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Help Figuring Motor Choice(Possible future turbo)?

  • Thread starter Thread starter jaygee15
  • Start date Start date Dec 14, 2025
J

jaygee15

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Dec 14, 2025
#1
  • Dec 14, 2025
  • #1
I own an 86 T Top with a 6 cylinder. Its a running driving project. I've built several cars before, but never a muscle car, and this is my first mustang fox body car, so I still have limited knowledge. Additionally, I'm not a motorhead so I've never built an engine, although I have dropped in a couple crate motors. These were simple, a rebuilt 390 into a 73 f100, and crate 350 into a 64 impala.

This will be my first muscle/performance build where I want high hp and performance as a priority goal. I do also want to reserve the option of possibly adding turbo down the road.

Considerations are 347, 351, 408 sbf... or possibly a coyote swap. I do want v8 sound, so turbo v6 is out.

I've heard(which i dont know if its true) that blueprint 302/347 blocks are much stronger than factory, and are built in same place as dart motors. If this is true than the 347 is an option. If its not true, I'd rather step into 351 blocks for stronger reliability, especially since I may add turbo some day.

Priorities are not only cost(trying to build this on a budget), but also ease of swap. I know there will be some custom things here and there that will need to be done, but one of the reasons I eliminated the godzilla motor is after research it seems theres just too much custom things along the way to a full complete swap. I would like this build to be as straight forward, plug and play, bolt in as possible, within reason. Now I don't mind leaning on a little more custom work to save a few thousand if that comes into play.

Given this info, and given todays practices and parts availability to make a coyote swap that much easier than 10 years or even 5 years ago, Would it be more straight forward, easier, and budget friendly to go coyote or sbf? I know I can get a gen 1 coyote with trans for 6k or so, and a blueprint long block or close to turnkey would be 6-9k and would still need trans(probably a tkx).

I like the the fact that the pushrod sbf is a much simpler easier to work on engine, but I like the modern reliability etc of the coyote.

I should note this will be a weekend driver, hit a car show every once in a while, and maybe hit a drag strip once in a long while car.

So give a pretty much newbie your advice. Thank you.
 

Noobz347

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#2
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What is your budget? This piece goes a long way to say what is possible.

Are you planning a used Coyote or crate?
 
J

jaygee15

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#3
  • Dec 14, 2025
  • #3
Noobz347 said:
What is your budget? This piece goes a long way to say what is possible.

Are you planning a used Coyote or crate?
Click to expand...
I'd like to keep it as low as possible, while meeting my needs. I guess engine I would like to keep at 7-10k, or with trans 9-12k. But I'm not sure exactly as I don't know which way I'm going.

Coyote would probably have to be low miles used to be competitive in cost.
 

Noobz347

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I would suggest an 8.2" deck crate motor from Summit or Blueprint and a Holley Terminator. Pick the stroke you want.

By the time you get that installed along with intake, bell, clutch, trans, LT headers, gears, subframe connectors, and probably a traction-lock rebuild, you will be there or exceed your budget.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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#5
  • Dec 14, 2025
  • #5
And still need brakes, wheels and tires
I think the push rod engine would be less work, less money and prolly less 'custom' work.
That said, if you're interested in adding a turbo I would go Coyote, or even a 4.6, they love boost,
Either way buy stock in tire company....
Remember the goal is to drive that junk
 
J

jaygee15

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Dec 14, 2025
#6
  • Dec 14, 2025
  • #6
General karthief said:
And still need brakes, wheels and tires
I think the push rod engine would be less work, less money and prolly less 'custom' work.
That said, if you're interested in adding a turbo I would go Coyote, or even a 4.6, they love boost,
Either way buy stock in tire company....
Remember the goal is to drive that junk
Click to expand...
Yea everything else is not included in this budget, Doing full restomod type build, drivetrain, suspension brakes, rear end, interior paint wheels everything. I'm just thinking for engine/trans I'd like to stay in this budget.
 
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AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes
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Just me but I but I would try and find an Explorer 302 and put a turbo on it and keep the power below 500 fwhp due to the block. I would pull the motor down to the short block and stud the heads as well as the mains in the block, put a new oil pump and pickup in it, and also a new timing chain and gears. The other option would be to or skip the boost and build a 408 stroker. Good heads and a solid roller cam with the 408 will get you to 600 hp real quick. If you are going to keep the car stock suspension and not mini rub it then that’s going to be a whole lot of fun and you are gonna play hell getting that to the ground. TKX is a great option for this setup.

The Coyote and trans packages you see from the places like MARS have manual transmissions that I do not believe will work in a Fox without some kind of shifter relocation kit and possibly some trans tunnel work. I’m not sure if the 6R80 or 10R80 automatics will fit either.
 

Noobz347

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  • #8
I looked into it a bit. Essentially, the cost of a Coyote swap begins where you indicated that your budget ends. Even if you get a low-mile used Coyote along with the entire accessory drive and everything on it.

It is almost a wash after oil pans and pumps and crossmembers, etc., that have to be swapped. All for 450ish HP? Way easier to do a Windsor.

I don't like @AeroCoupe 's suggestion because it sounds like you've got other plans for the car as well. Pass on the JY and get one of the new blocks with 4-bolts on 2, 3, and 4 mains. Blueprint and Summit blocks both, have these. From what I understand from some fellow SN researchers: You can buy a bare Summit block but not the Blueprint.

You should probably at least take a look at what they have to get a cost idea. Bare vs. Short vs. Long


Edit:
Oh... and if you plan to make big power, go with a Dart Sportsman (this is a 'Duh' IMO, but I though I should mention it).
 
J

jaygee15

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#9
  • Dec 15, 2025
  • #9
AeroCoupe said:
Just me but I but I would try and find an Explorer 302 and put a turbo on it and keep the power below 500 fwhp due to the block. I would pull the motor down to the short block and stud the heads as well as the mains in the block, put a new oil pump and pickup in it, and also a new timing chain and gears. The other option would be to or skip the boost and build a 408 stroker. Good heads and a solid roller cam with the 408 will get you to 600 hp real quick. If you are going to keep the car stock suspension and not mini rub it then that’s going to be a whole lot of fun and you are gonna play hell getting that to the ground. TKX is a great option for this setup.

The Coyote and trans packages you see from the places like MARS have manual transmissions that I do not believe will work in a Fox without some kind of shifter relocation kit and possibly some trans tunnel work. I’m not sure if the 6R80 or 10R80 automatics will fit either.
Click to expand...
Thank you, I forgot the coyote trans would be alot more work, in addition to all the other things to swap to a coyote. . So 408 seems to be just the easier, more straight forward option.

Other thing I forgot to mention is I want to make this as long term reliable as possible, which I know if I went 351 based(408 stroker), 500hp is not much to ask from it, and should be very dependable. I'm not sure what the cost jump would be to get to 600hp, but I would like it .

I am not planning to minitub, and just keep a pretty stock budget friendly performance suspension, lowered for a nice stance, and the brake/steering setup we discussed in my other thread. From my previous research, TKX was my planned trans to go with due to budget, as well as its ease of install and capability of handling up to 600hp.
Noobz347 said:
I looked into it a bit. Essentially, the cost of a Coyote swap begins where you indicated that your budget ends. Even if you get a low-mile used Coyote along with the entire accessory drive and everything on it.

It is almost a wash after oil pans and pumps and crossmembers, etc., that have to be swapped. All for 450ish HP? Way easier to do a Windsor.

I don't like @AeroCoupe 's suggestion because it sounds like you've got other plans for the car as well. Pass on the JY and get one of the new blocks with 4-bolts on 2, 3, and 4 mains. Blueprint and Summit blocks both, have these. From what I understand from some fellow SN researchers: You can buy a bare Summit block but not the Blueprint.

You should probably at least take a look at what they have to get a cost idea. Bare vs. Short vs. Long
Click to expand...
Thank you for the reply, I've pretty much crossed the coyote off the list for the reasons you mentioned and more.

Buying a bare block I dont think is a good choice for me, since I have never build an engine. I would consider possibly a short block, definitely a long block, and of course a turn key option.

I have been pricing some options from blueprint and atk, and a couple local engine builders. I know the BP use their own blocks which are strong, and built with quality in house parts. The BP have more power than the ATK but the ATK are better priced. My local is better priced and uses alot of high end well known parts, but they have mixed reviews on quality, length of wait etc.

Although I know this build is going to be alot of work, I am trying to make it as easy as possible, as straight forward as possible. So trying to skip options that involve alot of extra work.
 

Noobz347

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  • Dec 15, 2025
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jaygee15 said:
Buying a bare block I dont think is a good choice for me, since I have never build an engine. I would consider possibly a short block, definitely a long block, and of course a turn key option.
Click to expand...

I totally understand this. I did not build my DART stroker either.

Now, these types of threads usually get a lot of traction. Some of these guys have specific engine builders that they like. You should put your city and state in your profile so that if any of these are near you...
 
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AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes
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#11
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  • #11
450 fwhp:

Ford Small Block Compatible 408 c.i. Engine - 450 Horsepower - Long Block - Front Sump

BluePrint Engines 408 c.i. small block Ford style stroker crate engine - longblock. Includes 30 month / 50,000 warranty & BPE Dyno Promise.
blueprintengines.com

600+ fwhp

Liberator Dart 408/427 Longblock

Fordstrokers liberator 408 - 427 dart longblock
fordstrokers.com

Woody builds some niiiice motors.
 
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J

jaygee15

Member
Jun 6, 2017
45
9
18
Mesa, Arizona
Dec 15, 2025
#12
  • Dec 15, 2025
  • #12
Noobz347 said:
I totally understand this. I did not build my DART stroker either.

Now, these types of threads usually get a lot of traction. Some of these guys have specific engine builders that they like. You should put your city and state in your profile so that if any of these are near you...
Click to expand...
Thanks, I updated my info. I'm in Mesa, Az just outside Phoenix.
 
J

jaygee15

Member
Jun 6, 2017
45
9
18
Mesa, Arizona
Dec 15, 2025
#13
  • Dec 15, 2025
  • #13
AeroCoupe said:
450 fwhp:

Ford Small Block Compatible 408 c.i. Engine - 450 Horsepower - Long Block - Front Sump

BluePrint Engines 408 c.i. small block Ford style stroker crate engine - longblock. Includes 30 month / 50,000 warranty & BPE Dyno Promise.
blueprintengines.com

600+ fwhp

Liberator Dart 408/427 Longblock

Fordstrokers liberator 408 - 427 dart longblock
fordstrokers.com

Woody builds some niiiice motors.
Click to expand...
I've definitely looked at that BP motor several times. I think I've read it ends up being cheaper to buy as fully built as possible.

That 600hp would be badass.
 
J

Jarhead67

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Nov 24, 2018
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#14
  • Jan 3, 2026
  • #14
jaygee15 said:
I own an 86 T Top with a 6 cylinder. Its a running driving project. I've built several cars before, but never a muscle car, and this is my first mustang fox body car, so I still have limited knowledge. Additionally, I'm not a motorhead so I've never built an engine, although I have dropped in a couple crate motors. These were simple, a rebuilt 390 into a 73 f100, and crate 350 into a 64 impala.

This will be my first muscle/performance build where I want high hp and performance as a priority goal. I do also want to reserve the option of possibly adding turbo down the road.

Considerations are 347, 351, 408 sbf... or possibly a coyote swap. I do want v8 sound, so turbo v6 is out.

I've heard(which i dont know if its true) that blueprint 302/347 blocks are much stronger than factory, and are built in same place as dart motors. If this is true than the 347 is an option. If its not true, I'd rather step into 351 blocks for stronger reliability, especially since I may add turbo some day.

Priorities are not only cost(trying to build this on a budget), but also ease of swap. I know there will be some custom things here and there that will need to be done, but one of the reasons I eliminated the godzilla motor is after research it seems theres just too much custom things along the way to a full complete swap. I would like this build to be as straight forward, plug and play, bolt in as possible, within reason. Now I don't mind leaning on a little more custom work to save a few thousand if that comes into play.

Given this info, and given todays practices and parts availability to make a coyote swap that much easier than 10 years or even 5 years ago, Would it be more straight forward, easier, and budget friendly to go coyote or sbf? I know I can get a gen 1 coyote with trans for 6k or so, and a blueprint long block or close to turnkey would be 6-9k and would still need trans(probably a tkx).

I like the the fact that the pushrod sbf is a much simpler easier to work on engine, but I like the modern reliability etc of the coyote.

I should note this will be a weekend driver, hit a car show every once in a while, and maybe hit a drag strip once in a long while car.

So give a pretty much newbie your advice. Thank you.
Click to expand...
I had a 331 stroker built for my 86, if I had it to do over again I’d do a 351 swap.
It has 10:1 compression which prevents the use of boost. I could have gotten more hp with a Boosted stock rebuild 302 than the stroker.
 
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