That important piece is called an air Dam.+1 to everything in this post.
The other thing I would like to add for AeroNose guys specifically.......................dotdotdot
Do you know that little chin spoiler that comes on the car stock and almost everybody breaks and throws away? That damned thing is important. The monicker "AeroNose" has nothing at all to do with any wind tunnel test results.
Huh??? Wat I do now??? I tell ya it wernt me!! I be innocent.........The OEM t-stat is 192*. I have not personally had an issue with the OEM t-stats, even when I was running in the high desert.
I swapped to a 180* t-stat when I installed the Kenne Bell because I [wanted] the t-stat to open earlier and remain open longer (even though the heat soak is [nothing] like interwebz wannabeez would have you believe but that is another topic).
Take that for what it's worth. You get diminishing returns on lower temp t-stats and it's also possible to prevent the oil from getting hot enough to boil off any water that it has accumulated.
With a 192* thermostat, your cooling system is generally more efficient overall. I mean, the warmer your cooling system is, the more heat will transfer to the fins and ambient air with the least amount of travel.
A 180* t-stat can help to combat heat-soak and set the cooing system up ahead of time, for heat spikes from boost.
I don't know if I explained that very well. karthief will probably tell me.
I got the pun. But I do not think you are in high risk of banning yourself, are you?I said, "damned thing"
I explained this once before. It keeps telling me that I can't ban myself.I got the pun. But I do not think you are in high risk of banning yourself, are you?
On my list of projects is adding one to a 1960’s car that does not have one. I plan on putting it on the bottom of the radiator support. It’s the air dam from an S-10 (cheap, easy enough to cut and is still tough) that I’ve seen used on different vehicles with a little modification. If it helps highway cooling and lessens front end lift, it will be a win.
Idles real nice around 750 when warm, I had it lower for a bit but the choppy cam seems to like it better where it is.If it has fuel injection the ECT wants to see 195 or better to idle down and run lean
With a 180 it will run rich and never slow down to 650 idle. Instead it will idle around 800 and fail I/M & Turn on the light
Looks like going racing anyway so maybe it matters not
Posts like yours Tom allow us all to talk back and forth to see what worksyea I will take a look if its written on the cap, however no mention of psi rating is on the item listing page
The car has never overheated under normal driving conditions so there is no issue with the fan setup, tstat rating, water pump, etc.
It had an air pocket trapped at the thermostat that caused it to close and overheat, I am just trying to determine the cause of that and how to eliminate it now.
I still have the air dam intact, and the overheating only happened once and at idle, I have determined due to an air pocket at the thermostat.
Thanks all who replied for your help so far.
Inaccurate statements like this is why people get so confused with their cooling system.The point of these is they do not shut from higher pressure at higher RPM.
That statement is straight from the company’s promo. “high flow pressure” presses against the spring in a standard type thermostat in systems that pump out through the upper radiator hose.Inaccurate statements like this is why people get so confused with their cooling system.
Shuts from higher pressure ??? If the t-stat is open, a pressure increase on either side will equalize as soon as it starts to increase and therefore you will never have higher pressure on either side. With equal pressure on both sides, the t-stat will move how it wants. As well at higher RPM you are likely generating more heat and t-stat will stay open. Best way to never have this problem is design the cooling system to keep the t-stat open once up to temperature.
The way to keep the t-stat open is have a lower rated t-stat (I have a 180 unit) and have your e-fan controller temp switch in the cold side of the rad (mine is in the lower rad hose) and have a temp switch that will allow coolant to get to 195-200 before turning on the e-fans. The shut off temp for my switch is about 185. This way the coolant going into the engine will be consistent and at the temp the ECM likes it, the t-stat will keep the coolant flowing so none of the pressure lock or other issues like that will occur.
My car will run ALL day with this scenario with temps between 185 and 200, only turning on low speed on my Contour fans periodically (when in stop and go traffic).
If you have the e-fans set to a lower temp, the fans will run more, your engine will be getting hot, then cold, then hot again and cold again (as the t-stat cycles and slugs of cold coolant go through the engine). In my opinion this scenario is not conducive for a consistent running engine.