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  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

help finding sn95 spindles, and 5 lug questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter fivespeedsteed
  • Start date Start date May 28, 2008

fivespeedsteed

20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 17, 2003
748
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Richmond, VA
May 28, 2008
#1
  • May 28, 2008
  • #1
so if i get the 5 lug conversion from latemodel, and i get sn95 spindles, is that all i need to make bullits work? stock size tires. where can i find spindles and what else will i have to do?
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,249
17,934
224
Massachusetts
May 28, 2008
#2
  • May 28, 2008
  • #2
Not exactly.

The front parts from the latemodel kit are Mark 7 rotors. They will not work with SN95 spindles.

You need Sn95 spindles, rotors, calipers and lines. Out back you can use the basic 5-lug ranger axle and ranger 9" drums
 

fivespeedsteed

20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 17, 2003
748
22
69
Richmond, VA
May 28, 2008
#3
  • May 28, 2008
  • #3
even the brakes i need? is this route cheaper than the kit?
 
R

r.barn5.0

New Member
May 21, 2006
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May 29, 2008
#4
  • May 29, 2008
  • #4
www.ebay.com

I got complete 1995 spindles with rotors, calipers and brake lines off ebay
for little over $200.

Then get the SN95 ball joint swap kit from 50resto.com and have machine shop
swap them out on your control arms for you.

Excellent write up
http://www.stangnet.com/tech/lug.html
 
L

lang williams

New Member
Jun 11, 2003
567
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cleveland, oh
May 29, 2008
#5
  • May 29, 2008
  • #5
I got the pbr brakes an brackets off a 99 for $30, spindles for $50, braided steel brake lines for $75, new ceramic pads from autozone for $30. Shipping for the spindles was $22. I was just going to use a few washers as a spacer on the fox ball joint but ended up putting 99 control arms on it. I got 87-93 gt brake lines so I didn't need the adapter for the hard lines an used the pbr banjo bolts on them.
 

SVT32VDOHC

waiting for the next hack atta
Founding Member
Nov 22, 2001
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May 29, 2008
#6
  • May 29, 2008
  • #6
I used 94-95 spindles with PBR 99-04 calipers on my black coupe. I bought a union for the passenger side brake line for 1.37 at Advanced Auto. I also bought four 5/8" hardened washers for the ball joints. I put two on top of each spindle. I should have put 3 on each side, because my castle nut was still a tad low, but it is fine.

I used 96-04 spindles with PBR 99-04 calipers on my yellow coupe. I used the spacers on that car too. That is much cheaper than going with new ball joints and having a shop press them in. Plus having a shop press them in, you have to take the whole LCA off and mess with the coil springs...nobody wants to do that.

I used two left rear Ranger axles on my black coupe and all new drum brake equipment and components.

I used the whole 2001 axle on my yellow coupe, so everything is converted to disc.

I must say my yellow coupe stops much better with 4 wheel disc, but my black coupe still stops better than any stock fox.

+1 on ceramic front and rear pads. I get next to no brake dust on my chrome wheels. I went over 200 miles without a wash, and they didn't even look dirty. I went with Raybestos Ceramics. $44 for the front and $44 for the rear.
 
L

lang williams

New Member
Jun 11, 2003
567
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0
cleveland, oh
May 29, 2008
#7
  • May 29, 2008
  • #7
You can get a ball joint press that looks like a big c clamp from harbor freight for $20 or so if you want to do your own ball joints. I used it an it works really well, you can change the ball joints right on the car. But the spacer set up is the cheapest route.
 

SVT32VDOHC

waiting for the next hack atta
Founding Member
Nov 22, 2001
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Motor City
May 29, 2008
#8
  • May 29, 2008
  • #8
lang williams said:
You can get a ball joint press that looks like a big c clamp from harbor freight for $20 or so if you want to do your own ball joints. I used it an it works really well, you can change the ball joints right on the car. But the spacer set up is the cheapest route.
Click to expand...

True. I replaced the ball joint in my 97F150 4x4 with the MAC ball joint press. It did work great. I would recommend changing them if you can get that tool. You are right there, it ony takes a minute with the tool. Buy MOOG balljoints. My 81 handles beautiful with the MOOG stuff up front.

I did some balljoints for a customer, and she bought Ford ball joints....the new ones were just as loose as her 75K used ones. There was no difference. I made 175 bucks, but she didn't gain anything...but...I saved her 625 because the dealer wanted to charge her 800!!!!! eeek
 

fivespeedsteed

20+ Year Stangneter
Oct 17, 2003
748
22
69
Richmond, VA
May 29, 2008
#9
  • May 29, 2008
  • #9
r.barn5.0 said:
www.ebay.com

I got complete 1995 spindles with rotors, calipers and brake lines off ebay
for little over $200.

Then get the SN95 ball joint swap kit from 50resto.com and have machine shop
swap them out on your control arms for you.

Excellent write up
http://www.stangnet.com/tech/lug.html
Click to expand...

would this have new rotors? and how hard is it to change brake lines? also why do you say sn95 balljoints? do i need them to make the wheels work? eventually im going to get a tubular k member, so i was just gonna get trw lifetime replacement ones from advance auto when i start working there to hold me over.
 

NIKwoaC

中國製造
15 Year Member
Oct 31, 2006
5,525
943
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Chengdu Province
May 29, 2008
#10
  • May 29, 2008
  • #10
Is the extra 8mm or whatever really an issue with the 96+ spindles? Do the newer parts cause any notable suspension/steering geometry changes? Is there any advantage to getting the 94-95 stuff over the 96+?

I'm looking at doing this soon myself...
 

Prime Lord

Crappy Default Title
Founding Member
Sep 19, 2000
2,137
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114
Denver-ish
May 30, 2008
#11
  • May 30, 2008
  • #11
I have the 96+ spindles w/ a full Cobra setup on the front. It did push the front out and I had to raise my ride height to keep my 245/45/17's from rubbing the fenders. As far as alignment goes, the 96+ spindles wreak havok on your toe. The toe needs to be brought out like CRAZY just to roll the car.

The 94-95 stuff would keep the wheels tighter under the body. In retrospect, I wish I had them...I mean my spindles work, and I got a helluva deal for them on eBay...but I would have like the 8mm back.

On the balljoints I just got SN95 ones and rented a balljoint press form AutoZone for free + a $20 refundable deposit.
 

SVT32VDOHC

waiting for the next hack atta
Founding Member
Nov 22, 2001
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Motor City
May 30, 2008
#12
  • May 30, 2008
  • #12
I have the 96+ on my 81, I think I mentioned that above. Like Prime said, it does bring it out 8mm further than the 94-95 spindles do. So that is a total of increased track width of 13mm over a stock fox. My wheels are still inside my fenders and do not rub. Every car is different. I have the 94-95 spindles on my 91 notch, and they rub on the K-frame when I am under a full turn. It's weird.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,249
17,934
224
Massachusetts
May 30, 2008
#13
  • May 30, 2008
  • #13
Keep in mind, 94-95 spindles DO push the wheels out slightly over the Fox stuff. I beleive it's something like 4-5mm which is tiny, but add the 8mm that the 96+ spindles push the wheels out over the 94-95's and that's about 1 cm...which could make a difference.
 
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