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HELP! exaust problems

  • Thread starter Thread starter 66nathen
  • Start date Start date Jan 21, 2007
6

66nathen

New Member
Jan 10, 2007
27
0
0
Jan 21, 2007
#1
  • Jan 21, 2007
  • #1
have a 289...just went from a 2bl motocraft carb to a edelbrock 500...got it out of the shop after it was put on and ran fine for a day. The next day i went and got the 14 by 3 air cleaner by edelbrock and started having bad exaust problems. The exaust is white and there is way WAY to much comin out. Also, my temp went way up and was burnin up all the coolant i kept puttin in there. I just installed a new thermostat and my cooling systems been workin fine till i got this new carb (heard that the gas can start to boil if to hot)....I noticed smoke (or steam) comin from out of the cap that screws onto the valve cover. Also, when i checked my oil all there was in there was foam and i couldnt get an acurate reading of the oil level. Im going intall the banjo adaptor thing that came with the edelbrock air cleaner and connect a hose from that to cap on the valve cover like my stock air cleaner was....is that the problem? do i need to be runnin my carb leaner? or am i having vaccum issues? i have hi-po manifolds and flowies so i know that my exaust is fine...any advice would help! oh and i do have a timing vaccum....if that matters....cuz i know theres another type of vaccum.
 

jcode68

Active Member
Jul 15, 2003
892
1
29
Massachussetts
Jan 21, 2007
#2
  • Jan 21, 2007
  • #2
Sounds to me like you have a bad coolant leak getting into your cylinder heads. My guess is the shop swapped the intake manifold and didn't use the proper gaskets. Based on what you describe, you shouldn't run the car. Take it back to the shop that did the work and have them fix it.
 
D

D.Hearne

New Member
Sep 29, 2000
11,730
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0
south louisiana
Jan 21, 2007
#3
  • Jan 21, 2007
  • #3
Ditto, the shop you used botched the job. You've got coolant going into the intake ports and the crankcase. Pull the dipstick and see the milkshake. It's possible that they didn't retorque the intake bolts several times till the intake seated against the gaskets. With a Ford small block intake bolt layout, you have to keep torqueing the bolts till it fully compresses the gaskets. I do the whole sequence 5-6 times then go back the next day and do them again.
 

rbohm

Founding Member
Apr 12, 2002
6,698
550
204
tucson,az
Jan 21, 2007
#4
  • Jan 21, 2007
  • #4
one thing, you cannot use the factory ford torque pattern when installing an aftermarket intake. edelbrock and weiand both recommend that you torque the corner bolts first in a crisscross pattern, then you use the factory ford pattern(inside out). one more thing, i usually torque my intake bolts to 30ft/lbs to eliminate any leaks.
 
6

66nathen

New Member
Jan 10, 2007
27
0
0
Jan 21, 2007
#5
  • Jan 21, 2007
  • #5
thanks. yah i didnt hear that they did crappy jobs untill AFTER i had taken it there.
 
D

D.Hearne

New Member
Sep 29, 2000
11,730
6
0
south louisiana
Jan 22, 2007
#6
  • Jan 22, 2007
  • #6
rbohm said:
one thing, you cannot use the factory ford torque pattern when installing an aftermarket intake. edelbrock and weiand both recommend that you torque the corner bolts first in a crisscross pattern, then you use the factory ford pattern(inside out). one more thing, i usually torque my intake bolts to 30ft/lbs to eliminate any leaks.
Click to expand...

Even if they recommend torqing them on the corners first, I still wouldn't do that. That's a sure fire way to break the corners off. Other than some dip**** coming up with that, I cannot see why they would make a recommendation that way. I've torqued even an Edelborck from the center outward and had no problems.
 
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