so if i get the 5 lug conversion from latemodel, and i get sn95 spindles, is that all i need to make bullits work? stock size tires. where can i find spindles and what else will i have to do?
Not exactly.
The front parts from the latemodel kit are Mark 7 rotors. They will not work with SN95 spindles.
You need Sn95 spindles, rotors, calipers and lines. Out back you can use the basic 5-lug ranger axle and ranger 9" drums
The front parts from the latemodel kit are Mark 7 rotors. They will not work with SN95 spindles.
You need Sn95 spindles, rotors, calipers and lines. Out back you can use the basic 5-lug ranger axle and ranger 9" drums
www.ebay.com
I got complete 1995 spindles with rotors, calipers and brake lines off ebay
for little over $200.
Then get the SN95 ball joint swap kit from 50resto.com and have machine shop
swap them out on your control arms for you.
Excellent write up
http://www.stangnet.com/tech/lug.html
I got complete 1995 spindles with rotors, calipers and brake lines off ebay
for little over $200.
Then get the SN95 ball joint swap kit from 50resto.com and have machine shop
swap them out on your control arms for you.
Excellent write up
http://www.stangnet.com/tech/lug.html
lang williams
New Member
I got the pbr brakes an brackets off a 99 for $30, spindles for $50, braided steel brake lines for $75, new ceramic pads from autozone for $30. Shipping for the spindles was $22. I was just going to use a few washers as a spacer on the fox ball joint but ended up putting 99 control arms on it. I got 87-93 gt brake lines so I didn't need the adapter for the hard lines an used the pbr banjo bolts on them.
I used 94-95 spindles with PBR 99-04 calipers on my black coupe. I bought a union for the passenger side brake line for 1.37 at Advanced Auto. I also bought four 5/8" hardened washers for the ball joints. I put two on top of each spindle. I should have put 3 on each side, because my castle nut was still a tad low, but it is fine.
I used 96-04 spindles with PBR 99-04 calipers on my yellow coupe. I used the spacers on that car too. That is much cheaper than going with new ball joints and having a shop press them in. Plus having a shop press them in, you have to take the whole LCA off and mess with the coil springs...nobody wants to do that.
I used two left rear Ranger axles on my black coupe and all new drum brake equipment and components.
I used the whole 2001 axle on my yellow coupe, so everything is converted to disc.
I must say my yellow coupe stops much better with 4 wheel disc, but my black coupe still stops better than any stock fox.
+1 on ceramic front and rear pads. I get next to no brake dust on my chrome wheels. I went over 200 miles without a wash, and they didn't even look dirty. I went with Raybestos Ceramics. $44 for the front and $44 for the rear.
I used 96-04 spindles with PBR 99-04 calipers on my yellow coupe. I used the spacers on that car too. That is much cheaper than going with new ball joints and having a shop press them in. Plus having a shop press them in, you have to take the whole LCA off and mess with the coil springs...nobody wants to do that.
I used two left rear Ranger axles on my black coupe and all new drum brake equipment and components.
I used the whole 2001 axle on my yellow coupe, so everything is converted to disc.
I must say my yellow coupe stops much better with 4 wheel disc, but my black coupe still stops better than any stock fox.
+1 on ceramic front and rear pads. I get next to no brake dust on my chrome wheels. I went over 200 miles without a wash, and they didn't even look dirty. I went with Raybestos Ceramics. $44 for the front and $44 for the rear.
lang williams
New Member
You can get a ball joint press that looks like a big c clamp from harbor freight for $20 or so if you want to do your own ball joints. I used it an it works really well, you can change the ball joints right on the car. But the spacer set up is the cheapest route.
You can get a ball joint press that looks like a big c clamp from harbor freight for $20 or so if you want to do your own ball joints. I used it an it works really well, you can change the ball joints right on the car. But the spacer set up is the cheapest route.
True. I replaced the ball joint in my 97F150 4x4 with the MAC ball joint press. It did work great. I would recommend changing them if you can get that tool. You are right there, it ony takes a minute with the tool. Buy MOOG balljoints. My 81 handles beautiful with the MOOG stuff up front.
I did some balljoints for a customer, and she bought Ford ball joints....the new ones were just as loose as her 75K used ones. There was no difference. I made 175 bucks, but she didn't gain anything...but...I saved her 625 because the dealer wanted to charge her 800!!!!! eeek
www.ebay.com
I got complete 1995 spindles with rotors, calipers and brake lines off ebay
for little over $200.
Then get the SN95 ball joint swap kit from 50resto.com and have machine shop
swap them out on your control arms for you.
Excellent write up
http://www.stangnet.com/tech/lug.html
would this have new rotors? and how hard is it to change brake lines? also why do you say sn95 balljoints? do i need them to make the wheels work? eventually im going to get a tubular k member, so i was just gonna get trw lifetime replacement ones from advance auto when i start working there to hold me over.
Is the extra 8mm or whatever really an issue with the 96+ spindles? Do the newer parts cause any notable suspension/steering geometry changes? Is there any advantage to getting the 94-95 stuff over the 96+?
I'm looking at doing this soon myself...
I'm looking at doing this soon myself...
I have the 96+ spindles w/ a full Cobra setup on the front. It did push the front out and I had to raise my ride height to keep my 245/45/17's from rubbing the fenders. As far as alignment goes, the 96+ spindles wreak havok on your toe. The toe needs to be brought out like CRAZY just to roll the car.
The 94-95 stuff would keep the wheels tighter under the body. In retrospect, I wish I had them...I mean my spindles work, and I got a helluva deal for them on eBay...but I would have like the 8mm back.
On the balljoints I just got SN95 ones and rented a balljoint press form AutoZone for free + a $20 refundable deposit.
The 94-95 stuff would keep the wheels tighter under the body. In retrospect, I wish I had them...I mean my spindles work, and I got a helluva deal for them on eBay...but I would have like the 8mm back.
On the balljoints I just got SN95 ones and rented a balljoint press form AutoZone for free + a $20 refundable deposit.
I have the 96+ on my 81, I think I mentioned that above. Like Prime said, it does bring it out 8mm further than the 94-95 spindles do. So that is a total of increased track width of 13mm over a stock fox. My wheels are still inside my fenders and do not rub. Every car is different. I have the 94-95 spindles on my 91 notch, and they rub on the K-frame when I am under a full turn. It's weird.
Keep in mind, 94-95 spindles DO push the wheels out slightly over the Fox stuff. I beleive it's something like 4-5mm which is tiny, but add the 8mm that the 96+ spindles push the wheels out over the 94-95's and that's about 1 cm...which could make a difference.
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