Help! Antifreeze smell!

4.6vertGT · Nov 19, 2009

Hey all-

Thanks in advance for the help, but I have a 1996 gt and lately, i have noticed a problem. I did a search to see what I can find and I couldn't find any post that really showed signs like mine, so now I'm posting here.

So first of all, I have noticed a fog on parts of the windshield that doesn't come off no matter what I use to clean it. So i narrowed that substance down to antifreeze that might have traveled up the vents. Secondly, I have noticed a loss of power under hard acceleration. Also, when accelerating hard, I smell antifreeze big time. Lastly, I have recently noticed my coolant gauge lighting up. Its full though...

I know this is probably one of two things, but there is a huge difference in the price of fixing these things so I want to see what you guys think about it.

I think its either the radiator (maybe some sort of hole thats causing leaking) or the heater core. (I still get a good amount of heat after 5 minutes of running)

GDawg · Nov 19, 2009

4.6vertGT said:
Hey all-

Thanks in advance for the help, but I have a 1996 gt and lately, i have noticed a problem. I did a search to see what I can find and I couldn't find any post that really showed signs like mine, so now I'm posting here.

So first of all, I have noticed a fog on parts of the windshield that doesn't come off no matter what I use to clean it. So i narrowed that substance down to antifreeze that might have traveled up the vents. Secondly, I have noticed a loss of power under hard acceleration. Also, when accelerating hard, I smell antifreeze big time. Lastly, I have recently noticed my coolant gauge lighting up. Its full though...

I know this is probably one of two things, but there is a huge difference in the price of fixing these things so I want to see what you guys think about it.

I think its either the radiator (maybe some sort of hole thats causing leaking) or the heater core. (I still get a good amount of heat after 5 minutes of running)

My experience on this one would be low but I would guess the heater core.

Rickyll7 · Nov 19, 2009

GDawg said:
My experience on this one would be low but I would guess the heater core.

+1, but it doesn't explain the power loss or the coolant light with coolant not being low. Could be separate issues.

Oh, and the smell gets worse during hard acceleration because the water pump is spinning up and pumping more coolant through your heater core leak.

I would double check your coolant level with that light and am sure that your power loss is a different issue.

deftsound · Nov 19, 2009

could it be your intake mainfold crossover? I dont know if you know, but 96-01's were notorious for having the intake crossovers crack and leaking coolant. After 01 (i think it was 01) they built the intake manifolds with aluminum crossovers to prevent this issue. Anyway its a Very common issue...check the front of your intake manifold above the water pump to see if there is any leaking coolant from that area, also check above that where the crossover is and behind.

4.6vertGT · Nov 19, 2009

alright. a few additions that i need to throw in here. The heater core was replaced about 3 years ago so unless it lasted 3 years and messed up because of a mistake in the installation, then i don't know if it could be that. Also, I have done the PI intake swap with an aluminum crossover so I don't think it is that. But now that im thinking more, when I took it to firestone for an inspection, they might have said something about a small hole in the radiator. If it was damaged, are these symptoms?

SaleenGT2001 · Nov 19, 2009

some heater cores dont last long.
i just replaced one in a 2008 cobalt about a month ago

Rickyll7 · Nov 19, 2009

4.6vertGT said:
alright. a few additions that i need to throw in here. The heater core was replaced about 3 years ago so unless it lasted 3 years and messed up because of a mistake in the installation, then i don't know if it could be that. Also, I have done the PI intake swap with an aluminum crossover so I don't think it is that. But now that im thinking more, when I took it to firestone for an inspection, they might have said something about a small hole in the radiator. If it was damaged, are these symptoms?

Did you fill the coolant system with tap water? Tap water contains minerals and salts which can accelerate corrosion. You may also have an electrical issue that could be driving corrosion via electrolysis. Check the voltage between the coolant and the ground on the battery. If you put tap water in the coolant system, change it out with distilled water and coolant or just the 50/50 Preston mix.

If your getting coolant vapor coming out of your defroster, it's got to be coming from your heater core.

How did Firestone determine you have a hole in the radiator? Did they just notice your coolant level low and assume or did they find coolant leaking from the radiator? Does your radiator smell like coolant? You could have a leak in both.

Also, not sure what the voltage allowable spec is between the ground and coolant, but it may be in a shop manual or you can find it here with a search.

4.6vertGT · Nov 25, 2009

alright guys. thanks for all of the help. i went to firestone and they ran a heating system test and determined that it actually is the heater core. this was also proceeded by the car getting even more fog (antifreeze) on the inside of the windshield. But there is one thing that i had a question on... i went out this morning and the antifreeze was almost completely gone, with a small puddle underneath the car. is this normal for just a heater core or could there be more problems? and should i just do the bypass until i get it fixed? thanks

4.6vertGT · Nov 25, 2009

any chance it could be an easy fix like this? (since the core is about 2 years old)...
Read this before you replace the heater core. - F150online Forums

wmburns · Nov 25, 2009

Loop the heater hoses to bypass the heater core. Do not cap the lines.

Refill the system. Drive on. No sense in worrying more about problems that you may not have.

The heater cores fail on these cars a lot. Esp the years without the restrictor in the heater lines.

The Mustang is not like the F150. The heater core lines go directly through the firewall. There is no hidden hoses running through the dash.

Expect to pay a lot to fix this. The entire dash has to be removed. Note, it is a job that a DIY can do (I won't lie. It's a big job).

Should you decide to do the work yourself, get a Chilton's manual. Very important. You will need a buddy to help remove the dash (two person job). IMO, it makes the job easier to remove the seats first.

Also, recommend that the AC evap be inspected. Once the dash is out, there will never be a better time to fix it if needed.

4.6vertGT · Nov 25, 2009

yeah, unfortunately, me and my stepdad replaced it before. good 8 hour job. thats why im dreading doing it again.

wmburns · Nov 25, 2009

4.6vertGT said:
yeah, unfortunately, me and my stepdad replaced it before. good 8 hour job. thats why im dreading doing it again.

Did you install a restrictor in the heater hose line? Consider doing it as this could have prevented a repeat failure.

4.6vertGT · Nov 25, 2009

i dont think we did, but i will do so this time around.

wmburns · Nov 26, 2009

Testing For Electrolysis

Here is a Ford TBS about the heater core and an important reason why they fail.

Note the part about grounds. This is esp true with big audio systems installed in many cars. The high current demands of a big audio system has to have a way back to the battery negative.

TSB 06-21-19
10/30/06
HEATER CORE LEAKAGE AND ELECTROLYSIS (INFORMATION ONLY)

FORD:
1997-2002 Contour
1997-2007 Crown Victoria, Mustang, Taurus
2000-2007 Focus
2002-2005 Thunderbird
2005-2007 Five Hundred, Freestyle
2006-2007 Fusion
1997-1999 F-250 Light Duty
1997-2003 Windstar
1997-2007 E-Series, Expedition, Explorer,
F-150, F-53 Motorhome Chassis,
F-Super Duty, Ranger

2000-2005 Excursion
2001-2003 Explorer Sport
2001-2007 Escape, Explorer Sport Trac
2004 F-150 Heritage
2004-2007 Freestar
2005-2007 Escape Hybrid
1999-2007 F-650, F-750

LINCOLN:
1997-2002 Continental
1997-2007 Town Car
2000-2006 Lincoln LS
2006 Zephyr
2007 MKZ
1998-2007 Navigator
2002-2003 Blackwood
2003-2005 Aviator
2006-2007 Mark LT

MERCURY:
1997-2002 Cougar, Mystique
1997-2005 Sable
1997-2007 Grand Marquis
2005-2007 Montego
2006-2007 Milan
1997-2002 Villager
1997-2007 Mountaineer
2005-2007 Mariner
2006-2007 Mariner Hybrid

This article supersedes TSB 01-15-6 to update the vehicle model years and Service Procedure.

ISSUE
The majority of repeat heater core leaks are due to high flow rate or use of poor quality coolant. However, electrolysis should also be checked, especially when repeat repairs have occurred.

ACTION
If the heater core is leaking, review the location of the leakage and check the condition of the coolant.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

1. Review the location of the leakage and check the condition of the coolant:

a. If leaks are found on the inlet (or outlet) tubes entering / exiting the heater core, it is most likely due to due to high flow rate - replace the heater core and install a restrictor in the heater hose closest to the engine block, reference Workshop Manual, Section 412.
b. If leaks are found in the body of the heater core itself, and does not appear to be the result of physical damage like contact or puncture, check the coolant for possible electrolysis.

Testing For Electrolysis

Check for voltage in the cooling system by touching the negative contact of a voltmeter to the battery ground or a known good ground and suspend the positive lead in the coolant, making sure it is in contact with the coolant but not touching any metal part of the radiator or cooling system. Both AC and DC voltages must be checked. Vehicles normally have DC voltages; however, a faulty engine block heater or faulty diode in the alternator can produce AC voltages. It is understood that coolant is lost due to heater core failure but try to obtain a voltage reading on the old coolant in the engine block before addition to or replacement of. To keep more coolant from exiting the heater core clamp off heater core lines and measure coolant in the engine block. Try not to dilute the original coolant with new coolant during testing if possible.

1. Determine whether coolant condition is acceptable.

a. Remove both cables from the battery and ensure they do not contact each other or the vehicle.
b. Touch negative lead of voltmeter to engine ground and positive lead in the coolant.

NOTE POSITIVE TEST PROBE IS IN THE COOLANT FOR TESTING.

c. Check the voltage in the cooling system. If less than or equal to 0.4 volts (V) OK, reconnect battery cables and proceed to Step 2.
d. If greater than 0.4 V, flush cooling system thoroughly.
e. Recheck voltage less than or equal to 0.4 V.
f. Reconnect battery cables.
g. Refill the system with appropriate Motorcraft® engine coolant.

2. Check for loose or missing grounds at static conditions.

a. Turn off all accessories. Turn ignition on but do not start engine.
b. Test with ground probe to battery ground, engine ground, and vehicle ground sequentially.
c. Voltage less than or equal to 0.4 V on all grounds OK.
d. Any one greater than 0.4 V, check and clean ground cable connections.
e. Check accessories without using the on off switch on the vehicle instrument panel, use a jumper wire to ground.
f. Plug in engine block heater, if equipped, and test.
g. Recheck voltage less than or equal to 0.4 V.
h. Unplug engine block heater, if equipped.

3. Check for loose, missing, or inadequate grounds.

a. Test with ground probe to battery ground, engine ground, and vehicle ground sequentially.
b. Crank engine but do not start.
c. Monitor voltage while cranking. less than or equal to 0.4 V OK
d. If greater than 0.4 V, ground or repair starter.
e. Start engine and run at about 2000 rpm.
f. Turn on all accessories including those customer only uses occasionally such as CB radio, cell phone, etc.
g. Test with ground probe to battery ground, engine ground, and vehicle ground sequentially.
h. Voltage less than or equal to 0.4 V OK
i. If greater than 0.4 V, turn off one item at a time until V drops to less than or equal to 0.4 V. Repair ground to the accessory just identified.
j. Recheck voltage less than or equal to 0.4 V
k. Turn the DVOM to AC volts.
l. Check for ANY AC voltage greater than 0.4.
m. If any AC voltage is present then try turning off each accessory one at a time including blower motor and any fan motors.
n. If AC voltage is still present then shut engine off and remove B+ from the alternator and tape it up then retest.
o. If voltage drop is gradual to less than or equal to 0.4 V, the ground straps may simply be overloaded by added accessories. Test by using heavy gauge jumper to ground. If indicated, install heavier gauge ground strap(s) and recheck.

NOTE If vehicle is equipped with electric cooling fans, be sure they cycle during this testing and monitor voltage when they are on and when off.

CAUTION DO NOT GROUND HEATER CORE. IF THE HEATER CORE IS GROUNDED, YOU HAVE PROVIDED THE ELECTROLOSIS A PATH THROUGH THE HEATER CORE. THIS WOULD CAUSE THE HEATER CORE TO BECOME AN ANODE OR RECEIVER AND IT WOULD PROMOTE THE ELECTROLOSIS, OR ANY STRAY VOLTAGE TO USE THE COOLANT AS THE GROUND PATH.

4. Refill the engine cooling system, reference Workshop Manual, Section 303-03.

NOTE IF THE HEAT OUTPUT IS INSUFFICIENT, OR THE ENGINE DOES NOT REACH NORMAL OPERATING TEMPERATURES, VERIFY PROPER THERMOSTAT OPERATION AND REPEAT PROCEDURE IF REQUIRED.

Help! Antifreeze smell!

4.6vertGT

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GDawg

Rickyll7

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deftsound

Please ask me how much my supercharger cost

4.6vertGT

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SaleenGT2001

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wmburns

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