I just put B springs on with Monroe shocks/struts with MM isolators and well I need to get an alignment. I've had alignment problems before (way out or range) so before I go for another, I was wondering wether I should get the CC plates. Will they really help with the alignment I'm having. I've also replaced the rack, outer tie rods, and ball joints just within the last months. This is my daily driver so I'm not looking for any performance suspension settings. If so, which plates should I go with? I like MM because of quality but the price is a bit much. Which other ones are good? I'm willing to spend the doe though for quality and not crap.
Help! Do I need CC plates?
- Thread starter JAZ 5.0
- Start date
NKau
Founding Member
JAZ 5.0 said:
The MM pieces are GREAT. Install took a couple hours; really really easy to do yourself. Can't really beat them.
bmorrisj
Member
you need to do better than monroe(stock replacement) if your car is lowerd, those pieces wont be able to control the suspension very well on a lowered car... or if you dont mind feeling every little ripple and bump on the ground, from your tires not being able to be firmly planted on the ground...
Well the Monroe's are the "Sensa-Shock's" and the ride is actually better. Originally I was just going to go with KYB, but I kept getting people tell me they are overrated, no that they're not good. So I just went with those.
Any other opinions...thanks.
Any other opinions...thanks.
MM plates kick ass. Like said, very easy to install. just follow the directions and make sure you get all the pieces where they need to be (because you get a ton of nuts and spacers). My alignment guy said that aligning is was a piece of cake.
Stang8URMPRT
Active Member
Good lord, you people are crazy for installing CC plates. I am for the most part an alignment tech at Ford, and you DON'T need the plates. All we do is take the strut plate off and elongate the the holes in the strut tower towards which side the caster/camber needs to go. Once you do the alignment, it won't need to go the opposite way unless you bend the frame or bend a suspension part. CC plates are a pointless upgrade that's not needed. Don't flame me, cause I know first hand. I literally do 2-3 Mustang alignments a day.
Nick
Nick
Stang8URMPRT
Active Member
If you can't elongate the holes enough, there is something wrong with suspension parts being bent or the frame. I've gotten 3 degrees of negative camber out before this way, and still had some room left to elongate... If you ran out with CC Plates, I'm sure you could actually elongate the holes and move it over, then adjust with the CC plates if it was THAT far out.JAZ 5.0 said:
Well as I mentioned I have replaced most of the suspension parts, but I was in an accident in which the lady hit my front driver side ramming me into the curb on the passenger side. Everything was fixed like 2 years ago, but I don't know if that would have anything to do with it.
If you can't elongate the holes enough, there is something wrong with suspension parts being bent or the frame. I've gotten 3 degrees of negative camber out before this way, and still had some room left to elongate... If you ran out with CC Plates, I'm sure you could actually elongate the holes and move it over, then adjust with the CC plates if it was THAT far out.
My opinion
The places that have a hard time getting a good alignment out of stock plates are the ones who do not elongate the holes. I would worry about the loss of material causing fatigue strength issues. How much edge margin do you feel is acceptable? Also, the vast majority of aftermarket CC plates are quite thick, which implies increased rigidity for a part of the vehicle which sees some decent loads, I feel this to be pretty important. Finally, I have found it challenging to get a decent alignment done. Sometimes it is because the alignment tech is a rookie, and other times he just doesn't know/care what he's doing. Either way I don't want to put an extra burden on a guy who is already having a hard time with parts of my car that my life depend on.
More than I planned to write here, but its fun to get up on the soap box.
Oh, Yeah. I installed the BBK (I think they were BBK) CC plates a few years ago. They went in easily and look pretty decent. No complaints from the alignment shops.
My opinion
The places that have a hard time getting a good alignment out of stock plates are the ones who do not elongate the holes. I would worry about the loss of material causing fatigue strength issues. How much edge margin do you feel is acceptable? Also, the vast majority of aftermarket CC plates are quite thick, which implies increased rigidity for a part of the vehicle which sees some decent loads, I feel this to be pretty important. Finally, I have found it challenging to get a decent alignment done. Sometimes it is because the alignment tech is a rookie, and other times he just doesn't know/care what he's doing. Either way I don't want to put an extra burden on a guy who is already having a hard time with parts of my car that my life depend on.
More than I planned to write here, but its fun to get up on the soap box.
Oh, Yeah. I installed the BBK (I think they were BBK) CC plates a few years ago. They went in easily and look pretty decent. No complaints from the alignment shops.
Stang8URMPRT
Active Member
Before I started working at Ford, I was amazed at how horrible alignment techs were. They never adjusted caster or camber, if it's adjustable. When I started working at Ford... Caster/Camber is manditory. We don't let a car leave without informing the customer that the caster/camber is out of range and that they need it done. It is more expensive to do it if it's not adjustable without adding parts or having to modify something. I would have to say it obviously takes SOME structual integrity out of it, but it is very minimal. If you need an alignment done, take it to someone you know knows how to do alignments correctly.. and isn't a "toe and go" master. I can't speak for all Ford dealers, but I know we do it right the first time and have no problems giving you a print out to show what we adjusted and how it looked before, and how it looks afterward.
Well I've taken it both times to 2 different Ford dealers. The first time it seemed to be aligned, but rapidly wore the inside of my tires (more than normal). The second time another Ford dealer said that everything was out of whack and that the frame needed to be straightend out. The car was only in the very minor accident (fender bender) earlier just causing repairs on the fender, corner light, rack & pinion, and pass. rim. That's it; so my whole reason in asking was to make sure I don't have to take it without it just to find out that it wasn't done right. Basically I want it done right the first time.
the camber plates will help, But not always eliminate the need to elongate the strut mounting holes. I used some hpm plates once and still had to elongate holes to get to stock settings. If you have to buy plates I have used Steeda plates that gave me plenty of room. Otherwise save the cash and just drill the holes.
fox racer
Member
if you plan on never ever ever going to coil-overs... go ahead and get upr's. high quality, strong aluminum, cheap price. but if coil overs are a possibility in the future, go with the MM's... steel, strong, and made specifically for coil-overs
I don't ever see my self going with coil overs. Being my first stang and a vert, I just want to make a fun daily driver, but that's not until the future. I just want to get an a right alignment so that my tires don't wear out excessively on one side.
mricci
Member
Sure Stang8URIMPORT is right about not needing them for a regular car, but there is nowhere near enough adjustment in the stock plates for a car that has a decent drop. Another reason to go with a better C/C plate is to get a different bushing or bearing in the top to absorb bumps compared to the flimsly rubber one in the stock plates. Not a waste of money. Maybe if your car is stock yes. Lowered 1/1/2 inches. Nope.
