So the PO had relocated the battery to the back. He did an OK job with it, but he left some key points exposed for grounding out ot touching things. I have been having electrical issues with the car since I owed it.
The issue occurs when trying to start the car after it warms up and I drive it for at least 30 minutes...it won't hardly crank. At first I thought it was a charging issue due to a bad ground in the trunk. Ends up that wasn't the issue as all the charging numbers were spot on when the car was running and the battery maintained the correct volts.
After about catching my car on fire last night, I finally believe I found the issue. Either I have an issue with my positive battery cable somewhere between the battery and the starter solenoid.
When getting stranded last night, I tried again and again to crank the car. I started smelling fire shortly after and noticed smoke in the back of the hatch. After quickly pulling the trunk floor cover back, I noticed the battery cable got so hot it caught the floor padding on fire due to exposed bolt posts on the inline fuse box.
The battery cables were smoking hot and even ended up melting the inline fuse case and part of the cable housing.
I'm absolutely shocked that the inline fuse didn't pop(fuse has 25 amp stamped on it). At that point I new I had an issue that I can't ignore. I took two sets of battery cables and daisy chained them together and put one end on the positive battery post(long positive cable still attached to the battery) and put the other end of the cables on the starter solenoid post that the battery cable connects to(again, I left the battery cable still attached. I tried starting it again and the car fired right up!!!This tells me that I have an issue with my positive cable having a bad connection somewhere in the mix, corrosion issues inside the cable, or incorrect cable size.
The current battery cable size is 2/0 (good up to 500 current amps 60% duty cycle at a Max of 100 ft). The stock battery cold crank amps is 540 amps. Since that number is higher than what the current 2/0 cable can provide, should I go to 3/0(good up to 600 current amps 60% duty cycle at a Max of 150 ft)?
So my core questions are out of this rant is:
1: Is my current battery cable the correct size?
2: What size/style of inline fuse should I be using?
I know a lot of guys/gals don't run an inline fuse...but I prefer having one.
Thanks!
The issue occurs when trying to start the car after it warms up and I drive it for at least 30 minutes...it won't hardly crank. At first I thought it was a charging issue due to a bad ground in the trunk. Ends up that wasn't the issue as all the charging numbers were spot on when the car was running and the battery maintained the correct volts.
After about catching my car on fire last night, I finally believe I found the issue. Either I have an issue with my positive battery cable somewhere between the battery and the starter solenoid.
When getting stranded last night, I tried again and again to crank the car. I started smelling fire shortly after and noticed smoke in the back of the hatch. After quickly pulling the trunk floor cover back, I noticed the battery cable got so hot it caught the floor padding on fire due to exposed bolt posts on the inline fuse box.
The battery cables were smoking hot and even ended up melting the inline fuse case and part of the cable housing.
I'm absolutely shocked that the inline fuse didn't pop(fuse has 25 amp stamped on it). At that point I new I had an issue that I can't ignore. I took two sets of battery cables and daisy chained them together and put one end on the positive battery post(long positive cable still attached to the battery) and put the other end of the cables on the starter solenoid post that the battery cable connects to(again, I left the battery cable still attached. I tried starting it again and the car fired right up!!!This tells me that I have an issue with my positive cable having a bad connection somewhere in the mix, corrosion issues inside the cable, or incorrect cable size.
The current battery cable size is 2/0 (good up to 500 current amps 60% duty cycle at a Max of 100 ft). The stock battery cold crank amps is 540 amps. Since that number is higher than what the current 2/0 cable can provide, should I go to 3/0(good up to 600 current amps 60% duty cycle at a Max of 150 ft)?
So my core questions are out of this rant is:
1: Is my current battery cable the correct size?
2: What size/style of inline fuse should I be using?
I know a lot of guys/gals don't run an inline fuse...but I prefer having one.
Thanks!