008
#2
  • Feb 16, 2008
  • #2
I would go bigger than a B cam depending on what you are wanting the car for ( nitrous, NA ect) but I have a set of AFR 185cc heads and I am thinking you torque them the same, I cant really remember it has been a while since I installed them. I do remember though to make sure to use the molly lube so you get even torque across all bolts. AFR will be able to tell you the torque specs. The cam should go right in no matter where the engine is timing wise so long as the lifters are out. Line the notch on the cam gear with the gear on the crank shaft. When you do this the motor needs to be at TDC. With the rocker arms what I do is tighten them all down finger tight and turn the motor over to get the lifters primed. And then you take each rocker starting with the intake starts to open adjust the exhaust valve by turning the push rod while tightening the rocker stud until the pushrod barely spins and then tighten it 1/4-1/2 turn more and lock it down and the same goes for when the exhaust opens hope I helped ya
 

5spd GT

"the 5.0 owns all"
Founding Member
Aug 7, 2002
9,516
6
99
Arkansas
Feb 16, 2008
#3
  • Feb 16, 2008
  • #3
Try checking out the H/C/I help link in my signature. It goes through the process.

Good Luck
 

jtfairlane

New Member
Mar 5, 2006
468
3
0
Feb 17, 2008
#4
  • Feb 17, 2008
  • #4
mustangfan1990 said:
With the rocker arms what I do is tighten them all down finger tight and turn the motor over to get the lifters primed. And then you take each rocker starting with the intake starts to open adjust the exhaust valve by turning the push rod while tightening the rocker stud until the pushrod barely spins and then tighten it 1/4-1/2 turn more and lock it down and the same goes for when the exhaust opens hope I helped ya
Click to expand...

Not quite right.

Assuming he's using adjustable stud mount rocker arms, and not pedestal mount rocker arms, which he wasn't explicit about...

It is true that you adjust the intake valve for any given cylinder once the exhaust valve starts to open, but it is NOT true that you do the same for the exhaust valve. For the exhaust valve, the intake valve needs to reach full lift, and begin it's way back down to the seated position before you adjust the exhaust valve.

To sum up:

Watching the exhaust valve, as it begins to open, you can adjust the intake valve.

Watching the intake valve, after it has reached full lift and is on its way back down (the lifter will start going back down into its bore), than you can adjust the exhaust valve.
 

mustangfan1990

New Member
Jul 17, 2005
505
1
0
Lenoir, North Carolina
Feb 17, 2008
#5
  • Feb 17, 2008
  • #5
jtfairlane said:
Not quite right.

Assuming he's using adjustable stud mount rocker arms, and not pedestal mount rocker arms, which he wasn't explicit about...

It is true that you adjust the intake valve for any given cylinder once the exhaust valve starts to open, but it is NOT true that you do the same for the exhaust valve. For the exhaust valve, the intake valve needs to reach full lift, and begin it's way back down to the seated position before you adjust the exhaust valve.

To sum up:

Watching the exhaust valve, as it begins to open, you can adjust the intake valve.

Watching the intake valve, after it has reached full lift and is on its way back down (the lifter will start going back down into its bore), than you can adjust the exhaust valve.
Click to expand...


sorry its been a while since i adjusted mine I knew I was close
 
1

11sec5ohh

New Member
Jan 7, 2004
14
0
1
Washington D.C.
Feb 18, 2008
#6
  • Feb 18, 2008
  • #6
Thanks for the tips, starter her up this morning and everything seems to be fine so far...not ticks, leaks, or strange noises......yet anyway. I am sure I will take the car out for a drive this weekend to see how it runs and holds up. Thanks again!
 

Maryland Stang

Active Member
Aug 21, 2002
1,656
30
39
Greenville, NC
Feb 18, 2008
#7
  • Feb 18, 2008
  • #7
I fail to understand why everybody makes this rocker arm adjustment out to be such a big deal. Just make sure the lifter is on the base circle before you adjust the RA. The base circle is consistant all of the way around the cam until you reach the ramp.
 

5spd GT

"the 5.0 owns all"
Founding Member
Aug 7, 2002
9,516
6
99
Arkansas
Feb 18, 2008
#8
  • Feb 18, 2008
  • #8
When you have not done it before, or if you have not seen a camshaft, it is hard to imagine. I was in the same shoes when I was 17 and did not know a lick

Now it is easier than a piece of cake...
 
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