Engine Help diagnose random overheating??
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This is the one I have in my car. It's mounted between master cylinder and battery using flat stock to make brackets.
A normal power steering pump might interfere with this location but I use a Volvo electric pump.
A normal power steering pump might interfere with this location but I use a Volvo electric pump.
Cheapskate207
The left one hangs a little lower
Basically, the spill free funnel does what your mechanic recommended without making a mess. The radiator “overflows” into the funnel.
I like it.This is the one I have in my car. It's mounted between master cylinder and battery using flat stock to make brackets.
A normal power steering pump might interfere with this location but I use a Volvo electric pump.
I stuck with a boring stock replacement because of space.
stock style cap that come with SVE radiator, should I look into the Ford Racing cap or do they open at the same pressure? (thinking about swapping for fluidyne radiator this year)
SVE overflow tank, only 14 oz which I am now thinking is too small for my purposes considering the stock one is 56 oz, looking at a few replacement options now..
Mishimoto
This looks great however with my AC delete kit I wouldnt be able to fit an overflow there, it would need to be on the far side of the radiator near where the charcoal canister used to be, thanks for your response.This is the one I have in my car. It's mounted between master cylinder and battery using flat stock to make brackets.
A normal power steering pump might interfere with this location but I use a Volvo electric pump.
manicmechanic007
5 Year Member
Sure sounds like some air to me and once the engine is at normal operating temperature
The thermostat will still cycle if working properly but you have to watch the gauge real close to tell when open or closed
If in doubt replace the thermostat again with a Motorcraft. You want the one they hand you over the Ford dealer parts counter
Take 30 minutes to add the coolant. Keep topping it off and squeeze the upper hose and relax it to push air bubbles out
Repeat several times. Then the first time you drive it you will damn sure see the thermostat cycle
I let them cycle once and then cool down completely (watching the overflow tank) some coolant should be sucked from the tank
If it does not you got trouble with a leak somewhere
The thermostat will still cycle if working properly but you have to watch the gauge real close to tell when open or closed
If in doubt replace the thermostat again with a Motorcraft. You want the one they hand you over the Ford dealer parts counter
Take 30 minutes to add the coolant. Keep topping it off and squeeze the upper hose and relax it to push air bubbles out
Repeat several times. Then the first time you drive it you will damn sure see the thermostat cycle
I let them cycle once and then cool down completely (watching the overflow tank) some coolant should be sucked from the tank
If it does not you got trouble with a leak somewhere
nowhere to fit it with big dual fan shroud!
ordered a canton 56 oz and will be swapping soon!
also just ordered a motorcraft 180 tstat, will be installing and going through this and all the recommended bleeding/filling procedures as soon as everything is here.
Thanks everyone for the input so far, appreciated.
manicmechanic007
5 Year Member
It might overheat with a 180
The T stat will be open soon and forever
As long as your radiator and fan can cool the coolant you will be okay
The idea is with a 195 the coolant circulates and cool coolant in the engine takes a few minutes to get hot
That leaves the hot coolant in the radiator long enough to cool down
So the lower temp makes the stat be open constantly and never closes
That causes the coolant to circulate constantly
Sometimes or most of the time that is insufficient. The radiator cannot cool the coolant that fast resulting in overheat
The coolant gets hotter and hotter and hotter until it overheats
Try them both
The T stat will be open soon and forever
As long as your radiator and fan can cool the coolant you will be okay
The idea is with a 195 the coolant circulates and cool coolant in the engine takes a few minutes to get hot
That leaves the hot coolant in the radiator long enough to cool down
So the lower temp makes the stat be open constantly and never closes
That causes the coolant to circulate constantly
Sometimes or most of the time that is insufficient. The radiator cannot cool the coolant that fast resulting in overheat
The coolant gets hotter and hotter and hotter until it overheats
Try them both
manicmechanic007
5 Year Member
You guys know right?
For every pound of pressure it raises the boiling point by 2 degrees
So with a 16 Lb. cap the coolant will not boil until 212 + 32 = 246
For every pound of pressure it raises the boiling point by 2 degrees
So with a 16 Lb. cap the coolant will not boil until 212 + 32 = 246
The 16lb cap I believe is factory recommended
And I've been running a 180* since forever in my mustang with no problems. Never getting over 200-210 in traffic and never below 190.
The OEM t-stat is 192*. I have not personally had an issue with the OEM t-stats, even when I was running in the high desert.
I swapped to a 180* t-stat when I installed the Kenne Bell because I [wanted] the t-stat to open earlier and remain open longer (even though the heat soak is [nothing] like interwebz wannabeez would have you believe but that is another topic).
Take that for what it's worth. You get diminishing returns on lower temp t-stats and it's also possible to prevent the oil from getting hot enough to boil off any water that it has accumulated.
With a 192* thermostat, your cooling system is generally more efficient overall. I mean, the warmer your cooling system is, the more heat will transfer to the fins and ambient air with the least amount of travel.
A 180* t-stat can help to combat heat-soak and set the cooing system up ahead of time, for heat spikes from boost.
I don't know if I explained that very well. karthief will probably tell me.
I swapped to a 180* t-stat when I installed the Kenne Bell because I [wanted] the t-stat to open earlier and remain open longer (even though the heat soak is [nothing] like interwebz wannabeez would have you believe but that is another topic).
Take that for what it's worth. You get diminishing returns on lower temp t-stats and it's also possible to prevent the oil from getting hot enough to boil off any water that it has accumulated.
With a 192* thermostat, your cooling system is generally more efficient overall. I mean, the warmer your cooling system is, the more heat will transfer to the fins and ambient air with the least amount of travel.
A 180* t-stat can help to combat heat-soak and set the cooing system up ahead of time, for heat spikes from boost.
I don't know if I explained that very well. karthief will probably tell me.
Problems with coolant not cooling in a radiator come more from a HI PO water pump in my research... Pushing too much or too fast through the radiator.
I have seen electric fans plug up the "air flow" in a radiator to where they cause more problems than they are worth
General, if my car was running those temps I might try a 195 in it to see if it runs a more steady temp??? ( did you get your coffee reminder?)
A friend installed a cooler t stat in his minivan family cruiser... I " believe" it had a 210 in it and he installed a 180 or 190 so his poor little V6 could run cooler.... Thing ran poorly, fuel mileage was awful.... He reinstalled a 210 ( what was correct for this vehicle) and it fixed all that was bad...
Apparently the computer was telling it to run richer as it was not " warmed up " yet with the cooler stat.....
EVERYONE on here knows more about FI then I do so don't shoot the messenger, but I wanted to share this story....
I have seen electric fans plug up the "air flow" in a radiator to where they cause more problems than they are worth
General, if my car was running those temps I might try a 195 in it to see if it runs a more steady temp??? ( did you get your coffee reminder?)
A friend installed a cooler t stat in his minivan family cruiser... I " believe" it had a 210 in it and he installed a 180 or 190 so his poor little V6 could run cooler.... Thing ran poorly, fuel mileage was awful.... He reinstalled a 210 ( what was correct for this vehicle) and it fixed all that was bad...
Apparently the computer was telling it to run richer as it was not " warmed up " yet with the cooler stat.....
EVERYONE on here knows more about FI then I do so don't shoot the messenger, but I wanted to share this story....
I have personally witnessed this at least twice. These builds had water shooting through the cooing system so fast it was leaving before it got even halfway to ambient.
The first time I ever saw this happen, we had been working on a dude's car for a couple weeks (troubleshoot/test/run/DD until next failure kind of thing) before he thought to mention the high flow water pump.
+1 to everything in this post.
The other thing I would like to add for AeroNose guys specifically.......................dotdotdot
Do you know that little chin spoiler that comes on the car stock and almost everybody breaks and throws away? That damned thing is important. The monicker "AeroNose" has nothing at all to do with any wind tunnel test results.
yea I will take a look if its written on the cap, however no mention of psi rating is on the item listing page
The car has never overheated under normal driving conditions so there is no issue with the fan setup, tstat rating, water pump, etc.
It had an air pocket trapped at the thermostat that caused it to close and overheat, I am just trying to determine the cause of that and how to eliminate it now.
I still have the air dam intact, and the overheating only happened once and at idle, I have determined due to an air pocket at the thermostat.+1 to everything in this post.
The other thing I would like to add for AeroNose guys specifically.......................dotdotdot
Do you know that little chin spoiler that comes on the car stock and almost everybody breaks and throws away? That damned thing is important. The monicker "AeroNose" has nothing at all to do with any wind tunnel test results.
Thanks all who replied for your help so far.
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