HELP A NOOB OUT!!!real quick!!

sade04

Member

Sep 13, 2004

97

0

6

Lansdale, PA

Jan 17, 2007

#1

• Jan 17, 2007

• #1

ok im about to change my steering rack and already im having problems!!

1. Where in the world is the pinch bolt. I can see it in the haynes manual but i cant find it on my car???

2. How do i disconnect the fluid feed and return lines??? I dont think i cant fit a wrench in there...almost no space. Or should I disconnect the tie rod from the knuckle first and push the tie rod down and out of the way?

I NEED HELP FAST!!! THANKS GUYS!!!




...id have a shop do it for me but im trying to learn and i didnt wanna pay the $400 or whatever they were asking me.

 

droptopford 5 0

Member

Mar 31, 2005

427

0

17

Jan 17, 2007

#2

• Jan 17, 2007

• #2

im just subscribing since this is my next projext when it warms up a bit outside... sorry i cant help you out yet... i havnt done it nor can i look at my car since its wrapped up for winter. good luck

 

1TallMF

New Member

Apr 17, 2006

955

1

0

Montreal

Jan 17, 2007

#3

• Jan 17, 2007

• #3

Your questions sparked my curiosity, so I just went to the garage and had another inspection under the car. There seems to be alot of slack on the two lines going to the rack, so when I do mine I'll probably leave them connected until the rack is unbolted and its easier to get to the lines. As for the pinch bolt, that I can't answer yet since I haven't been under there in a while. I don't know how they got that picture in the Haynes manual, I knew it looked too easy. If you crawl back far enough, can't you get it from in between the k-member and the oil pan? Thats the only way I can think that it would be accessible, but I won't know until I do it. Damn weather is not cooperating right now.

 

sade04

Member

Sep 13, 2004

97

0

6

Lansdale, PA

Jan 17, 2007

#4

• Jan 17, 2007

• #4

1TallMF said:

Your questions sparked my curiosity, so I just went to the garage and had another inspection under the car. There seems to be alot of slack on the two lines going to the rack, so when I do mine I'll probably leave them connected until the rack is unbolted and its easier to get to the lines. As for the pinch bolt, that I can't answer yet since I haven't been under there in a while. I don't know how they got that picture in the Haynes manual, I knew it looked too easy. If you crawl back far enough, can't you get it from in between the k-member and the oil pan? Thats the only way I can think that it would be accessible, but I won't know until I do it. Damn weather is not cooperating right now.

Click to expand...

yup just like you said man...just scoot further down and the pinch bolt is easily visible inbetween the k-member and the oil pan. yeah and i think ill just wait till everythings unbolted and then try to undo the lines....wish me luck:SNSign:

 

1TallMF

New Member

Apr 17, 2006

955

1

0

Montreal

Jan 17, 2007

#5

• Jan 17, 2007

• #5

Cool man, let me know of any other problems you run into, then at least I'll know what to expect. Good luck

 

sade04

Member

Sep 13, 2004

97

0

6

Lansdale, PA

Jan 17, 2007

#6

• Jan 17, 2007

• #6

Update...

Stephane is right, taking the rack out completely and then removing the lines is the best way to go.

Good news is that ive got the rack out....i just cant undo the lines!! Its like theyre permanently stuck there!

I sprayed it with pb blaster and used a 6in crescent and nothing. I didnt have an open end wrench big enough. But i just sprayed it down with more pb blaster and called it a night. Illl try again tomorrow morning.

 

bill302

Active Member

Nov 2, 2005

2,131

1

46

alabama,gadsden

Jan 17, 2007

#7

• Jan 17, 2007

• #7

you need a little muscle and a cheater bar and i would use a line wrench if you use a cresent or monkey wrench you may strip it and have a big problem....if you don't have one go buy one seriously it will work better than the pb blaster with a cheater bar.....

View attachment 409953

 

1TallMF

New Member

Apr 17, 2006

955

1

0

Montreal

Jan 18, 2007

#8

• Jan 18, 2007

• #8

When I did the rack on my old Dodge I used a crowsfoot with a 24" long breaker bar on it. Now I can see it being a bit difficult with the rack unbolted, unless you can jam it so it doesn't move. When all else fails, use the trusty BFH

 

pwcracer

Founding Member

Jun 13, 2000

347

0

16

Hastings, MN, USA

Jan 18, 2007

#9

• Jan 18, 2007

• #9

I agree with bill on using the line wrench, as i have stripped out the nut before (that doesn't sound good lol)

 

sade04

Member

Sep 13, 2004

97

0

6

Lansdale, PA

Jan 18, 2007

#10

• Jan 18, 2007

• #10

ok, got it done.

all i need now is an alignment. I dont think it matters how careful you are with the tierods...youll still need an alignment.

I tired using the line wrench method but I still couldnt force it loose. But it did loosen EASILY with a crows foot and breaker bar. (ONE of those little line wrenches cost $22!)

Thanks stephane and everyone else who helped