Basically, the spill free funnel does what your mechanic recommended without making a mess. The radiator “overflows” into the funnel.No I do not, I have heard mixed things about these as far as if they actually help anything or just make it easier, I was suggested by my mechanic to let the coolant "find it's level" by overflowing but this seems to me like that would just be introducing air into the system? i.e. pushing coolant out but not pulling it back in? I may end up grabbing one of those funnels though, couldnt hurt at this point.
Thanks for you response
I like it.This is the one I have in my car. It's mounted between master cylinder and battery using flat stock to make brackets.
A normal power steering pump might interfere with this location but I use a Volvo electric pump.
stock style cap that come with SVE radiator, should I look into the Ford Racing cap or do they open at the same pressure? (thinking about swapping for fluidyne radiator this year)What is the pressure of the cap and what type of over flow tank ?
MishimotoWhat electric fans are you using, and what are you using to trigger them?
Just saw you answered the second part already
This looks great however with my AC delete kit I wouldnt be able to fit an overflow there, it would need to be on the far side of the radiator near where the charcoal canister used to be, thanks for your response.This is the one I have in my car. It's mounted between master cylinder and battery using flat stock to make brackets.
A normal power steering pump might interfere with this location but I use a Volvo electric pump.
Good spot for it.The fans are hooked to a sensor that threads into the port at the bottom of the radiator,
nowhere to fit it with big dual fan shroud!The rating is on the cap
Don't understand why a stock recovery tank can't be used?
also just ordered a motorcraft 180 tstat, will be installing and going through this and all the recommended bleeding/filling procedures as soon as everything is here.Sure sounds like some air to me and once the engine is at normal operating temperature
The thermostat will still cycle if working properly but you have to watch the gauge real close to tell when open or closed
If in doubt replace the thermostat again with a Motorcraft. You want the one they hand you over the Ford dealer parts counter
Take 30 minutes to add the coolant. Keep topping it off and squeeze the upper hose and relax it to push air bubbles out
Repeat several times. Then the first time you drive it you will damn sure see the thermostat cycle
I let them cycle once and then cool down completely (watching the overflow tank) some coolant should be sucked from the tank
If it does not you got trouble with a leak somewhere
You guys know right?
For every pound of pressure it raises the boiling point by 2 degrees
So with a 16 Lb. cap the coolant will not boil until 212 + 32 = 246
The 16lb cap I believe is factory recommendedIt might overheat with a 180
The T stat will be open soon and forever
As long as your radiator and fan can cool the coolant you will be okay
The idea is with a 195 the coolant circulates and cool coolant in the engine takes a few minutes to get hot
That leaves the hot coolant in the radiator long enough to cool down
So the lower temp makes the stat be open constantly and never closes
That causes the coolant to circulate constantly
Sometimes or most of the time that is insufficient. The radiator cannot cool the coolant that fast resulting in overheat
The coolant gets hotter and hotter and hotter until it overheats
Try them both
I have personally witnessed this at least twice. These builds had water shooting through the cooing system so fast it was leaving before it got even halfway to ambient.Problems with coolant not cooling in a radiator come more from a HI PO water pump in my research...
+1 to everything in this post.Problems with coolant not cooling in a radiator come more from a HI PO water pump in my research... Pushing too much or too fast through the radiator.
I have seen electric fans plug up the "air flow" in a radiator to where they cause more problems than they are worth
General, if my car was running those temps I might try a 195 in it to see if it runs a more steady temp??? ( did you get your coffee reminder?)
A friend installed a cooler t stat in his minivan family cruiser... I " believe" it had a 210 in it and he installed a 180 or 190 so his poor little V6 could run cooler.... Thing ran poorly, fuel mileage was awful.... He reinstalled a 210 ( what was correct for this vehicle) and it fixed all that was bad...
Apparently the computer was telling it to run richer as it was not " warmed up " yet with the cooler stat.....
EVERYONE on here knows more about FI then I do so don't shoot the messenger, but I wanted to share this story....
yea I will take a look if its written on the cap, however no mention of psi rating is on the item listing pageYou still didn't say but the cap should be rated at 16lbs
The car has never overheated under normal driving conditions so there is no issue with the fan setup, tstat rating, water pump, etc.It might overheat with a 180
The T stat will be open soon and forever
As long as your radiator and fan can cool the coolant you will be okay
The idea is with a 195 the coolant circulates and cool coolant in the engine takes a few minutes to get hot
That leaves the hot coolant in the radiator long enough to cool down
So the lower temp makes the stat be open constantly and never closes
That causes the coolant to circulate constantly
Sometimes or most of the time that is insufficient. The radiator cannot cool the coolant that fast resulting in overheat
The coolant gets hotter and hotter and hotter until it overheats
Try them both
I still have the air dam intact, and the overheating only happened once and at idle, I have determined due to an air pocket at the thermostat.+1 to everything in this post.
The other thing I would like to add for AeroNose guys specifically.......................dotdotdot
Do you know that little chin spoiler that comes on the car stock and almost everybody breaks and throws away? That damned thing is important. The monicker "AeroNose" has nothing at all to do with any wind tunnel test results.
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