i am planning on buying a hellion twin turbo setup for my 01 gt. i am also planning on getting a lethal performance return style fuel system, forged rods pistons and crank from eaglerod.com, a mcloud twin disc clutch, t56 spec tranny. oh i am looking for about 800 hp. does anyone have any ideas on what else i will need and how i might be able to save a little money seeing how this project will take over a year to accumulate parts and save money for. how do you feel about hellion turbo kits?
hellion twin turbo advice?
- Thread starter gmeach
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800hp and cheap never come together. The hellion turbo kits are well known for their quality, you are fine there. This is how I would do it if I were you:1st: buy the turbo kit and install it.
2nd: have fun with the turbo kit, up the boost and enjoy (a couple people on here are driving mid 400rwhp turbo stangs with stock internals)
3rd: Most people are happy with ~400rwhp... it makes for a quick car... if you are happy here than you have saved tons of money because you just had to buy the turbo kit. You can add other stuff like the transmission components if you want later on.
4th: If mid 400's is still not good enough for you (800 is really ridiculous...) than you already have a good start and should start looking at the t56, fuel system upgrades, forged internals, etc.
Maxpowers
Member
There's no way to have this done cheap unless you can find a wrecked one with tons of parts.
Don't forget your suspension components and tires. Even 400 HP would be a joke on stock parts.
Don't forget your suspension components and tires. Even 400 HP would be a joke on stock parts.
JymboSlice
Member
- Dec 9, 2008
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here's all of the money you need to save up, and im rounding so bare with me:
Hellion twin turbo setup: ~$7300
lethal performance return-style fuel system: ~$1500 (i have this kit
)rotating assembly WITH ARP hardware/gaskets etc: ~$3000
mcleod twin disk clutch, cheap as bawls for a clutch: ~$1000
T56 tranny capable of supporting 800hp, you'll need the 6 speed kit so: ~$4500
you're also forgetting, suspension capable of handling 800 hp, MAF sensor, fuel injectors, tune, chassis stiffening, a built rear axle, and wheels/tires to somewhat handle 800 hp. So thats another ~$5000 or $6000.
You can add all of that chit up and realize cars are money pits, especially GT's. i made the mistake of getting a GT when i was in high school and now im stuck with it (wouldnt get anything for it if i sold it). you'll be happy with 400 rwhp from just a supercharger or even a hellion single turbo kit. trust me.
Oh, and youll need to factor in the labor costs too.
haha i am known for going to the extreme i just want something that will blow the brakes off absolutley anything. but i suppose maybe i should think about toning it down a little bit. im willing to spend the money but but i was just wondering if it could be done qnd save some money at the same time. what suspension ugrades do you have? how reliable is your hellion setup and what did you change your compression ratio to?
great info thank you.
great info thank you.
JymboSlice
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- Dec 9, 2008
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i dont have a hellion kit.. i have a paxton novi 2000. I built my block for a centrifugal supercharger so i'm at 9.5 to 1 compression ratio. Turbo's and roots/twin screw style blowers generally are around 8.9 to 1 compression ratio. I have a k-member with A-arms and coil overs on the front with upper/lower control arms in the back. I plan on getting the maximum motorsports torque arm and panhard bar in the future.
You can have 800 rwhp and it can be done, but it's honestly going to be a money pit and you will not, no matter what, hook on the street. Plus you won't be too happy driving the car with 800 hp on the street. You'll never use all of that power. 600hp is plenty for a street car and that will get you well into the 10's with a good driver and the proper suspension components.
You're also going to need an intake, cylinder heads, and a set of cams to get the full potential out of your turbo kit if you decide to get one.
You can have 800 rwhp and it can be done, but it's honestly going to be a money pit and you will not, no matter what, hook on the street. Plus you won't be too happy driving the car with 800 hp on the street. You'll never use all of that power. 600hp is plenty for a street car and that will get you well into the 10's with a good driver and the proper suspension components.
You're also going to need an intake, cylinder heads, and a set of cams to get the full potential out of your turbo kit if you decide to get one.
slayerripkdc
15 Year Member
I have to ask. Have you ever had a 400 Horse car before? If the answer is no. You will most likely kill your self with 800. 400-450 is more than enough for the average gear head.
Stumbaugh
Member
Here is my advice to you.
Find you a cobra crank, some H beam rods, and get you some 9:7 diamond piston's. 9:7 is the perfect compression for what you are wanting. Once you have the parts, Call up John at Modular Performance. He was on the design team for ford when the modular was being designed. Have him assemble your short block. He is by far the best modular engine builder. As for heads and cams, Call up Nick at Modular Head Shop and get a set of his stage 2 heads and stage 2.5 turbo cams. Whatever turbo kit you decide to go with, get a forward facing kit. They spool a lot faster and make more power on less boost. Also, a 70-76mm is all you will need. As for a fuel system, go with what you picked out. For a clutch and transmission, I would call up Promotion. IMO, they have the best transmission's for the $, and their clutches are the best in the industy IMO.
At 20psi, that combo above made 672rwhp and 720rwtq with a snow 675 meth injection through a 5 speed WITH THE STOCK PLASTIC INTAKE ON PUMP GAS. With a nicer turbo such as a bullseye S374, and an edelbrock intake, you will make over 700rwhp easily. Probably closer to the 750rwhp range. Once he swapped over to an auto, the car ran 10.14 at 139mph at full weigh (3600lbs).
It's a simply, tried and proven combo.
If you dont belive me, or have doubts in my info, feel free to read about it:
Dyno results today... - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
Also, This is my last bit of advice. I saw where you were asking about saving some money on some stuff. There is nothing wrong with that, but dont sacrafice quality for money savings. Also, here is a little saying to remember when building a car, it's honestly true about 100% of the time:
If it's Fast and Cheap, it isnt reliable
If it's Cheap and Reliable, it isnt fast
If it Fast and reliable, it isnt cheap
Not trying to scare you away. I honestly hope you follow through with it. Good luck on the car and keep up updated.
Find you a cobra crank, some H beam rods, and get you some 9:7 diamond piston's. 9:7 is the perfect compression for what you are wanting. Once you have the parts, Call up John at Modular Performance. He was on the design team for ford when the modular was being designed. Have him assemble your short block. He is by far the best modular engine builder. As for heads and cams, Call up Nick at Modular Head Shop and get a set of his stage 2 heads and stage 2.5 turbo cams. Whatever turbo kit you decide to go with, get a forward facing kit. They spool a lot faster and make more power on less boost. Also, a 70-76mm is all you will need. As for a fuel system, go with what you picked out. For a clutch and transmission, I would call up Promotion. IMO, they have the best transmission's for the $, and their clutches are the best in the industy IMO.
At 20psi, that combo above made 672rwhp and 720rwtq with a snow 675 meth injection through a 5 speed WITH THE STOCK PLASTIC INTAKE ON PUMP GAS. With a nicer turbo such as a bullseye S374, and an edelbrock intake, you will make over 700rwhp easily. Probably closer to the 750rwhp range. Once he swapped over to an auto, the car ran 10.14 at 139mph at full weigh (3600lbs).
It's a simply, tried and proven combo.
If you dont belive me, or have doubts in my info, feel free to read about it:
Dyno results today... - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
Also, This is my last bit of advice. I saw where you were asking about saving some money on some stuff. There is nothing wrong with that, but dont sacrafice quality for money savings. Also, here is a little saying to remember when building a car, it's honestly true about 100% of the time:
If it's Fast and Cheap, it isnt reliable
If it's Cheap and Reliable, it isnt fast
If it Fast and reliable, it isnt cheap
Not trying to scare you away. I honestly hope you follow through with it. Good luck on the car and keep up updated.
Stumbaugh
Member
This is the best advice to people. I have been guilty of it to. I was driving 250rwhp cars and watning to build 1200+rwhp cars. You have to be realistic with your goals. The first time you ride in a 400 or 500+ rwhp car, you will guess that it is making WAY more power than that. Then once the owner tells you what power it makes, it will give you a reality check.
Honestly this is probably my best advise I can give you. Trade up to a cobra. If you want a twin turbo car, and are on a budget, buy a built cobra. They are always for sale. By the time your gt is built to handle that type of power, the trade would have been a lot cheaper. I bought mine already built pretty much the way I wanted it for the same price as a stocker. It came with $15k+ in receipts on mods. Low miles and I'm completely satisfied. I'm putting down close to 600rwhp and it's a very drivable car. Trade up and make life easy on yourself and have fun with it.
Stumbaugh
Member
no this is my first build but i figure this is the only chance in this liife ill ever have to build something sick so i figure might as well go big!
Stumbaugh
Member
Keep the boost low until you get used to it. The owner of the car that made the numbers I listed above, said he could be on the interstate at 90mph and roll into the throttle and it would blow the tires off. So you gotta be careful.
I kind of find this thread borderline "never going to happen".
What issues caused you to just join stangnet and
?
Best of luck on your build. The above posters have pretty much nailed it. Put a blower or turbo on your car, learn to drive it, and have fun. Since you have never had a fast car, look at about 15-20k in parts and labor on your car to reach your goals since you won't be doing the work. Depending on where you live, 800hp is entry level in fast street cars and will get walked easily by the heavy hitters. Always know, somebody bigger and badder is out there, so never have the mindset that my car is the chit or unbeatable. That is never the case.
Stumbaugh
Member
This is very true. Down at Texas 2k11, if you had anything around 700-800rwhp, you were "decently" fast in the slow group of cars.
The fast cars were the 1500rwhp lambo's giving turbo'd hayabusa's the hit + 2 or 3 cars and running around them like they are sitting still.
Stumbaugh
Member
I don't know those guys and have no idea what you are talking about.
I'm sure you dont
. lolIt's great to have pride in a build. This guy seems to be on a budget though. Easiest and cheapest route to that kind of hp is to buy one close to that already. When buying, a modded car is usually about the same price as a stocker. I bought one already modded and still have put over $4k in it in the course of a year. And I'm not done yet. I had to wrench for a living for 14 years and personally I hate having to work on cars. Only reasons that I recommended buying built.
Stumbaugh
Member
I was pretty much leaving my house as I was typing that, so I just made it short. I appologize if I came off rude. After I read it back a minute ago, I kinda sound like I am being a douche.
What I meant was:
Me personally, I have some pictures of the day that I bought my car. It was bone stock except for a mac prochamber, flowmasters, and a BBK cold air. Now that I look at it and see how far I have came with it, it gives me a lot of pride to know that I have made that car what it is. I am by no means done with it, not even close. It will give me a lot more pride when it's "done" (which they never are), for some real mustang guru's to come up and ask me what kind of power it makes and what kind of times it ran in the 1/4 and say "Well, it made 600rwhp and 700rwtq (my goals) and ran 9.xx in the 1/4 mile" and then them look over and see that's it's a 2v GT rather than a 4v Cobra. I like being the underdog.
Now that my rambling is done on that part, I 100% understand what you mean. If you are on a budget and dont want/have time to mess with it, your best bet is to buy something already built. You just have to be careful and make sure you are not buying somebody elses problem
BTW, do you have any pics of your car that you bought? Would be interested in hearing some details about it.
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