Help...Can't figure this out(Clutch Problems)

JT87NAT · Jun 1, 2005

Here is some background...my buddy just bought an 88 5.0. The clutch was slipping so we replaced it with a Spec Stage II, brand new throwout bearing, pilot bearing, pressure plate, clutch disc. For the first 100 or so miles we had no problems at all. There is an adjustable clutch cable that runs through the clutch fork, two nuts are tightened against the back of the clutch fork, one is for adjustment one is to lock it down so it doesn't move. For some reason now there is a few inches of play at the top of the clutch pedal and the clutch stays engaged so you can't shift at all. At first I thought it was just something with the clutch adjustment, but I have adjusted it a few times and marked with whiteout where I tightened it to, the adjustment nuts are not moving at all. Has anyone else had similar problems?

2 Questions

1. Is there any way the clutch fork is bending, how would I figure this out?

2. Could the throwout bearing be getting stuck on the output shaft not allowing the clutch to release?

3. WTF is going on

JT87NAT · Jun 1, 2005

Anyone?

ECU5.0 · Jun 1, 2005

is the stock quadrant still on the car? if you dont know...look up under the dash right above the gas pedal and you should see it. if its the stock one it will be white and plastic.

JT87NAT · Jun 1, 2005

ECU5.0 said:
is the stock quadrant still on the car? if you dont know...look up under the dash right above the gas pedal and you should see it. if its the stock one it will be white and plastic.

Are you talking about the thing that holds the clutch cable? If you are then no, the semi circle thing that holds the clutch cable is metal...

HISSIN50 · Jun 1, 2005

Do you think the cable is stretching and getting ready to give out? Some adjustable aftermarket cables dont do too hot.

good luck.

JT87NAT · Jun 2, 2005

I really don't know, trying to figure this out, the clutch pedal takes alot of pressure to push down.

dcarlson · Jun 2, 2005

Look closely at the rubber bushing where the cable goes throught he firewall. Sometimes they split and allow the cable to move without releasing the clutch.

Have someone step on the clutch while you watch at the bellhousing. If the forward end of the threaded rod hits the end of the cable sheath (where it goes thouigh the bellhousing) it will stretch the cable. If that is hapening e-mail me and I can explain how to fix it.

JT87NAT · Jun 2, 2005

dcarlson said:
Look closely at the rubber bushing where the cable goes throught he firewall. Sometimes they split and allow the cable to move without releasing the clutch.

Have someone step on the clutch while you watch at the bellhousing. If the forward end of the threaded rod hits the end of the cable sheath (where it goes thouigh the bellhousing) it will stretch the cable. If that is hapening e-mail me and I can explain how to fix it.

Don't think it is hitting the sheath, but I will take a look at it...

wht93gtEd · Jun 2, 2005

my car has an adjustable cable with aluminum quadrant, but we ran out of adjustment when we put it in.

I added 2 extra nuts on the cable (where it attaches to the clutch fork) as a spacer. This gave me the added adjustment I needed to allow the proper engagement/disengagement of the clutch.

example:
see attached (really crappy & fast drawing)

I don't know why I had to do it like that, but it works & has worked for about 8 months now.

JT87NAT · Jun 2, 2005

Thanks for all the replies, I think the clutch cable is stretching, because I keep adjusting it tighter and it will work for a bit, then there will be play in the clutch pedal and I can't get it into gear. The adjustment nut is all the way torwards the front of the adjustment bolt and I still have around 4 inches of play...

JT87NAT · Jun 2, 2005

wht93gtEd said:
my car has an adjustable cable with aluminum quadrant, but we ran out of adjustment when we put it in.

I added 2 extra nuts on the cable (where it attaches to the clutch fork) as a spacer. This gave me the added adjustment I needed to allow the proper engagement/disengagement of the clutch.

example:
see attached (really crappy & fast drawing)

I don't know why I had to do it like that, but it works & has worked for about 8 months now.

The problem is the clutch works fine after I tighten it down, but then there is play in the cable again, I know the adjustment screws are not moving so the clutch cable has to be stretching since I have to keep tightening it. I just ordered a clutch cable kit from maximum motorsports that includes an oem spec aluminum clutch quadrant, lengthened ford clutch cable, and firewall adjustment kit. Hopefully this fixes the problems.

dcarlson · Jun 2, 2005

wht93gtEd said:
my car has an adjustable cable with aluminum quadrant, but we ran out of adjustment when we put it in.

I added 2 extra nuts on the cable (where it attaches to the clutch fork) as a spacer. This gave me the added adjustment I needed to allow the proper engagement/disengagement of the clutch.

That sounds like you have a quadrant designed for a firewall adjuster but are useing an adjustable cable instead. The hook is in a different position, thus the reason for the Steeda double hook quadrant.

JT87NAT · Jun 2, 2005

dcarlson said:
That sounds like you have a quadrant designed for a firewall adjuster but are useing an adjustable cable instead. The hook is in a different position, thus the reason for the Steeda double hook quadrant.

This shouldn't make a difference though if the clutch cable is adjusted properly correct? There is no possible way the clutch cable should keep loosening up unless it is stretching or binding, which I believe it is doing both...Hopefully the MM clutch cable kit with quadrant and firewall adjustment fixes this problem.

dcarlson · Jun 2, 2005

JT87NAT, Yeah, I was talking to wht93gtEd. In his case it would make a difference because there is not enough adjustment built into the cable to make up the difference.

It shouldn't apply to you. My guess is that the cable sheath is actually crushing, not that the cable is getting longer. Same effect. A broken and binding throwout bearing will sometimes make the clutch so hard to release that the cable breaks/crushes. Or you could just have a bad cable and the TOB might be fine.

JT87NAT · Jun 2, 2005

dcarlson said:
JT87NAT, Yeah, I was talking to wht93gtEd. In his case it would make a difference because there is not enough adjustment built into the cable to make up the difference.

It shouldn't apply to you. My guess is that the cable sheath is actually crushing, not that the cable is getting longer. Same effect. A broken and binding throwout bearing will sometimes make the clutch so hard to release that the cable breaks/crushes. Or you could just have a bad cable and the TOB might be fine.

Brand new clutch disc, pp, pilot bearing, and throwout bearing, I did notice that the clutch cables outer sheath was melted where it went next to the header, although it isnt all the way through I am sure it could be binding there. Thanks.

v8only · Jun 3, 2005

you are exactly right on, everything you describes points towards a stretching clutch cable. very common, especially with those ****ty adjustable cables.

since you're having header issues, I don't doubt it.

mm sells the sn95 clutch cable. it's longer, it'll work, and you can route it away from the headers.

do that, be sure it's routed UNDER the k member. and buy a firewall adjuster, use the oem stock cable. this should solve your problems

JT87NAT · Jun 3, 2005

v8only said:
you are exactly right on, everything you describes points towards a stretching clutch cable. very common, especially with those ****ty adjustable cables.

since you're having header issues, I don't doubt it.

mm sells the sn95 clutch cable. it's longer, it'll work, and you can route it away from the headers.

do that, be sure it's routed UNDER the k member. and buy a firewall adjuster, use the oem stock cable. this should solve your problems

Thanks alot, I talked my friend into buying the MM kit with the oem spec aluminum quadrant, lengthened sn95 oem ford clutch cable, and firewall adjuster. Does the clutch cable run in front of the oil filter and then under the front crossmember? Or k-member as you call it? Where does the new cable attach to the body with the bracket? Should have the kit by Tuesday so I will post up some pics and how it is working...Later.

v8only · Jun 3, 2005

cable attaches just past the shock tower on the frame rail. you're exactly right as to routing, poke it down near the oil filter, above the steering rack, below the k member, under the car to the fork.

here is a pic. excuse the nasty engine, I just pulled that pos Tue in prep for my new engine.

that mm kit should fix you up pretty good.

JT87NAT · Jun 3, 2005

Thanks alot V-8 only, wish me luck. Later.

v8only · Jun 4, 2005

Hey, I took a better routing pic for you, now that my engine is out. It actually pokes under the engine mount part of the k member

Help...Can't figure this out(Clutch Problems)

New Member

New Member

Banned

New Member

"How long does it take to get help in here?

New Member

Member

New Member

Active Member

Attachments

New Member

New Member

Member

New Member

Member

New Member

Active Member

New Member

Active Member

New Member

Active Member

Similar threads

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency