Help I want to put this T5 in our Cobra II


will be trying this sex one when I can find it
Mod Dude
Mar 5, 2019
I finally found a T5 after looking for over a year.
This is the second one in that time frame. The first one sold minutes before I arrived 8 months ago.
Nothing in the local junkyards. They get rid of anything 10 yrs or older due to space constraints.

So I just bought it.
I think its 1999 v6
I see it has the electric speedo. Will I have to replace that shaft too? Housing? Options?

After digging through lots of old posts

Jrichker has always posted good stuff on this endlessly repeating T5 topic variations here on stang net.
So thank you to Stangnet's Favorite Tool (again)
But the identifier chart don't go to 99

Useless main case number is 13-52-065-922

Teeth don't look chipped but Tag is missing so its been apart.
Turns over nice
Hope I didn't waste my $300 on this.
I have a fox bell housing as an option but not sure how it will fit in our Mutt2,
and would need a correct replacement input shaft?

The input shaft for 94-200x is about 11/16" longer that the pre 94 T5.
You need an input shaft from a T5 made before 1994 with the same tooth count as the 2000 V6 T5.
See for more information - check out the "Light Duty" group, since TTC makes monster transmissions for big trucks as well as passenger cars.

T5 identifier information.

On the tail shaft of the transmission, there will be a stamped aluminum tag. The tag will have a number on it that you can cross reference to the chart below. There is no other way to find out what type of T5 it is without disassembling it. All the rest of the numbers on the outside of the T5 case are part numbers which are not unique to any particular T5 model.

Remember that 94 - 97 T5's have a longer input shaft (about 11/16” longer) and can only be used with a 94-95 bell housing unless you modify or replace the input shaft.

T5's used with a 4 cylinder have a 3.93 first gear, reduced torque ratings and an input shaft pilot diameter that is smaller that the T5 used for V6 & V8 engines. The pilot diameter is .59" compared to the .668" used on V6 & V8 T5's. It requires a different pilot bearing to be used with a V6 or V8. The pilot bearing you need is for a Ford Ranger diesel from AutoZone part #14672

I liked this post from broncojunkie I found.

Didn't know the v6 bell is an option but how will it fit in our Mustang II? The fork location looks to hang down low so maybe?

You can use a T5 from a 99-04 v6 mustang and they're rated the same strength as the later v8 fox body T5 (300 ft-lb). If you want to keep the fox bellhousing, the input shaft and retainer will need to be changed. Although, you can use the v6 bellhousing and it will give you an 11" clutch (as opposed to the 10.5" clutch from the v8 fox body). You would have to go with an f150 flywheel, which are usually a little cheaper. They're available in 28 or 50 oz. The 99-04 v6 flywheel and pressure plate won't work, but the clutch disc is the same for the f150 and v6 mustang. There are a few more performance clutch disc options for the mustang.


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You need to use the number from the tag not the one on the case. On my new one the numbers are different.


  • T5 Tranny ID Numbers.pdf
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You will have so much fun with the T5 when it's installed :nice:
If you can get to a sn95 bellhousing your shifter hole will fit a little bit better. The fork position will also be different:
I think I read in this forum that the sn95 bell is more suitable for the MII.
I will install my downpipes in the next days and will make pictures for you.
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I just saw that you have a 3.8 bellhousing. It seems to have the same fork position as the 5.0 sn95 bellhousing.
I just found this:
Your running an 28 oz balancing with your 289, so the 11'' clutch that suits the 164 tooth flywheel should be available?!
I would test fit the 3.8 bellhousing to the engine put a starter in and see if there is enough clearance, because the 3.8 bellhousing is wider.
You still have the stock exhaust manifold and you want to keep them?
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You still have the stock exhaust manifold and you want to keep them?

No, I want custom headers but am going settle for what is available.

I would test fit the 3.8 bellhousing to the engine put a starter in and see

3.8 starter? Different than II starter right?

What happens with 3.8 bell usage and pilot bushing?

I'm off to read the annuls of Stang Net Past.:chin
3.8 starter? Different than II starter right?

What happens with 3.8 bell usage and pilot bushing?
3.8 starter is a SBF starter that fits 164 tooth flywheel, I guess. They a different regarding where the ring gear is located. Hence 164 starter sits deeper inside the bellhousing:

Pilot bushing I would use the fox body 5.0 HO needle bearing. The input shaft of the V6 transmission is the same as from the V8.
As far as i know all V6 Input shafts have the same length as the 5.0 sn95 long input shaft. So your transmission will sits further back.

Another stupid question: did you transmission and bell housing come from the same car? Than you know for sure that the input shaft length fits the bell housing.

I was at the same point as you are: I had a V6 transmission but no bell housing I was happy to get a sn95 5.0 bell housing because there is 100% clear what flywheel, clutch and clutch fork fits and they are easy to get (cheap)... I had luck that a friend did know a guy who knows a guy who had a 5.0 sn95 bell housing...
If you can find a sn95 5.0 bell housing that is priced okay, I would try to get it. I think you can than use your existing starter.
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Another stupid question: did you transmission and bell housing come from the same car?
Not a stupid question, came from same craigs list add
I got the trans, flywheel/clutch, and bell but no block plate or shifter

3.8 starter is a SBF starter that fits 164 tooth flywheel, I guess.

I thought the Mutt2 v8 starter had a 9 tooth gear and other SBF v8s had 11 tooth gear?

Been trying to understand So correct me If I'm wrong.
If i use the V6 bell = I dont have to change input shaft on T5,
but won't be able to use new the T5trans cross member from C.A.R. as trans is another 11/16" back.

If I go with the Fox bell, I have to buy/use shorter input shaft but can use T5trans crossmember I already bought.

But, Which of these combos will use the stock drive shaft?

So I just looked at mine. It has a two wire harness out of the top of the cover. It is supposed to be for a neutral safety switch used in cars with cruise control. Not mine but would be a cool option in the future. If used in a vintage car then the harness may be removed.
I'm not sure but I think the reverse lock out switch was on the 6 speed tranny's?
What is a reverse lock out switch? The switch for reverse light? Or that you cant shift in reverse? last one is not available on T5s.

3.8 Bellhousing:
will fit your transmission and engine block, but will put your transmission mount 11/16 more backwards than a fox bell.

should have the right height to get the right angle. Can you elongate the holes for the transmission mount about 11/16? I would also ask CAR about their opinion.

the existing flywheel will fit physically to the crank (the internet says), but there is no info about the imbalance out there. For your 289 you need 28 oz of imbalance. You could either check it at a machine shop, but then it is still not clear if the imbalance is in the right phase. Or you need a 164 flywheel with 28oz imbalance.

in any case: get a new one that fits. For the 164 flywheel it is a 11' clutch.

Clutch fork:
3.8 and 5.0 sn95 are the same. sn95 can also be used for fox bellhousings.

needs to be shortened with any combo, because the T5 is longer than the c4 even, with the shorter fox bellhousing it will not fit. In my case the drive shaft fits, because the engine sits more upfront (DIY engine mounts).

not sure if the MII will fit... so you need a new one in any case?!

I think you have two options depending on the bellhousing (without buying a different input shaft, which will not help you because the driveshaft needs to be shortened anyway):

SN95 5.0 bellhousing: get the bellhousing and a new 156 flywheel with 28 imbalance and a 10' clutch

SN95 3.8 bellhousing: get 164 flywheel with 28 imbalance and a 11' clutch (for this option I did found back than only very expensive flywheels, which were also heavier than the 156)

Because I have good experience with this valeo clutch I have this package on my list ebay because the flywheel comes with both weights 28oz and 50oz. But only because my spare engine is a 289 with 28 oz and now i'm running a newer 5.0 with 50 oz. the flywheels I ordered before where all from LUK. With the 164 flywheel I wasn't sure which one is the right one...
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Right on Extra-Stout

Lots of good answers thank you.

What is a reverse lock out switch?
neutral safety switch

Sorry guys I was dazed and confused from T5 info overload.

So you hooking up the neutral safety switch in your cars?

So the plan so far says ;

use 3.8v6 bell
no need replace input shaft.
modify already purchased new T5 crossmember

I need (still a big list);

164 block plate, I might have a acceptable one in the pile.
164 28oz flywheel
11 inch clutch kit
SN95 clutch fork
Tail housing with speedo gear location
I Found a retro fit kit for the 99 trans tail shaft for the plastic speedometer drive

What does all this do to the console?
What size/ style is your shifters?
The driveshaft yoke will work with the T5, you'll just need to have the driveshaft shortened.

I'm using a stock T5 shifter and a stock II shifter boot.

The console will move forward a little and you'll most likely have to trim the shifter hole for it to work. To help with the reach, I bent the shifter back a little more than it originally was.
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LILCBRA is right, I would use your existing driveshaft and have it shortened. Let them install new U-joints and let them do a balancing.
About the speedo:
There is also a kit from electronic to mechanical speedo: click
Or you get a speedometer with electronic input and a nice tacho and swap them into your instrument cluster.
And before you install your transmission check for the tailshaft bushing to yoke clearance! If there is any play, install a new bushing if the play is still there get a new yoke. By the way this is one of the most forgotten places to look at, when you have vibration in the car...
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By the way you need a clutch pedal and a way to actuate the clutch. Either clutch cable or hydraulic setup.
Seems that the whole setup is useless without such a pedal ;)
The Mustang II has a adjuster tube installed at the firewall (not available). The SN95 is adjustable at the fork. Because the SN95 parts are more easy to come by, I was thinking back than about this parts: click
you will not need this quadrant called part. this set is an upgrade regarding the adjustability because there is this alu adjuster that sits on the firewall with additional adjustment possibility (similar to the adjuster tube from the MustangII).
I guess this is something that will work. especially the lower part should fit your bellhousing and clutch fork. at the firewall and clutch pedal you need perhaps to be creative.
I did go the hydraulic setup way with some cheap european parts (to be precise: russian parts; yes there are parts from Lada, VW, BMW and Porsche in my car).
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By the way you need a clutch pedal

Already put in the car while doing brakes.


a kit from electronic to mechanical speedo:

Didn't see a price on that to compare to used tail housing.
Was looking at this one for the chevy S-15 tail shaft housing conversion. Not sure it works for Ford tail housing.


I'm using a stock T5 shifter and a stock II shifter boot.

What cable are you using?

(to be precise: russian parts; yes there are parts from Lada, VW, BMW and Porsche in my car).

I love the alternate view you have on parts, always interesting.

Wasn't there a fried chicken commercial about parts is parts?
found it

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