Help I want to put this T5 in our Cobra II

[extra_stout]

I love the alternate view you have on parts, always interesting.

I played a lot with lego, when I was a kid.

 

[LILCBRA]

I'm using a stock replacement clutch cable. My car was an original 302 4 speed to begin with, but the original cable ended up getting burned through at the headers. I'm not sure if they're available anymore, but it seems I picked the replacement up from Advance Auto years ago, they had to order it at that time.

 

[extra_stout]

You will also need this adjuster tube:

This is not reproduced, sadly. But perhaps you can fabricate something, if you get the original cable.

 

[LILCBRA]

Someone was looking to make a steel replacement a while back, but I don't remember who nor if they ever actually started producing them. I think the best bet would be Classic Auto Reproductions, they may at least have a contact?

 

[Enzio]

Here's one from MDL

74-78 Mustang Adjustable Clutch Cable | Modern Driveline

74-78 Mustang Adjustable Clutch Cable. Measuring 53 inches long for 'pull-style' clutch forks only. Modern Driveline is here to serve you.

www.moderndriveline.com

 

[extra_stout]

If MDL is just a acable without the firewall mount, this would be a much cheaper alternative:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...1134571,transmission-manual,clutch+cable,1972

And this are the right pilot bushings (with the needed outsert):
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...transmission-manual,clutch+pilot+bearing,1964

 

[Enzio]

I like that one better, especially the price. I may need to buy one to have as a spare.

 

[extra_stout]

Or all you guys switch to hydraulic clutch setup:
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335821607&icep_item=223069793795

Seems that shipping would be possible, they say world wide
But that are for sure no bolt-on parts...
And buy two sets because russian quality.

 

[Enzio]

Now you got me wondering...the old mII.net used to have a build thread on someone who switched to hydralic. Geez I wish the tech from there was available.

 

[extra_stout]

There is no need to swap to hydraulic clutch. It was only cheaper for me than ordering parts with high shipping costs which I'm not sure if they fit. It is also tight beside the brake cylinder (there are some pics in my build thread). I was not able to find that adjuster tube... you have it, the cable clutch works, you will use the stock MII bellhousing... so there is no reason for this modification.
You can try here to find the build thread: https://web.archive.org/web/20170426022733/http://mustangii.net/

 

[2Blue2]

I look at the adjuster tube and think it won't get along with brake booster?

I need to go out and stare at car some more.

 

[2Blue2]

And buy two sets because russian quality.

The price is right even when buying two sets.

 

[2Blue2]

I was thinking of installing a 3.80 rear gear. How does that get along with the v6-T5- gear ratios?
Maybe I should leave the 3.00 in it?

 

[extra_stout]

For the start leave the 3.0 as it is! Get the T5 done and enjoy it before starting another construction area...
I go with 2.79 (was laying around) but I have the stock tire diameter 195/50R15 (equal to 185/70R13). The 2.79 ratio with 195/50R15 is equal to a 3.15 ratio with an 225/60R15 tire (which I run on my 66 coupe, which is equal to the typical fox body tire diameter).
What rear tires size are you running?

 

[LILCBRA]

I converted an auto to manual years ago. I used the stock setup and was able to find an adjustment sleeve at a scrap yard. Chance of that now is real slim, but what I found was that the auto car already had the reinforcing bracket spot welded in place. You'll need to drill 3 holes once you locate the sleeve, 2 clearance holes for the mounting bolts/studs, and a larger hole for the cable. If memory serves, that hole is 1 inch, but you'll use the existing bracket as your guide. All you'll really need is a properly sized hole saw that fits that existing hole and you're good.

And I agree with @extra_stout for now. I'd say get your swap taken care of first, then go after the rear gears. I use 3.55s and @Enzio will be as well, I think they offer the best all around "feel." If you don't mind a little higher RPM at highway speeds, I think a 3.80 would work just fine too. Honestly, in the scheme of things, it's not a whole lot different than 3.55.

 

[extra_stout]

LILCBRA you running a bigger diameter tire, then the 3.55 is okay. Enzio has a smaller diameter tire than you (but bigger than stock), but the T5Z with 2.95 first gear, then the 3.55 is also okay. Most of the other T5s (including the V6) have a 3.35 first gear.
Another thing is you are running both upgraded engines and can turn them over 6000RPM and both cars have or will have a limited slip diff.
The rear gear ratio depends IMO strongly on the powerband of the engine, tire diameter, first gear ratio and if diff is limited slip or not. A stock 289 which shifts with stock C4 at around 5000 RPM would not love to have to much rear gear.
I would do it like that: T5 swap, engine upgrades, rear end upgrades. And I learned the hard way on this car: the bottleneck for the engine is the exhaust (because of the tight space in the firewall area and at the rear axle), which will limit RPM level the most.

The best bang for the buck setup without exhaust clearance issues on the MII with a 289/302 is the rotsun setup from roadkill:

 

[LILCBRA]

Yep, that's why I say 3.55 feels like the best all around gear. I went from 245/50-13 to 265/50-15 with the 3.55 gear set. With my T5, 3.55s, and the 15" tire the car feels pretty natural. Before with the 13s, it still felt pretty natural but the RPMs were higher at the same highway speeds. If I had to guess, without looking up a calculator or doing any math, a 3.80 gear with my current setup would act similarly to the 3.55 with the 13" tires. A 3.80 with 13s would most likely act like I had 4.11s in my current setup. I'd discourage anything above a 3.80 for a street driven car. I went for gusto when I swapped tire sizes and went with a 4.56. A steep gear like that renders 1st gear all but useless and negates the benefits of 5th gear. Just my opinion based on my experience.

 

[2Blue2]

Thanks guys , good stuff
I love the Rotsun

but what I found was that the auto car already had the reinforcing bracket spot welded in place.

Yuppers, It looks like it. And it looks to clear the booster too.

 

[IICrew]

I bought my clutch cable recently from Amazon. It's Pioneer brand CA 305. It fits better then the stock one. Factory cable was tight against the master cylinder but the new one runs further into engine bay and has more room near the header.

I had to cut 2/3 of the spring off otherwise it fits perfect.

Factory Cable from original 4 speed car.

New Cable. Mounts fit perfectly into existing hole.

 

[IICrew]

I have a 1990 v8 t5. I believe its the 3.35 1st gear. I am still running the stock 3.40 rear gears. 225/60/14 tires. I am leaning towards a rear gear closer 3.0 once the time comes. I am shifting out of first too fast. I cruise at 1800 rpm at 55mph. Speedo is broken so not exact. Vibrations have prevented me going faster so far. I am after a nimble cruiser and think I am geared too high as is.

As stated above. Leave that alone until you drive it. I originally figured I would want at least a 3.55 but now think the other way is better for this t5.