Help. Intake manifold swap gone bad.

gcomfx.com · Apr 27, 2007

I agree with Bill... sounds like the lower intake didn't seal up.

AznStanger3v · Apr 27, 2007

did you use those ****ty ass cork gaskets on the wall of china?? those things are straight ****. you need to run a fat bead of silicon.

94superstang · Apr 27, 2007

so i have to remove the intake and reinstall new gaskets? I used fel pro gaskets and i used the to rubber ones for the front and rear.

blksn955.o · Apr 27, 2007

with a 160 stat your fans are prob. out of sync with the stat. When I went to a 190 stat the fans caused an overheating issue while driving around town. I ran a man. fan switch as a temp fix.

When I got the tweecer I re-did the fan settings for the 190 and no issues at all. I ran the stock settings on another tune and the temps started to go up almost instantly (slowly though) when I went to that tune. Switch it back to the modded fan settings tune and temps drop almost instantly...I have not been able to get the temps over 192-195 EVER with the proper fan settings.

Burp that baby first though...and look for leaks. I ran the rubber front/rear gaskets without any problems several times.

Bosko5.0 · Apr 27, 2007

get a mirror it will help you see what you dont see.

bill302 · Apr 27, 2007

94superstang said:
so i have to remove the intake and reinstall new gaskets? I used fel pro gaskets and i used the to rubber ones for the front and rear.

thats what i would do remove the lower intake and inspect...especially if you know its leaking at the back. you used the same gaskets as i did but mine sealed fine the felpro gaskets are good gaskets. did you use high heat sealant where the gasket meets the rubber seals at all 4 corners this is a must to prevent leaks??? the problem may also be that the meeting surfaces may not have been cleaned properly or the gasket may have slipped out of place when installing.....you will see what happened when you remove the lower.... also did you torque the lower in the sequence as listed in diagram below...and you have a 3 steps when you torque the bolts tighten all bolts in the sequence listed in the picture below to 8 ft. lbs then you start over and tighten all bolts in sequence to 16 ft. lbs and the final step you tighten all bolts again in sequence to 23-25 ft.lbs.... these steps seals the intake evenly if this is not done properly it can also cause a leak.....

94superstang · Apr 27, 2007

I'm gonna work on it tommorow trying all the methods everyone has told me. To see if it helps. Wow you guys are the best. All of the info you all have given me has helped soo much. Thanks to all of you. I'll let you all know how it goes tommorow.

bill302 · Apr 27, 2007

you need to get a repair manual....they contain alot of good info....like stated within this thread...you can get one for about $20 at a local autoparts store....i would also reccommend getting 12 new lower bolts carry one of the old bolts to a hardware store and have them get you some new ones ensure they are grade 8 the old bolts prolly streched one of mine was streched and broke i had to remove my lower and remove the broke bolt and buy new gaskets...its well worth it to get new bolts mine cost $4 for the 12 new bolts...

94superstang · Apr 29, 2007

sounds good I'm gonna remove it and re install it to try and fix the problem. Do you thinki should use therubber gaskets in the front and rear of the intake. People are telling me to just use a fat bead of rtv silicon.

bill302 · Apr 29, 2007

i would use the rubber gaskets....and read the instructions that come with the gaskets and apply high heat silicone to the corners of the rubber seals as instructed in the instruction sheet.

94superstang · Apr 29, 2007

After doing some troble shooting I have found the culprete from the leak. It was a heater hose that had a tiny hole in it. I replaced the hose and drove it around the block. The car is still running hotter that it used to. The neddle used to sit towards the lower part of the gauge and now it sit past the middle range. While i was driving i looked at the water gauge and it bounced from the middle to a lower temp than a second latter bounced back. It did that twice. I got home and checked the coolant. The level didn't drop at all and the upper heater hose was firm and hot. Counld it be something else just happened to break at the same time as the install? I just got the car and I think it was sitting for a while and i don't think the guy changed the coolant cause it looks a little rusty. Do you think it might be the water pump?

True 5.0 · Apr 30, 2007

Keep in mind the stock gauges are prone to error especially if there isn't a good body to battery ground. My gauges were giving me all kinds of bad readings including extremely high temps until I replaced my corroded body grounding strap.

JJ95GTID · Apr 30, 2007

When you mentioned the temp gauge needle bounce it leads me to believe there is still air pockets on the surfaces of the coolant ports.

Get a bottle or two of RedLine WaterWetter. It will de-gas the coolant ports and you will run cooler. I have used the WW for 4 years now with no complaints at all.

99FiveOh · Apr 30, 2007

People are always blaming the gauge, yes they aren't accurate but they are still a basis to go by. It was running on the N before, now it's M or O, which means it's running uncomfortably hot for him.

Here's what I'm gathering from the symptoms. There is air trapped in the system still. What I do is take the radiator cap off and let the car idle for a long time, maybe 30 minutes, the whole time I have water/coolant ready to go in. I've seen the system burp off some air 10 minutes after the last one, so you can't just let it burp for a minute and all is well.

When you see the gauge rapidly change, that's because air pockets are passing by the sender. Air can get much hotter than water so these pockets get superheated and keep expanding, which is why hoses get hard. I'd say you still have air in the system.

gcomfx.com · Apr 30, 2007

The_Mustang said:
What I do is take the radiator cap off and let the car idle for a long time, maybe 30 minutes, the whole time I have water/coolant ready to go in. I've seen the system burp off some air 10 minutes after the last one, so you can't just let it burp for a minute and all is well.

Just wanting to make sure we keep safety in mind. Not everyone is a veteran. Make sure you take the cap off when the car is COLD, then start it.

94superstang · Apr 30, 2007

I tryed leaving the cap off and the coolent keep coming out of the radiator is this normal? There are bubbles in the radiator coming and poping at a constant rate. I will try and use the water wetter today. When i turned on the ac the high speed fan turns on and it stays at the O position. With out it on it climbs to alsmolt the A point than the high speed fan turns on and if drops to the M position. Than the car heats up again and the fan turns on. So for sure its not the intake gasket leaking air. I was going to change the intake gasket tommorow. But if its fine i don't want to mess with it. You guys have been such great help.

99FiveOh · Apr 30, 2007

When you turn your A/C on, the fan goes to high speed until you shut the A/C off. That would indicate that you indeed have a fan problem. Also, since you went so far down with your thermostat, your stat and fan are no longer syncronized with eachother. I believe (my opinion here) that the lowest you can go without tuning the fan parameters is 180 degreess. Mine still would over heat until I got a tune, now it stays put pretty much all the time.

Find the info to wire up your fan to a switch and you'll be all set!

94superstang · Apr 30, 2007

ok i'll change the thermostat. Should i go with a 180 or should i just put a stock 192. I threw away the old one cause it was the original one.

95Vert · Apr 30, 2007

The "point" of the thermo is pointing towards the radiator right? Just a dumb question.

99FiveOh · Apr 30, 2007

i run a 180 without any issues (usually)..

Help. Intake manifold swap gone bad.

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