Help installing Sun Super tach

19stang66

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Apr 16, 2003
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So I returned the ugly Summit brand tach I initially bought and got the Sunpro Sun super tach II. Man I love this thing! It looks sooo good with the rest of my gauges.

So anyways I need help with some of the wiring. In the directions it says to hook the red wire up to "any vehicle harness wire which is energized with battery voltage ONLY when the ignition key is in the ON (RUN position, NOT OFF or ACCESSORIES)." So what wire do I need to splice into? They give you these cool red connector things that i've never used before (See pics).

I also don't know where to hook up the white wire (for lighting). The instructions say "Connect the white wire to the instrument panel lighting circuit or any lead that is controlled by the instrument panel dimmer switch." They show using the red connector thing for this one too. (See pic) So what wire do I need to splice into for lighting?

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This probably isn't going to be super helpful, but I just installed pretty much the same tach in my car.

For now, I just put the wires behind fuses in the fuse box (my radio is wired the same way for now). Eventually, when I rewire the whole car, I'll figure out how to permanantly wire them into the fuse box so it's not so jury-rigged.

And I'd never seen those connectors before either so I mentioned them to my dad. He said to throw them away and do NOT use them. They're really bad about slicing right through wires.

-Chelle
 
I use the wire that goes to the light for the console. It's easy to get at. Of course, my tach was mounted in front of the shifter. You could also pull your guage cluster and tap into any of the illuminating bulbs' pigtail.

Those tap splices are really handy to have around. I've always kept a few in my tool box.
 
So long as the wire isn't too large they will only cut through the insulation. I went up and reread her post and I know where her dad is coming from. I wouldn't, for example, try to power a set of driving lights with them.

The only other alternative is to completely cut and splice using insulated spade connectors, but the wiring starts to look complicated and messy.
 
just separates the insulation, and makes contact with the wire. open the connectors, and you will see how simple it is. i have not had any problems with those connectors when installed inside the car. outside, and you may have some corrosion issues.


how much was that tach? i am too lazy to search for it right now.
 
Just put the butt end of the new wire (don't strip the end) into the inboard side untill it hits the stop and slip the wire you tapping from into the outboard slot. Then squeeze the blade all the way down with a pair of pliers and close the clip over top. You can pry them right open to see the see the inside if you think that will help figure how they work.
 
starter switch? Do you mean ignition switch? Would that work guys? Because I cant find an ignition switch wire that works. They just dim my lights and get my red wire really hot on the voltmeter. What fuse on the fuse box could I use for the + wire on the tach? Can I use the ints. light fuse for the white wire?
 
Throw those blue "Skotch-locks in the garbage"

First you don't need to pierce any wire in a '66. Second, that is a "hack" way of doing things. Put's you on the same scale as a U-Haul yard boy hooking up a trailer.
In your year car, the Pink resistor wire plugs into the red lead with a bullet connector. This should be sitting right above the driver side courtesy light. make your self up a short "Y" with solder type bullit connectors, so that you now have a tap for your key on power source.
All the rest of the taps are readily available under the dash. You will need large nose male bullits for these.

BTW: Why I am so dead set against the skotch-locks is three fold. first, as soon as you pass current through dissimilar metals that are touching you set up electrolysis, which is the begining stages of corrosion, add that to the fact that these connectors are not sealed. Second, They look hack to any professional. Lastly, if you decide later that you want to remove this, you'll have an open in the insulation, and the possibility that you have cut into the strands, reducing your current carrying capability.
But then I'm pretty anal when it comes to electrical after years of dealing with Lucas Electrics. :D

Good luck,

Scott
 
I dont understand what you mean by making a "Y" with the bullet connectors. Could you find me a picture or drawing or something? I'm not the greatest when it comes to electrical stuff. I just need to be shown how to do it.
 
No problem, everyone has to learn somehow

I don't have a picture so hopefully I can explain it.
What you want to do is take two pieces of wire about 2" long each.
Get two female bullet connectors (by the way thanks for the spelling correction. See we all learn something!), and one male bullet connector. I prefer solder type connectors, and shrink wrap, but if you aren't comfortable crimp connectors will suffice until you learn some good soldering skills.
You want one end of each wire going into the one male bullet connector. The other two ends will each have a female bullet connector. If you hold up what you've just made, with the male bullet connector at the bottom, and the two female connectors at the top, it will look like a "Y" with a real short base leg (the connector), and two long arms (the wires).

Disconnect the pink wire from the red wire under the dash. Connect the male bullet into the red wire's female bullet. Connect the pink wire to either of the open female bullet connectors on that beautiful "Y" connector you made. Connect the other open female bullet to your tach wire requiring Key on power.

BTW: in that same area is a light blue wire with a red stripe that has a three headed female tap. This is your dash light accessory tap, so the hot lead for your tach light plugs in there.

HTH,

Scott